2001 Sport Misfire Cyl 6 still w/ New Head
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Location: Tarpon Springs, FL / Denver, CO
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Year: '98
Engine: 4.0 I6
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/testing-cps-5563/
I got lucky and found a good deal on my CPS on eBay, I think it was only $45 or so at the time, when most other places wanted $70 or so for a genuine MOPAR one, I got lucky though.
In a pinch, I had read about Napa sensors working well and you would get a local warranty (I think they probably have lifetime warranty on their sensors)
EDIT:
For an 00/01 Cherokee, keep it to NGK plugs, no reason to get anything else unless you 100% have a bad spark plug
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#20
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Update: I tested the CPS as per the link investinwaffles shared, all good on that front. I ohmed out each injector and got 12-14 for each. I haven't had time to hit up the parts store for a NOID light yet, but I swapped the injectors around and no change. I did however notice I the engine was running and I unplugged injector 5, the engine would bog, then recover when I plugged it back in (makes sense). When I tried this on injector 6, no change. I think this is a pretty solid lead. Ill install the new harness that wesleys sent when it arrives and hopefully that fixes the problems. A good tuneup, new vac lines, and the timing check are all still things that need to be done soon.
#21
Update: I tested the CPS as per the link investinwaffles shared, all good on that front. I ohmed out each injector and got 12-14 for each. I haven't had time to hit up the parts store for a NOID light yet, but I swapped the injectors around and no change. I did however notice I the engine was running and I unplugged injector 5, the engine would bog, then recover when I plugged it back in (makes sense). When I tried this on injector 6, no change. I think this is a pretty solid lead. Ill install the new harness that wesleys sent when it arrives and hopefully that fixes the problems. A good tuneup, new vac lines, and the timing check are all still things that need to be done soon.
USPS says it should arrive tomorrow. Id recommend using heat shrink butt connectors but I threw in two normal ones just in case you didn’t have any. My large baggie of them were at another shop I’m working at. When you cut the wire back I would put the splices in the main harness run.
#22
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Year: '98
Engine: 4.0 I6
Update: I tested the CPS as per the link investinwaffles shared, all good on that front. I ohmed out each injector and got 12-14 for each. I haven't had time to hit up the parts store for a NOID light yet, but I swapped the injectors around and no change. I did however notice I the engine was running and I unplugged injector 5, the engine would bog, then recover when I plugged it back in (makes sense). When I tried this on injector 6, no change. I think this is a pretty solid lead. Ill install the new harness that wesleys sent when it arrives and hopefully that fixes the problems. A good tuneup, new vac lines, and the timing check are all still things that need to be done soon.
#23
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Today I went out and did some troubleshooting. First I changed the injector harness to the one Wesleys provided, and didn't notice and discernible difference. So I swapped Spark plug #6 with #2, and didn't get anything. Next I swapped injector #6 with injector #1 ( I did test each individually on the battery and heard a definite click) the filters on each really didn't look so bad. I cleared the codes, drove a bit and got some new codes. Cylinder 6 and 2 now have misfires, and a random misfire code. I noticed the main harness' shrink wrapping is hard and brittle and most of the wires in it are soft and flimsy.
I've also noticed my oil pressure is sitting around 19-22 when hot. With the current changes my idle is a lot less rough but still feels like the engine is bogged down a little when sitting for more than a few minutes.
New hypothesis: As previously mentioned I need to trash the ACDelco 41-631s for the NGK spark plugs. I also think I need a new harness, and injectors as most of them have cracks in them.
I've also noticed my oil pressure is sitting around 19-22 when hot. With the current changes my idle is a lot less rough but still feels like the engine is bogged down a little when sitting for more than a few minutes.
New hypothesis: As previously mentioned I need to trash the ACDelco 41-631s for the NGK spark plugs. I also think I need a new harness, and injectors as most of them have cracks in them.
Last edited by Matthew Price; 01-20-2018 at 04:18 PM.
#24
Today I went out and did some troubleshooting. First I changed the injector harness to the one Wesleys provided, and didn't notice and discernible difference. So I swapped Spark plug #6 with #2, and didn't get anything. Next I swapped injector #6 with injector #1 ( I did test each individually on the battery and heard a definite click) the filters on each really didn't look so bad. I cleared the codes, drove a bit and got some new codes. Cylinder 6 and 2 now have misfires, and a random misfire code. I noticed the main harness' shrink wrapping is hard and brittle and most of the wires in it are soft and flimsy.
I've also noticed my oil pressure is sitting around 19-22 when hot. With the current changes my idle is a lot less rough but still feels like the engine is bogged down a little when sitting for more than a few minutes.
New hypothesis: As previously mentioned I need to trash the ACDelco 41-631s for the NGK spark plugs. I also think I need a new harness, and injectors as most of them have cracks in them.
I've also noticed my oil pressure is sitting around 19-22 when hot. With the current changes my idle is a lot less rough but still feels like the engine is bogged down a little when sitting for more than a few minutes.
New hypothesis: As previously mentioned I need to trash the ACDelco 41-631s for the NGK spark plugs. I also think I need a new harness, and injectors as most of them have cracks in them.
I vote crank sensor and injector sync. Also if you have had the cam sensor off it controls injector timing and needs to be fine tuned with a scanner. Toothpick will only get so accurate. Id start with injector sync.
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