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1987 Jeep Cherokee Barn Find Video Part 1

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Old 01-17-2015, 10:49 PM
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Default 1987 Jeep Cherokee Barn Find Video Part 1

Here's a link to my
...

Let me know what you think, obvious problems I'm going to have, and whatever else you want to share... I know nothing about Jeep's except what I've learned from you great people here, so let me know.

Thanks for looking!
Old 01-18-2015, 12:03 AM
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You might have a gem there, with a couple hundred K left on it. 10 years? I'd pull the plug on the pan, drain the oil, pull the filter. Put any filter (or a NAPA gold), and about any oil in it. (since you are gonna change it right away).

Short of dropping the tank...On the drivers side fender there is a ceramic ballast resistor. The rear-end of that is power straight to the fuel pump. It's OK to give that 12V.

Fuel is pumped to the rear of the fuel rail, then it goes past the regulator on the front of the rail, and back to the tank. In your shoes, I might add 5 gallons of fresh fuel, (or not), then rout that line to the rear rail to a can, then put power to the pump and see. If you hear the pump run, run it dry.

Btw, the pump will only run a second or two, waiting for a signal that the engine is running, unless you put power to that rear wire.

The hypoid oil in the diffs, ages well, but should be changed. The transfer case and AW4 automatic take dexron III.

You can gravity bleed the brakes, (RR, LR, RF LF), just loosen the bleeders, and watch the res, don't let it run out!

So there are some ideas. Lot's might be better than you might expect! You have a Renix Jeep! (the good kind )

Right on top if you click on my signature is Cruisers tips, supper info for you there.

Last edited by DFlintstone; 01-18-2015 at 12:27 AM.
Old 01-18-2015, 12:07 AM
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Looks like the PO eliminated the HCV and had some problems with the cap sealing tight to the bottle.
Old 01-18-2015, 12:50 AM
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Nice catch Djb. My "new to me" 90 came with a tall cap, with a clamp on it. I forward this because you are our specialist. I asked the seller about that clamp. All he could say is that is how he got it (2111 maybe), so he left it.
Old 01-18-2015, 05:32 AM
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Get the volvo cap and throw that other away from pressure bottle...Get a 703-1396 cap from Napa for the bottle.

Last edited by freegdr; 01-18-2015 at 07:07 AM.
Old 01-18-2015, 10:03 AM
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Definitely need new battery cables too.
Old 01-18-2015, 01:47 PM
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Thank you all!!!

DJB, HCV? What do I need, or do I need to fix this?

Also does anyone know where that plug is suppose to go at around the 5 min mark in the video?

I'll go get that Volvo cap soon...

More to come.
Old 01-18-2015, 04:25 PM
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I see now it's a 5 speed. On the TB there should be a flat connector with three wires, (engine side of the TPS). If it has a tps that also works in an auto, there will be an extra square 4 wire plug with three wires on it. I can't make it out in the VID, but that is a likely suspect. The TPS for a manual is nutty spendy, but that one works fine.
Old 01-18-2015, 04:33 PM
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nice find.
what rear axle? that puppy could have the d44
Old 01-18-2015, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by mjhaman
HCV? What do I need, or do I need to fix this?
Heater Control Valve. It is a vacuum operated valve that sits near the fire wall (where the heater hoses are spliced together now) that only allows coolant into the heater core when the heat is on. They were eliminated on later model XJs and don't really serve a useful purpose (unless your blend doors are stuck) since the blend doors in the HVAC unit don't allow air to go over the heater core unless the heat is on anyhow. It is a common failure part and many people just eliminate them when they fail there is no real need to replace it, just make sure the vacuum line is plugged if you don't replace it. If you do want to replace it I think an new HCV runs around $20.


In any case you should probably replace the all heater and rad hoses since they are all at least 12 years old if it has been sitting since 03 (if it were my vehicle I would just swap the whole cooling system over to the 91+ style open system since they have less issues than the 87-90 closed system, in addition to the hoses you would need a 91+ rad and recovery bottle to do this and replacing the water pump would and thermostat be a good idea too while it is drained an apart, all these parts will only run you $200-300), the same applies to the serpentine belt, and changing all fluids.

Last edited by dmill89; 01-18-2015 at 06:04 PM.
Old 01-18-2015, 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by freegdr
Get the volvo cap and throw that other away from pressure bottle...Get a 703-1396 cap from Napa for the bottle.
Does that work for you? Mine leaked until I got it nutty tight, then it cracked.
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Old 01-18-2015, 10:37 PM
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Thanks for all the time and great advice and explaination! Love this forum!
Old 01-18-2015, 11:01 PM
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Congratulations on your barn find. Once you have everything sorted and your XJ is road worthy you're gonna find that your face will start to hurt any time you drive the Jeep. That is caused by the grin you'll have on your face, it's called the "Jeep grin". You will forget you even have a Chevy truck. After a year or so you will have empty pockets and bank accounts, the UPS truck will be at your house every day, and you will be combing craigslist and boneyards for parts. Welcome to the sickness my friend, I hope you have an understanding wife.
Old 01-18-2015, 11:02 PM
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We all learn as we pass it along! (an nou I cn tipe n spel to)
Old 01-19-2015, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by DFlintstone
Does that work for you? Mine leaked until I got it nutty tight, then it cracked.
Im open system got tired of that bottle and cap dance.


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