It's only $50 and a lot of time.

 

You could always bypass the core. This would tell you for sure if that's the cause of the brown fluids.

 

Was the heater core disconnected and flushed directly, or just a whole system flush? If it wasn't disconnected do that and back-flush it. You can also back-flush the engine through the heater hose connection at the thermostat housing, but it would be more effective to remove the thermostat and really be able to blast it out. When shops say they flush a cooling system it's usually just a dump & fill. Lots of coolant stays in the block and often in the heater core. If the shop won't do it you may have to find someone else or do it yourself. I've had only one experience where a vehicle kept turning the coolant rusty, turned out to be a wiring problem which is a pretty rare thing. You probably just have massive accumulation that'll require a lot of flushing and/or chemical treatment to remove. Maybe you can find a handy member here local to you to help if you're not a DIY guy.

 

Try this:


THANKS to djb383:
"Remove the top radiator hose and top heater hose from the t-stat cover. Remove the bottom radiator hose from the water pump (very easy if the plastic air filter box is removed 1st). Stick a garden hose in the heater hose and flush. Stick the garden hose on the heater hose nipple on the thermostat cover and flush. Stick garden hose in the top radiator hose and flush. All areas are now flushed without crud moving from one place and lodging in another."

 

What size of tank should I get if I'm using a hose to flush it. I know you can't just let the coolant (new or used) drain into the gutter. But using a hose would fill a 16 quart tank up pretty quickly though right?

 

A couple 5 gallon buckets would probably work well.

 

i have driven the car for over 1 week now after the coolant spewed out of overflow bottle

the temp has not gone over 210 f

its been at about 200 which is good

so my theory was there was air in the system and it burped out of overflow and now is ok

only time will tell

 

Shelby, did you burp the coolant system after filling? Or did you just fill to the top, cap it, and go. If you didn't burp the system most likely you had a huge air bubble which pushed out alot of collant out of your overflow or rad cap.

 

Go to your home improvement store and grab a mortar pan, less than $20 and will pretty much sit right underneath everything you are flushing. Then you can easily transfer it to a bucket or three.

 

have been driving for over month now since the overflow empty incident and since i burped system it has been running 195-200 all the time

the guy who changed out the radiator and water pump didnt burp system completely it seems