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1994 Door Hinge

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Old Sep 12, 2015 | 10:07 PM
  #16  
cliffy's Avatar
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You won't have to take the front bumper off but it will require you to remove a few bolts from the fender to the front end. If my memory serves me correctly I got to a couple of them by removing the headlight and bezel. I also broke several of the clips and that hold the screws on top of the fender in the engine compartment. So plan on getting some of those, I replaced all of them and found them at my local Lowes. All in all it was not as bad as I thought it was going to be but I definitely did not remove the bumper.
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Old Sep 12, 2015 | 10:17 PM
  #17  
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That helps a bunch. The service manual had me removing the bumper. Didn't make sense. It's a given breaking those plastic snaps. Thanks. I'll start first thing in the morning start pulling off the fender . It makes more sense. I'll post back what happens.
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Old Sep 12, 2015 | 10:21 PM
  #18  
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Good luck, I was a little tentative at first but it was not bad at all. I also took the advice of some others on here and ordered one of the pacific coast manuals. It was around $8.00 and it was well worth it. It downloads in a PDF right to your phone or laptop.
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Old Sep 12, 2015 | 10:26 PM
  #19  
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Pacific Coast manuals? I'll do a Internet search.
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Old Sep 12, 2015 | 10:32 PM
  #20  
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Yes and it also included a manual on the transmissions.
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Old Sep 13, 2015 | 12:14 AM
  #21  
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Year: 1994
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Luckily my door post isn't cracked at the hinge welds !!

But, my driver's door was sagging enough to have wind noise at the top. After an internet search for a couple weeks, I found no pin & bushings for that hinge. I guess these models are orphans to some degree.
Anyway, a member on here suggested a shim between the door & bottom hinge, to bring the rear of the door up closer to the weatherstrip, which worked great....no more wind noise. I would have preferred doing it right, with pins, bushings etc, but no parts available....

So, if you have to raise the door after welding the hinge attach point on the door post, the shim idea works.
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Old Sep 13, 2015 | 09:11 PM
  #22  
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At first didn't understand. But now I get it. Put a Shim in between where the door bolts thru onto the hinge. Guessing maybe 1/8 inch to start. Then go up or down depending if need to 'lean' the upper part of the door in or out. Great tip.
I'll weld it tomorrow, shop closed today.
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Old Sep 17, 2015 | 10:17 AM
  #23  
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Don't have to take off the bumper. Just loosened the end cap of the bumper and could reach those. Got most screws out and the plastic snaps out. Cut the ones that couldn't. Only screws left are the front attachment to the body. And inside the door . How do you access those two at the front? Can't get my hand in there. I'll try removing the actual headlamp and lower front light to get to it. I don't see how ? Lamp Frame/Bezel and signal light are off. Looks like sheet metal in the way. This is the drivers side.
I'm out now to try. Then off to weld it

Last edited by jmrec100; Sep 17, 2015 at 12:00 PM.
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Old Sep 17, 2015 | 11:41 PM
  #24  
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Got the fender off. Getting it welded in the morning. Had trouble getting the screws out at front at the headlamp Bezel. I drilled a couple of holes to access them. Then was able to get the others to get the fender off. What a pain in the ****.

Pics of my hinge. Just about fell off. I bought some steel from Home Depot for the welder to reinforce it as was suggested.

Last edited by jmrec100; Sep 17, 2015 at 11:45 PM.
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Old Sep 17, 2015 | 11:44 PM
  #25  
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ignore this post. Can't fix it or Delete it.



Last edited by jmrec100; Sep 18, 2015 at 11:25 PM.
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Old Sep 17, 2015 | 11:54 PM
  #26  
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Drilled Holes in the front headlamp area
so can get to the Torx Screws




Top hinge just about out.
I'll post the weld when done

Last edited by jmrec100; Sep 18, 2015 at 12:01 AM.
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Old Sep 18, 2015 | 06:50 AM
  #27  
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To stop this from happening hinge need to be cut. Take a good look at it. It bottoms out on itself b4 the stopper reach's it end of travel causing door to pull on thin metal in hinge area .
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Old Sep 18, 2015 | 11:23 PM
  #28  
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That's exactly what happened. The stopper is that flat metal hook looking thing but it doesn't seem to keep the door from that full swing. I looked at the passenger side. Same situation but the hinge still looks ok. Few passengers if ever. That seat if for my tools.




Did get it welded. Added some plates to the outside. Ugly but not much area to weld. It'll hold for 20 more years.
Just have to put the fender back on this weekend and replace all the push fasteners Got them at Lowes, thanks for the help Cliffy.
I want to replace the torx bolts with socket head cap, button head . Are they standard US thread. I imagine it is since it's '94. Guessing they are 1/4-20 or 1/4-28. Anyone know?

Last edited by jmrec100; Sep 18, 2015 at 11:28 PM.
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