Natetf

A week after I bought it
Another pic the week I bought it.
5 minutes after hitting the elk.
The day I was pulling parts off.
Putting parts back on the jeep.
The day I got it back to driving.. yes I went through alittle mud..
i have a 1990 jeep wagoneer limited xj 4.0 and well my biggest problem since I bought it a little over a year ago, is the electrical. Last spring I hit an elk in my jeep, which as you can imagine pretty much totalled it. I did rebuild it all through last summer though.

i replaced the power steering pulley, radiator, and lower radiator hose to brand new, but bought another 1985 jeep Cherokee and took the hood, all the front pieces, and it was back in driving shape.

But it had to use the 85 jeep headlight wiring harness because of changing the headlight configuration from 4 that the wagoneer had to the 2 of the Cherokee.

wehn i was rewiring the headlights, had to use a different switch, as I was not about to mess up trying to hook it to the main switch for all the lights. So I ran the headlights to wire the into the fuse panel and plugged it into the power acc empty spot on the fuse panel, and some how blew the power to over half of my fuse panel, and I have not been able to find the problem ever since.. any ideas?? Would be much appreciated as this jeep has gotten me a long way, and has been my project since I got it..

freegdr

Why not just swap harness .

djgrayxj

Note from DJ
I want you to take your Left Hand and slap your Right Hand (BAD HAND).
Now unplug the new light switch from the ACC spot (BAD IDEA).
Now remove the 15 AMP Radio Fuse beside the now empty ACC spot and check it to see if it is now no good.
If it is no good REPLACE IT WITH A 15 AMP FUSE ONLY; If your hand attempts to replace the 15 AMP fuse with anything other than a 15 AMP fuse take a hammer and SMASH YOUR FINGERS.
I hope this will solve your fuse panel problem.
Turn your key on and report back what happens and stop there and await further information.

moparado

DJ is 100% right!

If you insist on a separate headlight switch, you need to incorporate a relay that can handle the headlight's high amperage. The cabin fuse box's accessory slot is not designed for high amperage use.

Do NOT try using a higher amp fuse, it could potentially start a fire or completely toast the fuse box.

freegdr

Where it all went south was here.

Natetf

that's what I did.. but only for the headlights and the turn signals. I'm trying to restore the power back to fuse panel.. half of the stuff connected to my fuse panel stopped working.. not even the fuses have power.

Natetf

yea I did that afterwards. But still don't have power to over half my fuse panel.. that's what I'm trying to fix.

Natetf

hmmm I did all this after it happened.. and didn't work. Still don't have power to half of my fuse panel.

djgrayxj

Note from DJ
Is this an example of some of the items that are not working?
HVAC Blower Motor
Rear Wiper
Turn Signals
Back-Up Lights
Radio

freegdr

Ignition switch powers fuse box check there next.

BlueRidgeMark

That's because you fried a bunch of stuff behind the fuse panel by trying to pull too much current through it.

Sounds like DJ has got your back. Don't go charging ahead without further instructions or you are likely to make things worse.

By the way, it would have been very easy to use the stock switch and a few relays to do what you wanted to do cleanly and correctly. So, slow down, wait for instructions.

DFlintstone

Your (metal) starter relay has a fan of five or so fusable links on one big post. There is a pic of it in my sig. Easy enough to just inspect and feel those for breaks on the chance you overloaded a circuit that wasn't up to it. Those power about everything.

If it's a manual, a failed clutch master will drip fluid right out of the fusebox, then problems will follow someday.