I have a 94 XJ, I am putting my head back on and realize there are no alignment pins. Are there supposed to be any between the block and the head? I've never seen an engine without them.
Thanks.

 

My 98 had them but not sure about yours, So sorry i didn't really help out at all

 

There should be atleast two pins in the block.

 

i had the head off on my 96 4.0 2 weeks ago and there was two guide pins in the block

 

I remember reading somewhere about cutting the heads off 2 of the old head bolts and screwing them in finger tight to use as guide pins.

You should use new head bolts anyways as you can only use them twice and the factory install of the head counts as one use. If they have white paint on the heads they have already been removed and reused so once you remove them again they are now junk. Unless you owned the Jeep since it was new you never know if a P.O removed and Reused the bolts but never marked them. Better to be safe and get new bolts then be sorry when they break and possibly trash your motor.

 

Not strictly necessary. Let me offer a couple bits that I've found useful:

1) Get a stick of 1/2"-13 threaded rod. Cut two pieces about 4" long. Dress the ends, and grind a slot in one end. Thread in 1/2"-3/4" or so. Lower the head onto the pins. Remove by unscrewing with a flat screwdriver (recall the slot?) and extract with a "magnet-on-a-stick."
2) Put the rear two cylinder head screws in place, using tape to keep the ends above the deck surface. You won't have room to get these in once the head's down.
3) Don't forget the sealant on the driver's side front screw threads (#14.) Standard PTFE "pipe dope" will serve neatly - check your local hardware/DIY store's plumbing section (I typically use "Harvey's Pipe Dope")
4) Torque in stages, using a clockwise spiral sequence (standing on the driver's side, and starting with the passenger side centre):
- Stage 1 - 25 pound-feet
- Stage 2 - 50 pound-feet
- Stage 3 - 75 pound-feet
- Stage 4 - 100 pound-feet
- Stage 5 - 110 pound-feet, skipping the driver's side frontmost screw (#14)

13-09-05-01-03-07-11 (Pax side of engine)

14-10-06-02-04-08-12 (Driver's side of engine)

The manifold is torqued similarly to a figure of 19-21 pound-feet. Start at the top centre screw, and go in a clockwise spiral as well. Don't forget the bowl-shaped washers under the screw heads/nuts, and it's a good idea to replace the screws every time they come out (if you're using carbon steel. Use SAE Grade 5 - 3/8"-16x1-1/4".)

Recall that the guide sleeves (typically around the corner screw holes) may have been removed in a previous service, or may not have been installed at the factory.

Also recall that, if you try to torque the head screws a third time, they may fail and rupture. Such rupture seems to occur right about the level of the block deck, which makes for an "interesting" repair experience (I've had to burn several out for people using a pencil-flame torch...)

 

Moved to a more appropriate section.

Stryker Out!