W91

Hello,
I was just on my way home from work and my jeep quit out on me. I all of a sudden was making a turn I felt it lose power and then stalled out. I had this problem a few weeks back but it was when I shut it off and went into a store. I came back out and it just kept cranking over, strong, but just not firing. I pushed the fuel pressure test connection on the rail 4 times quickly and she fired back up.
Tonight I did the same thing, after 30 minutes of looking everything over, once again she fired back up got myself home. I very very quickly read up on this issue. CPS being number one, though the previous owner said it had been changed out.

Where should I start? She does run right now. My temp was in the middle, no CEL, recently changed alternator and battery terminal that was frayed and I multimetered it no voltage drop.

2000 Jeep cherokee sport.

Thank you

W91

So I got it into work this morning, I let it run for a hour, tried turning left and right to see if maybe something would happen. Finally she stalled out again. It fired back up but very rough. I'll be calling the dealership today for a new cps

In the mean time should I do anything else?
Thank you!

SteveMongr

I would check for stored codes. CEL does not have to be triggered for codes to be stored.

W91

I would have to get a scanner correct? Do I need a specific or special one?

XJNate97

I had this same issue with mine. Do you know what your fuel level was in the tank when the issue occurs? On 1997-2002? XJs the fuel pump assembly has a slide with a rubber sleeve gasket instead of just a fuel hose or rail and when the sleeve gets hard it doesn't seal the the pickup tube and sucks air into the fuel system. I fought this on my 97 XJ for about a month or so until my brother told me what the cause was. When you pushed the fuel rail valve did you get any air out of it? If so this is more than likely the culprit. I hope this helps!

SteveMongr

Auto parts stores will pull codes or free. OBD2 scanner is what it is referred to, very basic ones can be had for $40

W91

I just called and they are all rented out. I called my buddy and he's going to swing by with it. I'll get back with any codes.
Thank you!

Edit: I would drive it there but I don't want to be stuck there if I can't get it started again

W91

We were able to get stored codes, heres what I got using a chart on the fourm.
1494 Leak Detection Pump (LDP) pressure switch problem - electrical or the pump itself.*

1391 Sometimes, I can't see the crank or cam sensor signal

351 Coil #1 is not reaching peak current at the right time*

SteveMongr

I'm not familiar with the coil packs on the 2000 models. Here is some reading to familiarize you with those codes.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/cod...2/#post2957768

tjwalker

The one to concentrate on is the P1391 and most often, when it is not accompanied by a P0340 (missing cam signal issue), what I have found is the root cause of the problem is usually the crankshaft position sensor.

I'd swap it out with a new Mopar crank sensor purchased directly from Jeep. Aftermarket crank sensors are "hit and miss" with a lot of miss.

When you get it running again, I would clear any remaining codes, then run it for a bit and see if the other codes return. It's not impossible that you have more than one thing going on here; ie: the leak detection pump code isn't going to prevent your engine from starting and could be a separate issue.

Good luck and keep us updated!

W91

I apologize I completely skimped over your comment you posted earlier. When the jeep died I didn't have a light on me besides the outside lights of the gas station. So I'm really not sure however I will try to rule that in, or out tmrw. Thank you for that.

I will start reading tonight. Thank you!

I called the dealer today, he has the part 113$ plus tax. But I had read that going aftermarket was very hit and miss, so that was immediately out.

Well looks like I got a fun load of work ahead. I'm sure I will have updates soon, thank you for all the help!

XJNate97

Its good man. I would DEFINITELY check the crank sensor first! I replaced it on mine the day I bought it and it cleared the crank/cam code mine was throwing Keep us updated on it so we can be sure you get back on the road

W91

UPDATE:
I had to bring it to the shop the U joints were so shot, and I had no time last week to work on it. He gave me such a great price to do the U joints, crank sensor. He also put in a cam sensor. He also got me a sweet deal on rims and tires so I upgraded to 35". Needless to say after he did a few more things including wheel bearing hubs, I walked out 2,300$ hit but she runs once again and looks better than ever!
Thanks for all the help everyone. I appreciate the quick responses just wish I could've had the time to do it all, always next time for something else.
-W