Flooded the chief the other night and she started, but later the next day it wouldn't start so I bought a new starter rotor cap n button and plugs now when I start it,it runs likes crap until it warms up then it runs fine until it cools off then it runs like crap again please help

 

That's a odd one, unfortunately nothing comes to mind but let me do a little thinkin and I'll get back to ya man

 

Biggest players in cold running are CTS and IAT.

Coolant Temp Sensor is mounted in a coolant galley on the driver's side of the block and the Intake air temp sensor is mounted in the intake manifold behind the throttle body a ways.

Do you have a multi-meter and know how to use it?

 

I fear I may have jumped timing she won't start at all all it will do is turn over and over then backfire then turn over while backfiring but no start

 

These engines just don't jump time. Backfiring out the exhaust or through the intake?

 

Listen to ^^THIS^^ man. We have a couple very knowledgeable guys, he is one of the best.

 

Ok so I left some information out. My bad , so when it did this rough idle we cleaned the whole distriber by taking it all the way out,the shaft and all and my buddy turned the motor over with the whole distributer out of the engine from what I understand it's bad but fixable by pulling the 1st spark plug out setting a screwdriver in its please rolling the motor by hand til the cylinder hits the top then drop the distributer in and put it back together is this accurate

 

And it's backfiring through the exhaust

 

Setting Your 4.0 at #1 TDC
　
With #1 spark plug removed, turn the engine over clockwise using the 3/4" front crankshaft bolt. You will see the degree marks on your front cover. You will see the timing mark on the balancer. Mark them with chalk or white-out. While turning the engine over, put your finger/thumb over #1 spark plug hole. As the mark on the balancer approaches the marks on the front cover, if you are coming up on #1 TDC, pressure in the cylinder will push on your finger. If there's no pressure, you're at #6 TDC and need to crank the engine over until you see the marks coming together and you get pressure. Set the mark on the balancer to the 0 mark on the front cover.



Remove the distributor cap and cut a "window" into the side of the distributor cap at the #1 spark plug wire post . The "window" should be large enough to allow easy visual inspection of the position of the distributor rotor at the #1 spark plug wire post. Reinstall the distributor cap.

Install a ¾" wrench or socket onto the vibration damper retaining bolt. Rotate the engine in a clockwise direction until the #1 cylinder is at top dead center. Align the timing mark on the vibration damper with the "0" degree mark on the front cover timing scale. The tip of the distributor rotor should be near the #1 spark plug wire post.

Disconnect the distributor electrical connection. Remove the distributor holddown clamp, holddown bolt and distributor. Remove the distributor cap and rotor.

Place the distributor housing upside down in a soft jaw vise. Scribe a line 1/2 inch from the end of the distributor locating tab. Cut the distributor locating tab at the scribed line with a saw.

Remove any burrs and metal filings from the distributor. Reinstall rotor.

If necessary, using a flat blade screwdriver, turn the oil pump gear drive shaft until the slot is slightly past the 11 o'clock position. The oil pump gear drive shaft is accessible through the distributor mounting bore in the engine block.

Visually align the modified locating tab area of the distributor housing with the holddown clamp bolt hole.

Turn the rotor to the 4 o'clock position.
Lower the distributor into the engine block until it seats. The rotor should now be very close to the 5 o'clock position.

Reinstall the distributor cap with the cutout "window". Rotate the distributor housing until the trailing edge of the distributor rotor tip is just departing from the #1 spark plug wire post terminal .

Reinstall the distributor holddown clamp and bolt.. Reinspect the position of the rotor to the #1 spark plug wire post to insure that it has not moved.

Install the new distributor cap, reconnect the distributor electrical connections.
Revised 07/03/2012

 

Ok did that n it still doesn't start I'm at my breaking point in 5 months I've dumped 1500.00 in this jeep to keep it running and now it won't run at all I don't know what to do

 

We can get it goin again, may just take a little time and hopefully no more money or not much. Since uve pulled and reinstalled the distributor, are you sure that you have the plug wires in the right spot on the cap? I kno it's a simple question but we gotta look at the simple stuff too. I had a few months on mine that it wouldn't start when it was hot, and I threw about $800 at it. It would do good for a week then act up again then more parts and good for a week then act up again. One day it died and wouldn't restart at all. Turned out to be a fuse that was installed wrong... :/ wasnt in the fuse block all the way

 

Ok here is the update got her in tune last nite all cylinders are clear it's in the right firing order and all spark plugs are firing at the same time each cylinder is at 110 compression but she still won't fire up she has spark ,fuel&compression what else could it be ......maybe a fuel pressure regulator I just don't know n e more

 

Ok so I apparently burned the cord on my CPS problem fixed

 

Awesome!

 

I thought you had spark?