4.0 oil pan gasket?!?
#1
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
4.0 oil pan gasket?!?
so just recently i have noticed that there is drip after drip coming from the oil pan.... now my jeep is a 94 with 86k origional miles and sat for a year, so i think the gasket got eaten... anyone know how to do this change or any advice? Thank CHM
#2
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: AMC242
It's simple enough, but it's rather easier if you're lifted three inches or better. NB: Get the 1996-up gasket - it's one-piece moulded rubber, and easier to handle.
You shouldn't need to disconnect anything from the front axle - but if you're under 3" of lift, you'll need to jack the front end up and let the front axle droop as far as possible. You can get a bit of extra room by putting a bottle jack between the axle tube and the frame rail if you need it - under an inch or so, but it could make the difference (I didn't need to, I probably got lucky.) I did it on my 3" lifted rig with all four feet on the ground.
Use a torque wrench to install the screws - it's easy to crush the gasket beyond utility! Torque specs are on my site, but I believe the 1/4" screws get torqued to 7 pound-feet, and the 5/16" screws to 11 pound-feet. The use of LocTite #222 (or equivalent) is recommended. You should not require RTV when using the later gasket - I never have.
Make sure the sump rails on the pan and block are clean, and straighten the rails on the sump proper if necessary (use a large punch or drift from the backside, punch against a block of wood, and use the hammer gently. Light taps are the order of the day - if you get silly, you'll wreck the sealing surface!)
You may want to consider doing the rear main seal while you're in there, just to have it out of the way. I've covered that in fair detail on several boards, so look for my writeup (I use the same moniker on all Jeep boards.)
You shouldn't need to disconnect anything from the front axle - but if you're under 3" of lift, you'll need to jack the front end up and let the front axle droop as far as possible. You can get a bit of extra room by putting a bottle jack between the axle tube and the frame rail if you need it - under an inch or so, but it could make the difference (I didn't need to, I probably got lucky.) I did it on my 3" lifted rig with all four feet on the ground.
Use a torque wrench to install the screws - it's easy to crush the gasket beyond utility! Torque specs are on my site, but I believe the 1/4" screws get torqued to 7 pound-feet, and the 5/16" screws to 11 pound-feet. The use of LocTite #222 (or equivalent) is recommended. You should not require RTV when using the later gasket - I never have.
Make sure the sump rails on the pan and block are clean, and straighten the rails on the sump proper if necessary (use a large punch or drift from the backside, punch against a block of wood, and use the hammer gently. Light taps are the order of the day - if you get silly, you'll wreck the sealing surface!)
You may want to consider doing the rear main seal while you're in there, just to have it out of the way. I've covered that in fair detail on several boards, so look for my writeup (I use the same moniker on all Jeep boards.)
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yea unbolt the pan..... scrape the pan..... and replace the gasket..... then bolt it back up........ you also may want to unbolt the tranny dip stick tube from where the tie bracket bolts into the tranny..... and let the dip stick drop down with the tranny pan... (yes the dipstick tube can seperate from the tranny but they are a reall PITA to squeeze back in so your better off just leaving in connected
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: AMC242
yea unbolt the pan..... scrape the pan..... and replace the gasket..... then bolt it back up........ you also may want to unbolt the tranny dip stick tube from where the tie bracket bolts into the tranny..... and let the dip stick drop down with the tranny pan... (yes the dipstick tube can seperate from the tranny but they are a reall PITA to squeeze back in so your better off just leaving in connected
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