89 XJ (Battery Power/Power Steering/Gauge Issues) Assistance Appreciated!
 

I’m muddling my way through an 89 Cherokee build I plan to post a thread on. Currently, I'm at an impasse. I admit to being unqualified and am learning as I go. With that said, here’s an explanation of where I’m at...

Initially, the vehicle would randomly stall while driving. Occasionally, I’d have to shift it into neutral to start. At some point, it reached the point where it wouldn’t start…period. It took a jump a few times but then wouldn’t take a jump at all. The battery was charged, but was at or below 25% life (originally purchased in 2016).

During the interim, I replaced the battery cables, starter relay, cleaned electronic connectors, grounds etc… The Cherokee started up with the nearly dead battery and all gauges were reading normal (temperature, oil pressure, etc…) as far as I can recall. The battery gauge was obviously very low and decreased with every start and lowered every second the vehicle ran.

Before changing the alternator, I removed the entire air cleaner assembly and cleaned/painted it. Like a moron, I painted over the sensors. I placed the entire assembly back in w/ new filter and immediately noticed the oil pressure gauge was stuck all the way to the top. The temperature gauge appeared to be stuck to the bottom. I sanded “most” of the paint off the sensors and that seemed to get the oil pressure gauge to move down to about ¾ and noticed the temperature gauge may have started moving ever so slightly (haven’t ran long enough to confirm).

While replacing the alternator, I didn’t know what bolts did the loosening to get the belt off, and must have loosened 5 or 6 located around the power steering pump and noticed fluid around some areas I hadn’t noticed before!

Today, I placed a brand new battery in it. The Cherokee started right up but seemed to have a ton of exhaust fumes, a sticky gas pedal I had to pound w/ my foot in order to activate, and the gauges were still stuck. The battery level on the gauge increased while idling and would only max out at around 12 or so?

I backed the thing out of the garage and noticed right away that the power steering was all screwed up, pulled back in, disconnected the neg. and here I am. What a mess…

Issues I'm hoping to solve:

- Original issue with the vehicle randomly dying (mainly at stops).
- Gauges not working after alternator/air cleaner work.
- Power Steering screwed up after alternator/air cleaner work.

Ouch! Not fun! Sounds like some bad cables and/or grounds had caused the initial problems. These beasties are sensitive to such things, for reasons I don't quite understand.

I suggest three things for starters:

1. Replace the sensors you painted. Use only NTK/NGK* brand. (Mopar) These guys do not like aftermarket sensors very much.
2. Recheck your work on the bolts & belts. You might have missed some things in your frustration. (Not that I have ever done that, of course, but I have heard of it happening. :whistling2:)
3. Visit Cruiser54's site and work through his "Mostly Renix" tips. You have already done some of them, it appears, but take the time to work through the rest.

Try that and see what happens. :cheers:


*That's who made them for Mopar. One is under the Mopar label, and one is sold elsewhere, and I can never remember which is which, but it doesn't matter. They are the same.

Tips 1, 3, 4, and 5. Don't delay in doing them.

Thanks for your feedback BlueRidge. I read your reply around 4AM and it gave me the motivation to go "tinker." I re-checked everything and ACTUALLY CHECKED my power steering level... (Place emoji of smiley face banging head on the wall here).

It was way low and really dark. I loosened some bolts I shouldn't have while try to free the assembly to remove belt to replace alternator (I think). I picked up some regular Prestone and flushed with that and finished with the better stuff that seals. While doing this, I soaked and scrubbed the large bronze air cleaner sensor and scrubbed the two little nipples and plate inside. After moving the wheel back and forth to left and right lock a hundred times, I finally called it air-free. I placed the air cleaner back in and fired her up.

I noticed the difference in power steering immediately. I'm still not certain there's not air coming in somewhere, a leak, or an altogether bad pump, but will monitor this closely. At least it was drive-able.

Cruiser54: I have visited your Renix "Commandments" page multiple times since I began. It’s an amazing resource and I hope people realize how gracious you are to provide this. So, thank you! The original owner was in love with this vehicle and actually spent over $5,000 to have the block replaced 37,000 miles ago. His service records are almost unjustifiable. He was in love w/ it like me. In any event, yes… I need to begin going through the steps chronologically and methodically instead of throwing parts at it like you say.

Nasty and nearly black at the bottom…

Attachment 303677

Capped it here and really started flushing and replacing fluid as I turned…

Attachment 303678

Here it is at natural idle. Temp gauge seems to be working properly as does the oil pressure after cleaning again? It has that low, rough idle, and is really “fumey.” Notice how low the battery gauge is with brand new battery and alternator… urrrrrr

Attachment 303679

Here are the gauges now holding it at a higher rpm while in park…

Attachment 303680

Thanks for your feedback BlueRidge. I read your reply around 4AM and it gave me the motivation to go "tinker." I re-checked everything and ACTUALLY CHECKED my power steering level... (Place emoji of smiley face banging head on the wall here).

It was way low and really dark. I loosened some bolts I shouldn't have while try to free the assembly to remove belt to replace alternator (I think). I picked up some regular Prestone and flushed with that and finished with the better stuff that seals. While doing this, I soaked and scrubbed the large bronze air cleaner sensor and scrubbed the two little nipples and plate inside. After moving the wheel back and forth to left and right lock a hundred times, I finally called it air-free. I placed the air cleaner back in and fired her up.

I noticed the difference in power steering immediately. I'm still not certain there's not air coming in somewhere, a leak, or an altogether bad pump, but will monitor this closely. At least it was drive-able.

Cruiser54: I have visited your Renix "Commandments" page multiple times since I began. It’s an amazing resource and I hope people realize how gracious you are to provide this. So, thank you! The original owner was in love with this vehicle and actually spent over $5,000 to have the block replaced 37,000 miles ago. His service records are almost unjustifiable. He was in love w/ it like me. In any event, yes… I need to begin going through the steps chronologically and methodically instead of throwing parts at it like you say.

Nasty and nearly black at the bottom…

Attachment 303673

Capped it here and really started flushing and replacing fluid as I turned…

Attachment 303674

Here it is at natural idle. Temp gauge seems to be working properly as does the oil pressure after cleaning again? It has that low, rough idle, and is really “fumey.” Notice how low the battery gauge is with brand new battery and alternator… urrrrrr

Attachment 303675

Here are the gauges now holding it at a higher rpm while in park…

Attachment 303676

Hey man. Good job. Thanks for posting your results. Once a year, I take a turkey baster and remove all the fluid from the power steering reservoir and then top it off with new fluid.
I try to do it shortly after Thanksgiving so the residue is gone by nest Turkey Day.

You must have a very understanding wife. When mine saw me doing that she locked me out of the house for almost a week. She also told me if I ever touched her kitchen stuff again I would lose both hands. I sure wish she hadn't passed away.

I bought a turkey baster just for garage use. For a couple of bucks, it's cheap peace.


Sorry to hear you lost her. :(

I bought my own too. Just being a smartass.

Also, sorry for your loss......

Note from DJ to JL89
The voltage gage in the instrument cluster is only almost correct when the key is in the on position and the engine is not running; once the engine is running and things are turned on it will always read low.

The only way to check the charging rate of the alternator is take a VOM and measure the voltage reading of the battery before starting the engine; then start the engine and check the battery voltage again. If the voltage reading has increase the alternator is charging.

Thanks DJ. I wasn't aware of that!

I'll plan to check the alternator's charging rate too, this evening. Unfortunately, I think there's a more than better chance it's still not actually charging.

FWIW, mine is dead on when running.

mine too,just compared my 98 and 00, both read same on all gages ,except gas,!!

Well, there you go. 3 different Jeeps, two different experiences. I'll bet if we took a poll, we'll find that people see it reading lower, right on, and higher, with a fairly even distribution across the Jeep population.

All of that means, these gauges aren't calibrated instruments, so they need to be taken with a grain of salt.

I left both battery cables connected overnight and expected to see a draw. The read looked good though:

Attachment 303662

I turned the key into the "on" position and the gauge showed the same level as yesterday. I started it up and it was the same (low) read as well.

I tested the alternator with the vehicle running and it was low despite replacing it last week. I'd say it was way low if there wasn't the faintest glow of green on the 12.5 read:

Attachment 303663

I have a dead/near dead battery I'm going to throw in to see if the alternator charges and will post later. All is good though, I've had this rack slow cooking for a couple hours + now:

Attachment 303664

I'll definitely post some picks of how they turn out too.