djgrayxj

Note from DJ
OP disregard this statement from Post #30 by me.
QUOTE: “I believe #30 was powered by one of the Orange Fuse Links”.
After looking at different schematics that are in my 88XJ factory paper electrical manual that I purchased on E-bay; one shows it being an Orange Fuse Link and another one shows it being Green Fuse Link; so I’m not sure at this time.

I’m including a photo of Diagnostic Connector D-1. It is a 6 pin connector with a Yellow cap on it.
You can see it in the top-left corner of DFlinstones post #27 with his meter view. It is attached by one of the notorious crimp connector wrapped in duct tape to the Fuse Link wire that supplies voltage to fuel pump relay #30.

If cavity #5 has voltage that will lead us in one direction; if there is no voltage that is a hint to search in a different direction.

SEE Post #36 for updated photo of Diagnostic Connector D-1

darknezz7

Theres only .9v there, with key off.

Already cleaned all the starter relay terminals, did that at the dunes cause I thought it was the problem.

I've only found two links in that area, a yellow wire one and an orange with black stripe.

DFlintstone

Looks like just two screws holding that bank of relays. I might want to check the connection from the wire to the connector for that #30 socket, it might be ugly under there.

I wonder if that 9V drops off with a load, like if you jump 30 to 87 with the relay out, does it plummet, or run the pump.

No harm in probing that #5 at the Port DJ posted. I myself am not sure how that's wired.

Having the bank of relays out would give you an opportunity to run a jumper with a 20 Amp inline fuse if that seems necessary.

My Start Relay looks exactly the same as DJ's excellent pic, with three pairs of fused links off the big post. (the idea there is that wire will fry before too much current or a short starts a fire. One might look like it's been hot, or even just feel wrong.

djgrayxj

Note from DJ
OP you only found 0.9 Volts or 9 tenth of volt at Diagnostic Connector D-5 is that correct?

I did some physical checking on my 88 earlier this morning; I disconnect my battery and removed all of my fuse links from my starter relay.
One blue wire one that goes the alternator
One ring connector with two green wire fuse links
And two ring connector with one green fuse link and one orange fuse links connected to each
One of the green orange combinations was the feed to fuel pump relay #30 and D-5 but that doesn’t help the search very much.

It is 6PM hear in the Los Angeles area and it is 105* in the shade and my 88 is on by driveway in the sun so I will not be doing any hood up searching till tomorrow early AM.

But in the mean time I will take some time to look at my electrical manual and see if I can finger out another plan of attract.

DFlintstone

All excellent stuff DJ. Excellent catch as well on the decimal, (.9). Saving this thread as an example of how this forum works. I'm probably sealing some of your stuff to put in that link in my sig with random renix stuff. Jazzed with my (<$50 total spent) "new" puter', off ebay, days of software stuff, the wiring diagrams are not in yet.

I usually look at threads as "what would I do". At this point doing a nice clean fused jump to the bottom of the relay cluster for 30 there, I might do. Solder and shrink tubing is not expensive.

"One of the green orange combinations was the feed to fuel pump relay #30 and D-5 but that doesn’t help the search very much."

A guy might see which is connected to D5, and focus there.

A guy could focus there, push a small pin through the insulation down stream and check volts. (even with things on). See that they look and feel OK.

Wet and drizzling here DJ. Chrome I polished Wednesday is rusted brown today.

djgrayxj

Note from DJ updated photo of Diagnostic Connector D-1

djgrayxj

Note from DJ Regarding Fuse Link Testing on Renix Jeeps
Step by Step Procedure:
1. DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY.
2. Locate the Starter Relay directly behind the Battery.
3. Take a wrench and remove the nut on the large connector holding the Fuse Links to the Starter Relay.
4. Chose and remove the Fuse Link to be tested off the stud on the Starter Relay.
5. Replace the nut removed in #3 and tighten the nut finger tight; this step will not only secure the rest of the Fuse Links but prevent LOSING THE NUT which is not a normal nut.
6. If you look at the attached photo you will notice that I placed a small piece of wood under the Fuse Link that I was testing.
I decide to insert the piece of wood under the Fuse Link for two reasons, it provide a stable back up for the wire that I hand to puncture with some sort of sharp object for a downstream connection point need in the testing and it prevented a bloody finger if I had attempted to hold the wire in my fingers and something went wrong with the puncture attempt.
NOTE: I used one of the special large headed pins that I have collected for back probing connector as well as puncturing wires; but CCKen has suggested using Safety Pins for back probing and they would have worked very well in this situation as well, probably even better if I had collected an assortment of them prior to the time I preformed this test procedure.
7. Now it’s time to reconnect the battery temporally.
8. Grab your test meter of choice [This testing procedure can be completed much easier if your meter has alligator clips on the end of the test probes and you have at least one jumper wire].
9. If you look at my attached photo I attached the jumper wire between the positive battery terminal on my battery and the ring connector of the Fuse Lint to be tested.
10. Next I attached the black lead from my meter to my battery negative post.
11. Next I turned my meter to DC voltage position.
12. The final step in this test procedure was to connect the red test probe of my meter to the pin that I had inserted through the insulation downstream on the Fuse Link being tested.
My meter showed battery voltage of 12.60 volts which indicated this Fuse Link was GOOD.
My photo could have been better but it shows the general idea of how to hookup the meter.

djgrayxj

Note from DJ to OP darkness7
The ball is in your court now, no more post by you closes this post as far as I’m concerned.

darknezz7

Thanks for all the info, I'll do that testing this week sometime when I have time.

Its funny cause the Jeep is running better than it has in awhile, smoother quicker starts, smoother running, more power, better shifting and things are working that never have like the digital clock on the dash. I changed all the fuses and have cleaned about every electrical connection.

Now to figure out what this squeaking in the front is while driving, goes with speed, not rpm and doesn't do it when cold.

DFlintstone

Alex, I'll take U Joint for $1000. A dry ujoint bearing will squeak, (and get hot also).

In 4 WD in park you can jack one front just off the ground so you can rotate the tire back and forth and look for play at the joint. No play is OK, you shouldn't see any movement. Or after pulling off the freeway maybe feel for heat. Or if you happen to have an IR temp gun....

darknezz7

Yea I already figured I got sand in a U joint, gonna grease them up really good and see if it goes away. I already jacked the front up and its not in the wheels.

I replaced the front joints a few years ago but with crapzone ones, I have new hd spicers and a new cardone joint to put in, once again just not much time to work on my own rigs.

If it doesn't go away with grease I'll pull the front drive shaft for now.

djgrayxj

Note from DJ to OP darkness7
First question are you still operating your Jeep with your Fuel Pump Relay socket jumpered?

Second question have you taken the time to look closely at the collection of Fuse Links on the Starter Relay; especially the Green Orange combination? What you are looking for is discoloration of the wire in comparison to a like Fuse Link. The other quick test is to takes the wires and places them between your fingers and feel for blister in the insulation or soft spots.

DFlintstone

Too bad they eliminated the Disco for yours..Or wait...if the 4-WD options on your shifter include "full time" you have a 242 T-Case. If it's just HI and Low it has a 232. (btw, one of my three has the 242 bezel, but a 232 T-Case)

Both have the front freewheeling in 2-WD. Just that the 232 with the disco also separates the RF axle.

Don't sweat it. I drove one of mine a couple of years with that thing chirping. Would hear it past guardrails and such to bounce sound back.

X-Ray_89_XJay

SImilar issue :

Hit speed bump to hard and engine shutoff and will not stay running..starts then dies immediately...any ideas?

RenixChaseR

I know it was forever ago, but did you ever figure out what the issue was?