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MOTION91 10-11-2010 01:14 PM

2001 cherokee 133.000
 
Whats a good oil to use. Winter is coming. Thanks

dukie564 10-11-2010 01:34 PM

5W-30 will give you good cold weather ease-of-starting. I usually go with a synthetic blend oil - brand is not that big of an issue - try to stick to mainstream brands though

00jeepXJ 10-11-2010 01:36 PM

Ah another mitten man... welcome to the forum. I run 10w-30 through mine. If you are up past Cadillac then I might think of something different. Just my two pennies.

Diesel 10-11-2010 01:43 PM

10W will be fine, there is no point in switching to 5W unless your climate gets less than -20* F.

dukie564 10-11-2010 02:00 PM


Originally Posted by Diesel (Post 696547)
there is no point in switching to 5W unless your climate gets less than -20* F.

That's not true. No matter what the startup temperature is, a lower cold weight oil will cause less startup stress and will have less viscosity when "cold" than a higher cold weight oil. Most of the wear on your engine occurs at startup when the oil is thick, changing to a 5w or even a 0w will help immensely.

That being said, as long as you keep the SAE rating the same so the operating viscosity doesn't change, a 0w, 5w, or 10w should be fine. I've made my argument for a lower weight...make your own decision

jth877 10-11-2010 02:04 PM

10W-30 is fine for winter. The 4.0 valve train does not like thin oils.

dukie564 10-11-2010 02:06 PM

5w-30 is not thinner than 10w-30...

Diesel 10-11-2010 02:08 PM


Originally Posted by dukie564 (Post 696558)
That's not true. No matter what the startup temperature is, a lower cold weight oil will cause less startup stress and will have less viscosity when "cold" than a higher cold weight oil. Most of the wear on your engine occurs at startup when the oil is thick, changing to a 5w or even a 0w will help immensely.

That being said, as long as you keep the SAE rating the same so the operating viscosity doesn't change, a 0w, 5w, or 10w should be fine. I've made my argument for a lower weight...make your own decision

Maybe I worded it wrong. 10W is not affected by temperature until -20* F. It wont make a difference. Here is a chart, especially for you, that shows when different oil grades viscosities will change. So unless you are living in a climate that gets to -20* F or less, it wont matter.

http://www.aa1car.com/library/oil_chart.jpg


Originally Posted by jth877 (Post 696561)
10W-30 is fine for winter. The 4.0 valve train does not like thin oils.

And with >10W you will need to change it in half the miles or less.

dukie564 10-11-2010 02:11 PM

sorry if i made it sound like one...wasn't meant to be an argument. Temperature still affects the start up viscosity whether it's -20* or 75*.

If anyone is interested This Article is fantastic on the topic of viscosity levels and synthetic vs dino

MOTION91 10-11-2010 02:21 PM

Thanks .everbody for the info
 
:thumbup1:

Diesel 10-11-2010 02:34 PM


Originally Posted by dukie564 (Post 696571)
sorry if i made it sound like one...wasn't meant to be an argument. Temperature still affects the start up viscosity whether it's -20* or 75*.

If anyone is interested This Article is fantastic on the topic of viscosity levels and synthetic vs dino

Your interpretation is way off, 10W-30 designates a common multi-grade oil. The first number associated with the W (again W is for Winter, not Weight) is not rated at any single temperature down to its rated temperature. The "10W" means that this oil can be pumped by your engine as well as a single-grade SAE 10 oil can be pumped. The second number, 30, means that the viscosity of this multi-grade oil at 100°C (212°F) operating temperature corresponds to the viscosity of a single-grade 30 oil at same temperature.

When the temperature drops, SAE30 would act like a 30W and thicken. 10W30 will act as a 10W to the lowest rated temp.

dukie564 10-11-2010 03:54 PM


Originally Posted by Diesel (Post 696586)
Your interpretation is way off, 10W-30 designates a common multi-grade oil. The first number associated with the W (again W is for Winter, not Weight) is not rated at any single temperature down to its rated temperature. The "10W" means that this oil can be pumped by your engine as well as a single-grade SAE 10 oil can be pumped. The second number, 30, means that the viscosity of this multi-grade oil at 100°C (212°F) operating temperature corresponds to the viscosity of a single-grade 30 oil at same temperature.

When the temperature drops, SAE30 would act like a 30W and thicken. 10W30 will act as a 10W to the lowest rated temp.

Ok, for my own sanity i needed to investigate this further, this is what i found:

You are partially correct, and i don't blame you/me/anyone else because a lot of the confusion of this topic comes from common misconceptions. I had to go right to the source for a definitive answer.

W does NOT stand for winter (and not weight either...my bad) ,

From SAE J300 p.2:
"Two series of viscosity grades are defined in Table (1): (a) those containing the letter W and (b) those without. Single viscosity grade oils with the letter W are defined by maximum low temperature cranking and pumping viscosities and a minimum kinematic viscosity at 100C. Single grade oils without the letter W are based on a set of minimum and maximum kinematic viscosities at 100C and a minimum high shear rate viscosity at 150C. The shear rate will depend on the test method. Multi-grade grade oils are defined by both of these criteria....
The W is just a designation of one type of testing vs another.

the only difference between a 0W-30 and a 10W-30 is that the 0W-30 thickens less after you turn off your engine. It is still thick in the morning at startup, but not as thick as the 10W-30. Technically, they are still too thick to use until they both warm up to operating temperature at which point they have the save viscosity, around 10 to 11. The 0W-30, 10W-30 and straight 30 grade oils all have a viscosity of around 10 at normal engine operating temperatures. They all thicken when you turn off your engine. The 10W-30 will thicken the most.

You are correct that a 10W-30 multi-grade mineral based oil is made from a 10 grade oil. It acts as a 30 grade oil when hot. It acts more as a 10 grade oil at startup. But, it should be mentioned that a 10 or 5 or 2 grade oil is still too thick to provide lubrication at startup. They are all too thick at startup. There is currently no engine oil thin enough to operate correctly at startup. They all cause excessive wear at startup.


From SAE for the "ideal" oil formulation:

Oil type.. Thickness at 75 F ..Thickness at 212 F (For mineral based oils)

Straight 30..........250....................10
10W-30...............100....................10
0W-30.................40.....................10

Straight 10..........30.....................6
Straight 5...........20.....................4
Straight 2...........15.....................3
Straight 0...........12.....................3 est.
a thickness of 10 is where your engine "wants" to be



So yes, i had errors in some of my statements and wording, but my claim that changing to a 5w or even a 0w will help immensely seems to be validated. I'm not saying that it would in any way be bad to use 10w-30, i do myself on occasion

Lets not fight...I <3 you. This topic has been beat to death with an iron stick. :surrender:


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