Waynerd

So the 01 we have is at 215,000+ right now. Over the winter the original steering pump bearing exploded and just a couple weeks ago the original alternator suddenly stopped charging.
Now there's a light smell of coolant when the hvac blower is first turned on but not measurably losing coolant. Also the right front axle seal is beginning to leak.
Some other things to also consider is flushing the cooling system and thermostat and water pump. I'm also going to begin replacing some sensors and cleaning the throttle body. Possibly do the injectors as well a little later on.

EEVEE

my cherokee has been reliable only time it left me on the side of the road was a funky cps sensor but once that has been fixed all smooth sailing

edit: OH and a power steering pump that blew up and made a total utter mess under the hood and the hotel parking lot

EEVEE

My pump went at 209k miles. But some have to consider how old these are getting and parts wear out. Maintain them and they last forever, But dont expect them to last literally forever on original parts. Find a trustworthy mechanic to do a full inspection. And also if a new sound pops up make sure to trace it and fix or it can potentially leave you stranded unless theres a junkyard nearby.

nhopa

Hi Basslicks:




I do not have an Evap code on my code reader. All monitored systems were cleared from my computer after disconnecting the battery. After the repair I drove the Jeep per the Chrysler drive cycle protocol and in addition many miles on highways with around 65 m/h. All the codes have satisfactory reset except the Evap code. There is no engine light on. So there I am, running the protocol every day with no success. Will keep you posted.

Basslicks

Hmmm that's interesting. My knowledge of the OBDII Jeeps is limited, so this is beyond my expertise. Maybe someone with more technical knowledge of that protocol can chime in here (Man I miss CCKen for stuff like this).

5-Speed

I was having a similar issue with my 99. All the other monitored systems would check out except for the evap. It turned out that I had a bad connection at the battery. Not every time, but randomly, when I went to start it, it would cut out for a split second and reset the ecu. I could only tell because my radio would reset when this happened. After cleaning the battery terminals, the issue has not come back up and the evap is ready to go.

nhopa

Hi Basslicks and all other followers of this thread:


I have good news to report. Yesterday after driving another 90 mostly highway miles finally I got the code P0441. Evap system incorrect purge flow. Now I had something to work with. The causes for this code can be many, but the key word is "FLOW". I started to look for restriction in the Evap system lines and I found one in the line coming from the fuel tank to the carbon canister. I cleared the restriction then I ran part one of the Chrysler Drive Cycle. This morning I ran part two the Drive Cycle and then a miracle happened, I got green light on my scanner, no codes, nothing. I immediately went for the mandatory emission testing and my Jeep Cherokee with over 190000 miles passed.
I want to thank you all for your inputs, this is a great forum, let's keep up the good work.

Basslicks

Congrats, that's great!

Joshua White

Awesome news, way to track and diagnose the problem

PatHenry

Well done sir, well done.

PatHenry

Re: the original thought of rebuilding stuff because of mileage -

I just fired up my 00 TJ with 301,769 -original- miles on it after it had been sitting for 2 years. (I did pre-lubricate) It fired right up and ran like a g-d dream. It almost makes me want to tell my buddy that wants to buy it "no" and start looking for a good AX15 or NV3350 to replace the blown transmission.

double_0_7

I'm reading this thread, and it's making me lean toward what I already wanted to do...

So I have a 2000 sport I bought about a month ago. I'm fixing up things as I go, but it isn't my DD yet. I'm much better at doing the labor than I am at diagnosing, but I'm learning. I have performance upgrades in mind for the 4.0, but only mild, daily driving stuff as far as the engine goes. There are a lot of leaks, and what might be a bearing problem. I haven't looked for it yet, but the noise combined with it only showing up when the engine is at operating temp seems to line up with what I read in another thread.

Passed the compression test like a champ though. Only CELs are for 02 sensors and a p1495. I'm going to fix those first, but it leaves me with my original question...

How do I make sure the engine is able to handle upgrades? There seems to be an oil leak too, so how much of that will be naturally taken care of if I'm taking the engine apart to install new stuff which will come with new gaskets?

This thread makes me think rebuilding the engine isn't the right call, but how do I refresh?

PatHenry

Have you addressed the 0331 head issue yet?

If you want to get a good idea of your engine condition for a reasonable price you can always do a Blackstone Labs oil analysis. However that won't tell you much about the possible bearing issue you mentioned. How far are you thinking to go with modifications and what specifically are you thinking of doing?

Joshua White

What I've learned over my budget minded build career is this...always bring things back to "stage 0" meaning before you make those stage 1/2/3 mods you should always get the vehicle caught up on maintenance and fix any issues that wouldn't be there with proper maintenance over time (leaks, missing components, non functioning accessories).

It's a big thing over on the TurboBricks forum (old turbo volvos) since those cars, much like our XJs, will run forever with little care about condition.

double_0_7

This getting it to stage 0 is what I'm trying to figure out. Before I did much reading, I figured a rebuild kit would be the way to go. Based on responses like the one by Basslicks at the start of this thread, I don't think so anymore. How do I make sure I get back to stage 0? Also, yes, I plan on fixing the do that? For the record, I've changed an engine before, but never taken one apart. I'm sure I will need to as part of this project.

As for the 0331, does a good compression test mean it hasn't happened yet, and I only need to worry about it going forward? I honestly haven't driven it long enough to know of any coolant leaks yet. I only notice oil on the underside of the car and some on my garage floor. Good oil pressure on the gauge and good temp there too.