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2001 Sport Misfire Cyl 6 still w/ New Head
Hey guys I need some advice for the heep. I am getting a cylinder six misfire code. Heres everything I have done so far.
When replacing the head I broke the intake manifold on accident and it ended up being cheaper to pull one from a JY but I could only find one off of a 93 so I know I lost some HP with that. Minus the code, I do have a "rough" idle but nothing terrible, it could pass for a vac leak if it didn't have the code. (I need to replace pretty much all the vac lines and ccv fittings). I have the californina emissions so double pre-cat. Now with that the previous owner welded it or something but it looks crushed almost where the two halves meet. When I make right hand turns at a certain speed/angle it rubs the transmission and makes a terrible sound and smells like burnt wax for a little afterwords. Maybe the decreased airflow has something to do with it? A new one of those stupid things are 250 min. I think I need to swap my fuel injectors to see if the code follows. Maybe check voltage pulses on the injector harness and a compression check with a better tool than the crappy auto zone loaner. Does anyone else have any ideas what the problem might be? |
Originally Posted by Matthew Price
(Post 3455820)
Originally Posted by Matthew Price
(Post 3455820)
I think I need to swap my fuel injectors to see if the code follows.
Originally Posted by Matthew Price
(Post 3455820)
Maybe check voltage pulses on the injector harness and a compression check with a better tool than the crappy auto zone loaner.
Originally Posted by Matthew Price
(Post 3455820)
Does anyone else have any ideas what the problem might be?
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/h...ensor-1145301/ While you have the sensor off, check the oil pump drive to make sure the inner shaft isn't worn and wobbling. Also look in the sensor to see if the magnet has any bites taken out of it. The only other thing that comes to mind would have to do with the head, springs and the valve rotation TSB. But if you had a cylinder 6 misfire before the head swap and still have it after the head swap, you'd have to be pretty unlucky to get two heads with the same valve or spring issue. |
1. Definitely swap fuel injectors! And verify pulse to #6 injector with noid light
2. What brand spark plugs are you using? Are they gapped to .035? 3. As mentioned, what is your fuel pressure? 49 plus or minus 5 is your target. |
New to the forum. I just went through cyl 1 and very occasionally a cyl 6 misfire. Did a whole lot of work which I don’t regret due to the age of the vehicle but mine ended up being a crank sensor. Can’t explain it but mopar sensor fixed it. Issue remained when I tried an auto zone sensor. Havnt has it come back in quite some time and it runs better than ever minus fuel economy but I’m a bit greedy on that.
I even ordered a new set of injector pigtails and made a new injector harness being as most of my clips were broken. |
Forgot to mention use a compatible scan tool and make sure your cam sensor injector sync is within range. |
My CPS would always test OK but when it was hot, it would randomly misfire and RPM's would drop erratically. Likewise if it was really cold.
I ended up swapping it with a MOPAR crank position sensor and it has been fine ever since. Definitely check the injector resistance on the misfiring cyl, and possibly just swap them around to be 100% sure since its easier than changing the CPS. I can't remember if my misfire was limited to a single cylinder or all of them though |
The best help I had was using a scan tool that could show misfires. It shows what each cyl is doing. In my case a bunch of them were misfiring but the threshold for these to actually show a code is insanely high. I used a snap on equos ultra. Mine got worse above 1800rpm but would only show a code after a few key cycles and weird times even during a long commute. Id be interested to know if f those little obd2 plug ins that link to your phone would have a misfire counter. |
Fuel pressure was 45 and some change, but I’ll retest this weekend since I changed out the original fuel filter after 220k so I’m sure I’ve got a bit more now. If I get time after work I’ll swap injectors around, and hit up autozone or orilleys for the NOID light. I really don’t want to pay a shop just for a scan if I don’t have to. Anyone in the Washington Area have one? Or know somewhere that will check this thing for cheap? Because of the age, mileage, and condition of the parts I’m changing are so bad I don’t mind taking the time to replace but eventually I’m going to run out of cheap fixes haha. The little red clips on my injector harness are all broke from the previous owner. Is there like a pigtail kit or are they individual solder in jobs?
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Originally Posted by investinwaffles
(Post 3455946)
My CPS would always test OK but when it was hot, it would randomly misfire and RPM's would drop erratically. Likewise if it was really cold.
I ended up swapping it with a MOPAR crank position sensor and it has been fine ever since. Definitely check the injector resistance on the misfiring cyl, and possibly just swap them around to be 100% sure since its easier than changing the CPS. I can't remember if my misfire was limited to a single cylinder or all of them though Do you have that measurement handy? That’s an easy check I can do before the weekend. Do you remember how much that mopar sensor set you back? |
Originally Posted by tjwalker
(Post 3455907)
2. What brand spark plugs are you using? Are they gapped to .035?
I checked gaps when I replaced the head. The ones I replaced after I bought the Jeep were basically nubs, surprised it rand tbh. I think they’re the 2nd most expensive auto lite orilleys sells under the four tip bosh platinums as I was told our engines don’t like them. |
Originally Posted by Matthew Price
(Post 3455994)
Do you have that measurement handy? That’s an easy check I can do before the weekend. Do you remember how much that mopar sensor set you back? The crank sensor should ready open when you check between b and c I believe. I check and all showed open where my old sensor bounced between open and a small resistance. I have two or three injector clip pigtails spare being as I bought 8. I won’t use them if you want one I will stick it in the snail mail with two heat shrink butt connectors so you can just cut, crimp, and splice. If you unplug it and it idles rough more than likely it isn’t your issue. Not sure about injector resistance. They normally are very dirty or clogged filters. I can include a single injector filter. Just use a wood screw to remove your old one from the fuel rail side. |
This was where I got mine from.
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Originally Posted by Matthew Price
(Post 3455997)
I checked gaps when I replaced the head. The ones I replaced after I bought the Jeep were basically nubs, surprised it rand tbh. I think they’re the 2nd most expensive auto lite orilleys sells under the four tip bosh platinums as I was told our engines don’t like them. NGK ZFR5N gapped to .035 That's what should be in a coil rail ignition 4.0L. Just plain old copper NGK ZFR5N. Don't let an auto store parts monkey convince you to buy anything fancier than that. No platinum. No iridium. No E3s. Our ignition system is designed to work best at the resistance the copper plugs provide. The resistance is actually too high in the other type plugs, and it causes the computer to do strange things. Our Jeeps have a particular disdain for Bosch plugs, and if those are still in yours, that could very well be your culprit. In a pinch you can also use good old copper Champion RC12ECC plugs, and that's actually the recommended plug for '99 and down. But '00 and '01 liked the NGKs enough that Chrysler added it to the spec for the coil rail motors later on.
Originally Posted by Matthew Price
(Post 3455992)
Fuel pressure was 45 and some change, but I’ll retest this weekend since I changed out the original fuel filter after 220k so I’m sure I’ve got a bit more now.
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Originally Posted by extrashaky
(Post 3456094)
I'm not sure if you're saying you have Bosch plugs in it, or you replaced Bosch plugs with something else. So let me make it simple:
NGK ZFR5N gapped to .035 45 is pretty low. Your minimum acceptable level is 44.2. I'll retest the fuel pressure and give an update on that this weekend as well as the NOID light test, and any scan results if I can get my hands on a good scanner. The crank sensor should ready open when you check between b and c I believe |
On the pre-99's what is considered the best plug? NGK or something else?
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