90 xj no start
 

I know there are a lot of thread about no starts but they have not helped me so here is what i have 90 xj with the 4.0 crank no start just bought it the other day put a head gasket on it (was running when i did the head) now have a crank no start checked for unplugged wires dont see any checked for spark i have spark checked for fuel i have fuel check the compression its at 93pis so thats good. got online and saw A LOT of people say the crank sensor and to unplug for five min and plug it back in. did that not start so i replaced it still no start looked at the neutral safety switch it was dead on to the hanyes book (but rev. lights dont work but i dont know if they did before due to the fact i just bought it had it for an hour and started taking the head off) so i turned the distributor 180 witch got ride of what i belived to be back fire (after sitting for a while and try and start it i hear a little pop like noise) but now after a few cranks it acts like the bat is dead (witch it is not and its on a charger and can do that over and over and with it actting like its dead) any ideas all i am doing now is throwing money at it and thats not working either

I can't read this crap.

Throwing money isn't usually helpful. If you could edit this into a format that someone can read that would be really helpful.

http://gifling.com/galleries/gifs1/c...of-his-car.gif

Get your battery load tested at an autoparts store. ALWAYS start simple.

You read all that?

Bro I'm studying to be a mechanic, might as well get used to it now lol.

I woulda fired a Service Advisor that wrote up an RO like that!!

Oh god don't get me started on service advisers, I already hate them. Dunno if you have me on facebook but I had a run in with one recently. lol, and I was more leaning to talking to the customer if I ended up in some small time shop where I'm the adviser and the mechanic.

Also, get yer tail over here: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/eng...gaging-177711/
Got a tricky one

I like the advisor/tech idea.

What he said. Simply simplify. Take a deep breath and poke a LITTLE smot and clean the contacts on your starter solenoid. Clean everything. And don't forget all Vacuum lines. I had a Chrysler with one vac line disconnected, made the car not turn over every time... Don't forget to swear and kick it, then apologize and give sweet fake promises. "Frankie says relax"

The jeep isnt going to start with the dist 180 off. Put cyl 1 at tdc on compression stroke, put your dist in with the rotor pointing just before the number 1 post on the cap, try again.

See that you have .3+ AC volts directly from your CPS, as described in Cruisers writings found in my sig. Power to the fuel pump goes from the rear of the ceramic resistor there on the inner fender by the air cleaner, straight to the pump. The book is wrong. #1 on the dizy is at 5:00 viewed from the side. 153624, clockwise.

There is a" tire type", Schrader valve on the fuel rail. The pump normally just runs a few seconds then stops until it starts. If you depress the dealie there it should spurt fuel into the rag you are holding there.

:cheers::2guns::thumbup1:

Setting Your 4.0 at #1 TDC
　
With #1 spark plug removed, turn the engine over clockwise using the 3/4" front crankshaft bolt. You will see the degree marks on your front cover. Mark the 0 with chalk or white-out.You will see the timing mark on the balancer. Mark it with chalk or white-out. While turning the engine over, put your finger/thumb over #1 spark plug hole. As the mark on the balancer approaches the marks on the front cover, if you are coming up on #1 TDC, pressure in the cylinder will push on your finger. If there's no pressure, you're at #6 TDC and need to crank the engine over until you see the marks coming together and you get pressure. Set the mark on the balancer to the 0 mark on the front cover.





Remove the distributor cap and cut a "window" into the side of the distributor cap at the #1 spark plug wire post . The "window" should be large enough to allow easy visual inspection of the position of the distributor rotor at the #1 spark plug wire post. Reinstall the distributor cap.

Install a ¾" wrench or socket onto the vibration damper retaining bolt. Rotate the engine in a clockwise direction until the #1 cylinder is at top dead center. Align the timing mark on the vibration damper with the "0" degree mark on the front cover timing scale. The tip of the distributor rotor should be near the #1 spark plug wire post.

Disconnect the distributor electrical connection. Remove the distributor holddown clamp, holddown bolt and distributor. Remove the distributor cap and rotor.

Place the distributor housing upside down in a soft jaw vise. Scribe a line 1/2 inch from the end of the distributor locating tab. Cut the distributor locating tab at the scribed line with a saw.

Remove any burrs and metal filings from the distributor. Reinstall rotor.

If necessary, using a flat blade screwdriver, turn the oil pump gear drive shaft until the slot is slightly past the 11 o'clock position. The oil pump gear drive shaft is accessible through the distributor mounting bore in the engine block.

Visually align the modified locating tab area of the distributor housing with the holddown clamp bolt hole.

Turn the rotor to the 4 o'clock position.
Lower the distributor into the engine block until it seats. The rotor should now be very close to the 5 o'clock position.

Reinstall the distributor cap with the cutout "window". Rotate the distributor housing until the trailing edge of the distributor rotor tip is just departing from the #1 spark plug wire post terminal .

Reinstall the distributor holddown clamp and bolt.. Reinspect the position of the rotor to the #1 spark plug wire post to insure that it has not moved.

Install the new distributor cap, reconnect the distributor electrical connections.
Revised 07/03/2012