Got it, will try in abit

 

Also, thank you. I'm determined to figure this out

 

Same .61 checked it twice. Probably the meter off abit, it is a harbor freight unit. Do I probe 3&4 to test speed sensor?

 

No, probe 4 to 24.


Lowes and Home Depot sell manual multimeters that are relatively cheap but good. $20-$29.

 

Something wrong with the way posting from cell works, never seems to go through. Tested speed sensor during lunch. Haven't seen infinity come up on a meter before, is it the sideways 8 or ? Tested it 3 times and each time I got no reaction at all from the meter just the 1 that is on screen when set to resistance. I do remember when I replaced the speed sensor that whoever changed it last cut off the old and connected a new connector for it, didn't look loose or anything but who knows. The new one did come with a new connector to cut and splice on but I didn't as it didn't seem necessary. Only thing I can think of.


Probably won't have time to mess with it until the 12th when I return from honeymoon at which point just to be safe I'll go pick up a new meter although I think the meter is reading correct. At this point I'm wondering if it IS the trans..

 

As I asked before, why was the output speed sensor changed to begin with?


When reading the output speed sensor from the TCM connector and you see no resistance it is only valid if that cut and splice connector was installed properly. If the wires were butt spliced and were butchered you may have an open in the circuit from the splice. Just say'n.

 

Because I didn't think to test it and was annoyed that the solenoids didn't fix it so I threw a speed sensor at it. I'll just cut and splice new one on to be sure.

 

Ok, back from Honeymoon. Last Friday coming home stopped at a stop light I put it in Neutral, light turns green I put it in drive and it died. Putting it in Park it started right back up. Made two stops on the way home that day and it did not do it again. Took it on a 3 mile jaunt this Morning for donuts and to make sure the battery wasn't dead and again no issues. I take it out this evening for Whataburger and end up idling for 5 minutes at the window so I put it in Neutral after a few more minutes Park and then shut it off. 2 minutes later it wouldn't crank on the first try but right up on the second. Thinking it was me not turning the key long enough drove on, I go 2 miles and several stop signs with zero issues as I'm going over a parking lot speed bump at the apt at normal speed it just died and refused to start again. No code in the computer, no dummy lights and nothing amiss under the hood that I could tell.


Not sure this is Transmission related but didn't want to start a whole new thread lol. Going to grab the train to work in the Morning and try to research on this in between work calls, if anyone has a suggestion where to start I would appreciate it. Going to try to download a manual and start with the obvious jazz like fuel pump and crank position sensor etc.

 

bump for a cure

 

Hi, did you ever find the error ? I get the same codes, I changed the NSS, tps, rebuilt the full trans, rebuilt the valve body , changed selenoids, cleaning grounds, and I still have the same codes ..

 

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I don't know why, but if you pull the dipstick from the tube first, the pan comes off very much easier from the bottom of the tube.

 

I know this thread is old, but did any of you find a resolution? I have a gremlin in my 97's wiring.

 

I have NO probs with folk reviving an olf thread, makes perfect sense to me.

If you say you are "having problems with your harness", I just successfully workaround this nasty problem.

1st, if its your solenoid harness, check you have continuity from the connector near trans to earth and the resistance is about 14Ohms

If it isnt, you have a defective solenoid or harness. In my case it was the harness. See my recent post on 96 harness for the fix

If you have some other problem, please report what it is

 

So my 97 is acting the same way. Tested and swapped TPS, adjusted kickdown, . Pulled and 3 solenoids and all test 12.9 and lockup is 13.1. Tried a (smaller) set from Amazon that was supposed to work in A340 and AW4. XJ would not move in any gear. TCM plugged in and unplugged.

Mine doesn't die when I stop but it doesn't downshift. It acts like when you're on a hill with a manual and barely engage the clutch to keep from coasting backwards. If I throw it in Park, shut it off and restart it drives fine until I slow down or stop.

TC does not lock up. No o/d. Before this thing really **** the bed, I was having to run 1st up to about 4k to get it to shift to 2nd from a cold start. It's just been getting progressively weirder and more messed up as time has gone on. Oh yeah I replaced my brake pedal switch some time ago and for a couple months TC lockup came back but now it's a freaking paper weight. Didn't have time to reinstall old solenoids which all tested good and clicked with 12v.

The actual clip on the harness for the TC solenoid is brittle and broke but the contact is good and tight.

I've got half a mind to just start tearing this 97 apart and stripping everything to get my 2000 back on the road. I still have yet to see a real solution for this cursed p1898 and unfixable AW4 wiring for 1997.