bryweb

Noah,

The correct forum protocol is to start a new thread, your question has no relation to the discussion here.

Mark,

The only way it would not have a 0331 head is it was replaced, and even then it might have had a fixed 2002-04 0331 TUPY head off a WJ, not sure if companies like Clearwater that make replacement heads stamp their names into it, and ya... $11K is ridiculous $$$ for an 01 or any year.

Even the 99 for $4500 is high, but I would definitely look at it over the 01, 140K miles on these Jeep 4.0L engines is just breaking them in, with proper oil changes they will almost always go over 300K miles, The 99 will also have the preferred Dana 30 High Pinion axle, where 00-01 have the Dana 30 Low Pinion axles (about 35% weaker), 98-99 are the preferred XJ years to buy in my opinion, 97 was kind of a bastard child but OK (1 year only trans, some part changes mid year, etc), but 96 is OK if you like the older interiors.

Noah Wallace

Sorry I didn't see the protocol in the user manual. I haven't been able to find how to post a new thread. Perhaps you could enlighten me with this info and then I wouldn't be disrupting your thread.

bryweb

The reason is if you are searching thing on Forums you don't want to read about a problem not related to the thread your researching, so its a fairly common rule to keep someone threads on topic, sorry if I came off as a Jerk, was not my intent.

For a question on stock XJ equiptment go here https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/

Then look for the "New Thread" button.



Rules can be found here:

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/announcement-please-read-cherokeeforum-com-rules/

And how to or FAQ here:
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/faq.ph...eading_posting

Hope that helps.

Noah Wallace

Thanks... yeah that new thread icon i can never see for some reason

Noah Wallace

Any chance you still have advice for me?

paroxysym

just read through this whole thread, cracking the head on my 01 is always in the back of my mind. I bought mine alittle over a month ago- flushed the coolant(was pretty gross) and changed the thermostat while I was in there. did all the fluids, tune up, etc... so far so good at 131k.


I looked for the 0331 stamp on the drivers side and couldn't find it- makes me wonder if the heads already been replaced? I have no records on it, the valve cover doesn't have a factory oil cap. I think it could use another coolant flush, but temps stay below 210, hell took it on a 3hr road trip and the temps never saw near 210 in 30 degree weather. also oil pressure is above 20psi at idle and around 50 cruising...

Tbone289

Don't get too stressed out about it. If you find that you do have the 0331 casting, just have a oil analysis done periodically and watch for telltale signs of an issue (loss of coolant, overheating, lower oil pressure, misfires, etc.) If the signs start showing, do some testing (gasses in coolant, cylinder leakdown). Those signs are something you should be aware of anyway, especially on an 18 year old vehicle, so it's not like its a burden to keep an eye on things.

If it's your only daily driver, think about being proactive and buying an aftermarket head. I DD a 2000 with 0331 and 158K miles. No problems so far, but I always have a backup vehicle.

paroxysym

yea im pretty mindful of the signs. bought a scanner, check the coolant periodically. I do DD this, its my sole vehicle(all I need really) so I did plan on buying an aftermarket head just in case

InlineSix

Looks like it is my turn to join the 0331 club. I purchased my 2001 XJ in December/2017 with 148K on the odometer. After doing some basic repairs, I began to notice the posts about the 0331 head issues. I contacted the previous owners to see if they had done the repair, NOPE. Following the many helpful guidelines on the forum I kept a close eye for any signs of cylinder head cracks. I noticed that my anti-freeze was going down at a rather slow rate, about a pint every 1,500 miles. My oil pressure is also at 50 PSI driving and drops to 20 PSI at idle, but from most of what I've read, that isn't too concerning. My concern was the slow decrease in coolant, although my coolant looked fine and I haven't noticed any green drops on oil cap or milky substances.

I did my first oil change since owning the XJ and following the recommendations of many, I submitted my oil to Blackstone Labs. (as a side note, I have to say, the amount of helpful information on this forum is tremendous). Got the report back and there's antifreeze in the coolant, about 0.5%. I have another car to drive and will be switching to that car over the weekend. Talking to Blackstone they made it sound like the sooner I can get the head replaced, the better, but this also isn't a huge issue currently. I don't mind getting it done because it's been stressing me out to know that my 0331 head is a ticking time bomb. So there is my situation. Here's a link to my Blackstone Lab report; LINK

I'm not too mechanically inclined and will likely take the Jeep to a local shop that has done work for me before ($65/hr labor). I've got couple questions before that though..

1. Clearwater Heads seem to be the forum recommendation, however, there are a couple concerns regarding their quality and reviews. I like their warranty, but wonder if they are still the best option in 2018. I know this topic has been discussed over the last two decades, but haven't seen too much recent opinion.

2. There's this guy on ebay that sells reman TUPY heads that i'm also considering. I like the idea of OEM quality. Obviously no warranty, but getting a TUPY head appeals to me. Am I crazy? LINK TO EBAY TUPY HEAD

3. What other parts should I replace at the same time? I noticed there are some listings in the opening of this thread, but have seen conflicting information around the interwebs. Does anyone have a specific list and may even part numbers?

4. Does that list change if I buy a new head vs reman TUPY head?

5. I like to source everything myself so I can guarantee the quality, but is there any issue if my mechanic picks up parts he needs from NAPA? Essentially are there some parts you would want to make sure are OEM?

Any other things I should be aware of or note? I have the benefit of time and hopefully catching it plenty early. I really enjoy this jeep and the 4.0 inline 6 and would like to keep it running as long as possible.

Thanks so much for any and all help.

Tbone289

With those potassium and sodium numbers and wear metals showing, I wouldn't drive it until the head is replaced. I have the 0331 head w/160K miles and my sodium/potassium numbers are 84/11 with no antifreeze % and normal wear metals. It is good to see however that your copper levels are normal.

I've not seen a negative review for Clearwater heads here in the forums, and that's what I plan to go with in the future.

dave1123

Been there! I bought a "Clearwater" head from Odessa Cylinder Heads in Clearwater FL and have about 75K miles on it. It was $455 complete with new valves and free shipping BOTH ways (core return). There's a $100 core charge if you don't return it in 30 days. It's also drilled for a rear temp sensor if needed. If you don't use it, make sure it's sealed! Mine was painted over and I didn't know it was there until it started leaking 3 days later!

It's part number CHR238ZN for 99-07 6CYL 4.0 OHV 0331 NEW CASTING (call 800-572-1963)

InlineSix

Thanks Tbone and Dave! I'll stick with the Clearwater head and do my best to keep from driving the XJ.
Regarding additional items for the cylinder head swap..

Any recommendations on the gasket kit? OEM or aftermarket?
Should I replace all the cylinder head bolts?
What about pushrods, cams and rockers? Keep them all or replace?

Thanks again for any help.

dave1123

Check the rocker faces for valve wear. It they've got pockets worn in them you really should replace them. Check the pushrods for consistent length and straightness. The rocker pivots are as hard as granite so should be alright, but keep them with their rockers. When you install the rockers, try to tighten the studs on closed valves one cylinder at a time. If you tighten them so they depress the valve spring, they tend to twist and wind up off center of the valve. I suggest pouring oil over the rockers before you install the valve cover.

Yes! You can't go wrong with new bolts.

I used a Mahle-Victor Reinz layered steel head gasket.

InlineSix

Thanks again for the advice. I've purchased a new set of radiator hoses, thermostat, and water pump (Gates). Any reason that I shouldn't have all those replaced when they are in there working on the cylinder head? I've not had any issues with overheating, the Jeep sits just below 210 when warmed up.

PatHenry

Definitely have that stuff done at the same time - there's every reason TO have them replaced while they're in there. With all the stuff that has to come out to slap the new head on it will make the water pump and hose replacement super easy. As far at the t-stat, that's an absolute yes. I would question anyone that puts in a bright and shiny rebuilt head and then goes and puts a crusty old t-stat back in.

It goes without saying that the oil must be changed (in the event you want to pick up stuff for that too - though the Napa oil filters are excellent).