Jeep Cherokee Forum https://www.cherokeeforum.com/ A Jeep community for off-roading, modifications, and anything else Cherokee related! en Thu, 21 May 2026 04:38:35 GMT vBulletin 60 https://www.cherokeeforum.com/images/misc/rss.jpg Jeep Cherokee Forum https://www.cherokeeforum.com/ water leaking https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/water-leaking-276179/ Mon, 18 May 2026 19:53:02 GMT Hello Everyone My little baby has not been driven or started for a few months until today. She is my emergency backup vehicle in case the daily driver goes down. I have my van but its limited to... Hello Everyone

My little baby has not been driven or started for a few months until today. She is my emergency backup vehicle in case the daily driver goes down. I have my van but its limited to a few mile radius before it over heats.
There was nothing wrong with the Jeep when it was parked other than a few more minor issues but that's for another time.

I am thinking the water pump has failed based on water leaking out which I can't be 100% sure where but the engine sounds rough which was not that way when parked.
I will attach drop box links to the image and the red arrow shows where water is there but was not able to catch it leaking but when running it leaks even more.
I also will include two links for video's. One the small one is of the engine bay and the other is a longer video from the front of the vehicle where you can see water just a dripping.


engine bay


]]> Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here rgs80074 https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/water-leaking-276179/ Chasing a crank/no start but it’s different this time I swear https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/chasing-crank-no-start-but-s-different-time-i-swear-276177/ Mon, 18 May 2026 06:12:22 GMT 1999 Jeep Cherokee XJ 4.0 AW4 automatic: I’m chasing an intermittent crank/no-start and random stall issue where I keep getting P0320 (crankshaft sensor circuit/ignition reference). Sometimes it will... 1999 Jeep Cherokee XJ 4.0 AW4 automatic: I’m chasing an intermittent crank/no-start and random stall issue where I keep getting P0320 (crankshaft sensor circuit/ignition reference). Sometimes it will start and run perfectly (no noises/codes), including one time right after installing a replacement CKP. At one point opening/closing the driver door would bog/stall the engine and then it would crank/no-start again; I crawled out the trunk to make sure it was the door and I’m not losing my mind. I found the driver door jamb switch connector was heavily corroded and had it replaced. It also bogged/died when put into reverse (suspect the NS Switch? unsure if related). I did have a security system with remote start installed by a local shop a year prior and it drove fine until the cel came on. What I’ve done: NTK CKP (Mopar discontinued the part and read that NTK manufactured the part for Mopar), NTK cam/distributor pickup sensor, ignition coil, distributor cap/rotor (no play so I ruled out a bad distributor), copper plugs and wires; all grounds cleaned/tightened including dipstick ground. Im getting fuel pressure and the pump primes for 2-5 seconds. Checked the ASD relay. I did a Big 7 cable set with thicker gauge wiring and new 4 hole injectors from KSuspension. I found it was running rich, I assume because I wasn’t able to put enough miles on after resetting the PCM so it can relearn the a/f ratio. I verified ~5.3V reference present at the CKP connector. What else am I missing? Could it be a shot PCM? I’m at my wits end and would love any advice on what to do next. ]]> Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here dietcoke.degenerate https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/chasing-crank-no-start-but-s-different-time-i-swear-276177/ 2015 Cherokee w/tow package, Transmission Fluid Change - How to https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f87/2015-cherokee-w-tow-package-transmission-fluid-change-how-276176/ Sun, 17 May 2026 23:58:13 GMT Hi, we were finally able to successfully change the automatic transmission FLUID on our 2015 Cherokee. There was so much contradiction and various transmission combos and access points as well as... Hi, we were finally able to successfully change the automatic transmission FLUID on our 2015 Cherokee.
There was so much contradiction and various transmission combos and access points as well as many omissions and mission steps! Such that I had to piece the procedure together and create my own how to notes(sharing below) afterwards, for anyone who is going through the same thing. I am not a professional and I am not an expert. Yet I do try to be thorough and accurate in my sharing. Below is what worked for us and what my understanding is thus far. Don't blame me if yours might be different.2015 Cherokee w/3.2 v6 “Pentastar”, AWD(Active Drive 1), ZF 9 speed transmission(9HP48 ),transfer case & front & rear differentials. W/Optional trailer tow package(dual(not single) piston caliper w/larger-pads front brakes, etc).
-Transmission fluid & other fluids:

Change(PERFORM EVERY 60K MILES or sooner for severe duty. If you have gone much longer than that, after changing and driving the vehicle say 10k miles, do perform another transmission fluid change).



Procedure for 2015 (2014-19 same?) w/Cherokee’s w/9 Speed ZF Auto transmissions, 3.2L=9HP48 trans.

USE Valvoline Maxlife Multi-Vehicle ATF(NOT ATF+4-don’t buy) @ Walmart etc.!(NOT the ATF +4 fluid).

Transmission in total Holds 9-9.5 QTS, BUT you can only Drain & Fill the sump, which holds Only 4-5 QTS.



*NOTE: Models with 4/All wheel drive(aka “Active Drive ..”), also have 2 other components with fluids to check/top off & possibly change if able(read on):

#1, the DK4 P.ower-T.ransfer U.nit-Case. Located behind the engine oil pan(Sends power to the R.ear D.ifferential M.odule unit) &

#2, the RDM’s double compartment oil sumps.

Notes: The front differential is integrated with the PTU and therefore the front differential gets no separate fluid/sump.

In the efficient-normal mode(system has not detected a slipping surface I.e. rain, snow etc), these vehicles are front wheel drive. Rear wheels are activated when automatically called for.



Procedure for PTU(modern transfer case)& Differentials.

(For Transmission-See further below).

Notes:

These all use 75w 90 GL-5 Full Synthetic Gear Oil.

None have a drain plug Because:

These units normally only need:

Metallic debris cleaned from the inside of their magnetic fill plug.

Their fluid condition checked,by dipping your finger into the hole & then finger wiping onto a white cloth/paper towel.

Also topping off of the oil if low at all, and check for leaks.

To add oil into their small fill holes, you’ll need a pointed tip squeeze type bag-bottle or a hand pump.

These do Not need gear oil changing for their life. With normal moderate driving, say at 100k miles, the top of the gear oil is surprisingly clean/still light amber in color, with strong/fresh additives smell.

This is because of several modern changes such as: sealed units(no air-oxidation transfer & no moisture can enter), precision machining, turned off most of the driving time, full synthetic oil.

HOWEVER, with more miles, there can be sludge and wear particles in the lower end of the unit which will accelerate internal wear.

It would be wise to change the gear oils every 150k miles at minimum. Which may double the expected (approx. 200k miles) life span of these unites.

However both the PTU & the RDM’s passenger side sump plug hole have internal gears mostly blocking insertion of reverse pump hose. Although the RDM’s rearward driver’s side sump hole does allow a hose insertion, enabling reverse pumping out the old oil for fresh.

-

The Fill Plug: Located on the passenger side of the PTU, positioned about at the centerline of the unit, covered with a heat shield(10 & 13mm hex bolts).

The last top shield bolt is inaccessible so move the shield away some). Use common a 3/8” square ratchet end to unscrew the plug. Do not over tighten the plug when reinstalling. These plugs have built in sealing washers so no Teflon tape is needed on the plug threads.



PTU & Note:



(If the old fluid smells sweet, it might actually be ATF fluid which different design models can require.

In that case, your jeep is differently equipped than the 2015 Cherokee model discussed here. You’d need to find a procedure that matches your design).



Simply remove upper Driver’s side fill plug & remove drain plug(use an 8mm(or 5/16”) Allen socket) & drain. Reinstall drain plug, after adding leak proof Teflon tape to plug threads(do NOT over tighten a plug). Hand pump ATF fluid into fill hole until it drips out. Reinstall fill plug w/teflon tape on threads.

Note: Differentials: Instead, !:

Front differential (1.5-.6 QTS) & Rear(4 wheel drive models only)(2.2-.3 QTS).

Rear Differential Fill Plug: 26 Ft. Lbs., PTU Fill Plug: 30 Ft. Lbs., PTU Heat Shield: 10 Ft. Lbs.

Friction modifier Note: No Cherokee models offered a mechanical clutch type LSD. So NO bottle of friction modifier additive required. In fact a friction modifier can interfere with a Trail-hawk model’s “Active Drive Lock” electronic LSD.



A major cause of failure of the RDM & Especially the PRU is driving with 4 tires which were Not replaced at the same time.

Always replace all 4 tires with New, at the same time with the same brand and amount of wear. A difference in the overall diameter of any of the tires compared to the others, will cause activation of the clutch packs and on dry surfaces, causing them high stress and wear.



TRANSMISSION FLUID CHANGE PROCEDURE:

9 speed(Note: 8 speed found on other Jeep models, the fill level procedure is Not the same/applicable.)

Ref:
  1. REQUIRED: Allow the engine to cool down somewhat. The transmission/fluid must not be too hot.
  2. Using wire of a coat hanger, cut to about 7.75”, bend into the following small dip stick: The Long straight end must be 140 mm(14 cm) long. So it has a straight long wire tail of 140mm and then the following L bends are above it: Bend an L hook “stop handle” on the top end of the “dip stick” wire. More detail: make the L stop handle: 2 flat sides(1 perpendicular and one parallel to the long end), about 1” each. The long straight end of the stick, starts abruptly, after the 2 perpendicular bends. Rough file the first several inches of the wire bottom end so the fluid will stick/level will be obvious to see. The hook will be inserted to rest on the check plug opening with the long tail inside to touch-measure fluid level. Then extract to measure.
  3. Wear Disposable GLOVES. Turn engine off.
  4. Set the emergency/park brake.
  5. Chock rear tires(with a rock etc). Loosen Only the front driver’s wheel lug nuts.
  6. Using a jack and stand, placed under the lower control arm, close to the tire: Jack up the driver’s front wheel, just until off the ground. So that the front of the vehicle is still relatively level.
  7. Remove the front driver’s side tire. Leave the pass front tire & lugs on!
  8. Start engine & turn the steering wheel all the way to the left. Then turn engine off.
  9. Access the transaxle-rearward’s “check & fill” bolt plug, from the driver’s side wheel well.
  10. It is Not the somewhat lower diagnostic plug which is close to wheel well area. The plug you want, you must reach deep into the wheel well by the steering strut bellows.The bolt is on top of a rearward metal ledge surface.
  11. Remove the plug using an 8mm(or 5/16”) Allen wrench socket. If for some reason you can not remove it, do not proceed to the draining step.
  12. For good access to the bottom drain plug, you will probably need to remove the plastic under engine cover. Use a 10mm socket.
  13. Using a 10mm Allen wrench, loosen the transaxle’s bottom/obvious drain plug.
  14. Place drain pan under and remove plug. Clean plug & area & reinstall the plug, torque to 26 ft. lbs.(do not over tighten). The plug has a built in washer so no Teflon tape is needed on the threads. Which presents a hazard to the transmission if the tape enters it upon the next draining.
  15. Accurately measure the amount of fluid that drained out. (A used plastic oil container with side measurements etc).
  16. Insert a hand pump tool, adding new fluid to the approx. same quantity that previously drained out.
  17. Clean & reinstall the plug loosely.
  18. Start the engine. With a foot on the brake pedal: Idle for 1 min and then shift manually through all the gears(assures trans valve body passages are full of fluid), pausing 2 seconds in each gear. Now shift into park. Leave engine running.
  19. Using display panel on the instrument cluster and the left side select buttons on the steering wheel, select the “#2 Vehicle Info” & down to “trans. temp”. Press the OK button to display. “Vehicle Info” will display after 5 sec.
  20. Using up/down arrows button, select “Trans. Temp”.
  21. Again remove the check & fill bolt plug.
  22. With engine idling in park/neutral.
  23. As soon as the trans temp climbs to 122 F, min.(212 F max), Insert the cut off coat hanger’s long tail, so that the hook is resting outside the plug hole.
  24. Pull the wire out and measure the fluid level. Review chart below against temp display.
IMG_4632.PNG
  1. As needed, add small amounts using a pump. Until desired chart level is achieved. (Also for cross referencing, consider how much old fluid came out).
  2. Reinstall check/fill plug and torque to 17 ft lbs.(do not over tighten).
  3. Assure there are no leaks.
  4. Reinstall tire, torque lug nuts to 100 Ft lbs.
  5. Remove both jack stands and wheel chucks.
  6. Change fluid again in 60k miles.
  7. Check/service the other fluid levels as mentioned above.
Take care


]]> KL Cherokee Tech jimtmcdaniels https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f87/2015-cherokee-w-tow-package-transmission-fluid-change-how-276176/ Sourcing the AC bracket idler pulley bearing (water pump bearing) in Europe https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/sourcing-ac-bracket-idler-pulley-bearing-water-pump-bearing-europe-276175/ Sun, 17 May 2026 21:42:07 GMT Hi all, 1998 XJ 4.0L (LHD, based in Portugal). The idler pulley bearing pressed into the A/C compressor bracket (Mopar *53011002*) is shot. Car is parked until I get it fixed. The two NSK... Hi all,

1998 XJ 4.0L (LHD, based in Portugal). The idler pulley bearing pressed into the A/C compressor bracket (Mopar 53011002) is shot. Car is parked until I get it fixed.

The two NSK references that come up in old threads — 885586 and 665325 — are both basically unobtainable in Europe. US eBay has stock but shipping to Portugal takes weeks.

Also weird: when I check dimensions, 885586 and 665325 are clearly two different bearings, different OD, length, everything. So which one actually fits a '98 XJ? Mine Is completely exploded, can't measure anything.

Asking the hive mind:
  1. Anyone in Europe sourced this bearing recently? Which supplier, which reference?
  2. Can anyone confirm the correct measurements for a '98 4.0L?
  3. Anyone fitted an ***/SKF/Koyo equivalent that actually works and is available in europe?
  4. Anyone parting out an XJ in mainland EU willing to pull a bracket?
Any pointers appreciated, will report back with whatever I find.

Thanks, Richard

]]> Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here RichardCherokee https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/sourcing-ac-bracket-idler-pulley-bearing-water-pump-bearing-europe-276175/ 2019-2023 Jeep Cherokee PTU RECALL as of May 14, 2026 https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f87/2019-2023-jeep-cherokee-ptu-recall-may-14-2026-a-276174/ Sun, 17 May 2026 21:07:27 GMT Hello all, my first post here. FYI: I JUST found out today, as of May 14, Jeep is recalling 61,000 cars to replace the PTU and has no fix yet. Have a look at what the NTSA has to say at... Hello all, my first post here. FYI: I JUST found out today, as of May 14, Jeep is recalling 61,000 cars to replace the PTU and has no fix yet. Have a look at what the NTSA has to say at https://www.nhtsa.gov/?nhtsaId=26V290000 I called MOPAR customer service, and they said they were "caught with their pants down" on this and will not run away from the problem and get it fixed. (they are working on it) He also said that the fact that NHTSA did not say 'stop driving the vehicle' was the good news. Considering what I am reading below, it seems the vehicle can suddenly lose power at any time and cause a 'crash'. They advise that when parking, use the parking brake, and if on an incline, turn the wheels. Oh, and they want you to tell them if you 'feel' any problems when driving. YIKES, what shall we do???

1 Unrepaired Recalls associated with my VIN

May 07, 2026

Manufacturer Recall Number 40D
NHTSA Recall Number 26V-290
Recall Status: Recall Incomplete, remedy not yet available
Summary: Some 2019-2023 MY Jeep Cherokee vehicles may have been built with a two-speed Power Transfer Unit (PTU), which may fail internally. An internally failed PTU can cause an unexpected and unrecoverable Loss of Motive Power at any speed or rolling in PARK.
Safety Risk: A loss of motive power can cause a vehicle crash without prior warning. A vehicle that rolls in PARK can cause a vehicle crash without prior warning or injury to others outside the vehicle.
Remedy: FCA US will conduct a voluntary safety recall on all affected vehicles. The remedy is under development.
Manufacturer's Notes: For more information, visit recalls.mopar.com or call 1-800-853-1403. Please have your VIN ready when calling. ]]> KL Cherokee Tech Orchunter https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f87/2019-2023-jeep-cherokee-ptu-recall-may-14-2026-a-276174/ Rear lighting issues https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/rear-lighting-issues-276173/ Sun, 17 May 2026 04:24:16 GMT So just bought a 91 XJ Loredo and its got its issues. I cant seem to solve the current back lighting issues. It has a driver side brake light that is illuminated constantly, vehicle on or off. I... So just bought a 91 XJ Loredo and its got its issues. I cant seem to solve the current back lighting issues. It has a driver side brake light that is illuminated constantly, vehicle on or off. I found.a fuse that disables it but its also got a random red wire associated with it. Seems like it's always hot with 12V. The other fuses all look ok unless I've missed something. I've shot the wiring at the back harness (disconnecting the driver side light assembly) and the only things getting voltage are the constant 12v line, the blinker, and reverse light. No voltage exists for when the lights are on, no hazards, no brake light (because it's always on). The issues carry onto the passenger side as well with everything being the same minus the always on light; brake light does not work at all. I've verified the bulbs are correct and given they are brand new, I've no reason to doubt they work if the signal were there. All of the front lamps work as they should. Of note, there was trailer wiring connected that I thought was the source of all these issues, but I disconnected it all with no changes following. I'm not sure what the deal is, but I'm at a loss given the harness has voltage at some items and not others.
As I said, this vehicle is new to me and has its issues. The wipers turn on by themselves with hard bumps in the road and anytime I turn right. It's on my to-dos to replace what looks like a very worn wiper/blinker stalk on the wheel, but I'm curious if that could be part of this issue? I've noticed the driver blinker seems to blink at different rates.
Throw your ideas out, I'm at a loss. Photos for reference, and yes I cut the red wire to see if there was any difference between fuse in/out, there is not.







]]> Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here macgyver https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/rear-lighting-issues-276173/ Service Transmission msg P0887 code https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f87/service-transmission-msg-p0887-code-276172/ Sat, 16 May 2026 20:14:23 GMT 2016 KJ..55K. So out of nowhere,cruising down I95 ...service transmission msg. First ever. No aparent side effects then jeep would not accel , no downshift with gas. Tranny temp rises quickly with... 2016 KJ..55K. So out of nowhere,cruising down I95 ...service transmission msg. First ever. No aparent side effects then jeep would not accel , no downshift with gas. Tranny temp rises quickly with almost no movement. Pulled over for 10 min all normal for 30 miles then same thing. Milked it 100 miles home pulled it over every time tranny started "slipping" found code P0887. Confirmed and permanent. Erased the confirmed...still have the permanent. How do i get rid of that? Will check battery and alt later with meter. Info page shows battery v around 13 while running, about 1/4 inch below 14 ]]> KL Cherokee Tech bluejeep2001 https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f87/service-transmission-msg-p0887-code-276172/ Engine/Car Age Question https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/engine-car-age-question-276171/ Sat, 16 May 2026 01:10:29 GMT Hey gang,
I just found the engine ID code which reads: 508MX01
AI tells me it's a 6 inline 4.0 (correct) from 1995 made in August 1st.
A few interesting things though... The car's VIN is from 1987 per the VIN and all the purchase/title information I received.
I will be working on flushing the coolant briefly and I discovered the system was upgraded to an open system.
The car also comes with a C101 connector which I recently just cleaned up if that is helpful for anything.
I also redid the vacuum system using a 1987 renix reference video and I'm assuming the 1995's vacuum system would be different.

I guess my question ultimately is... is my engine definitely from 1995? If so, fantastic, the engine is newer than a 1987.
However, I just renewed the knock sensor and I'm reading the 1995 engine did not have a knock sensor...
I'm generally confused about dates and such. Any help? Can I provide more information?


]]> Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here datoro21 https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/engine-car-age-question-276171/ 91 Jeep Cherokee Laredo https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/91-jeep-cherokee-laredo-276170/ Fri, 15 May 2026 22:02:35 GMT How do you turn off daytime running lights so my stereo system will quit going dim. How do you turn off daytime running lights so my stereo system will quit going dim. ]]> Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here Charlieheun81 https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/91-jeep-cherokee-laredo-276170/ Suggested Resources to Start Building Knowledge https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f87/suggested-resources-start-building-knowledge-276169/ Fri, 15 May 2026 03:45:50 GMT Hello all,

Please let me know what suggestions you have for relatively contained ways to build knowledge around working on my KL's. Off the top of my head, some ideal examples would be:
"this book" has a bunch of great information on the workings of KL's
"this youtube channel" is heavily focused on KL maintenance and has a number of excellent videos
"mopar offers online classes, like x, y, z" here's a link to a few good ones

Obviously, I can search google and youtube, but I'm hoping for something more comprehensive than a vid here, or forum post there. I'll absolutely take any and all suggestions, the more info I have the better, but ideally, I'd MUCH prefer to have a few excellent sources rather than like dozens or more that each have little bits and pieces here and there. I'd like to start building my understanding from the ground up, having owned my KL's for nearly a decade, but only now starting to venture into maintaining them myself.

Thanks! ]]> KL Cherokee Tech INITIALCONDITIONS https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f87/suggested-resources-start-building-knowledge-276169/ 98 Cherokee Sport - Tire Upgrade and Speedo Cal https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/98-cherokee-sport-tire-upgrade-speedo-cal-276168/ Thu, 14 May 2026 15:16:58 GMT Hello friends, 1998 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4wd, Auto, 4" Core Lift. Correctlync steering. Nitto 285/70/17. Can anyone tell me with this info what speedo gear I need to be running.
I know the gears are stock but have no idea what they are. Thank you. ]]> Modified XJ Cherokee Tech Socal Origin https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/98-cherokee-sport-tire-upgrade-speedo-cal-276168/ <![CDATA[Morel Speakers - XJ '98 (does it fit?)]]> https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/morel-speakers-xj-98-does-fit-276167/ Wed, 13 May 2026 16:06:20 GMT Hey guys, how’s it going? I’m looking to replace the original speakers in my 1998 Cherokee XJ Sport with Morel speakers. But recently I saw people saying that Morels are too deep to fit... Hey guys, how’s it going?


I’m looking to replace the original speakers in my 1998 Cherokee XJ Sport with Morel speakers.
But recently I saw people saying that Morels are too deep to fit properly in the front driver/passenger doors of the XJ. Is that actually true?

Does anyone know the maximum speaker mounting depth for the XJ front doors?

My XJ is currently at the shop so I don’t have access to the car right now, and I’m planning to order the speakers already so they arrive in time for installation as soon as the truck is done.


I’ve been researching the Morel Maximo Ultra 602 MKII and they have around 6.4cm mounting depth (about 2.5 inches, right?).
Do you guys think they’ll fit in the XJ doors while still keeping the original speaker grille and without trimming/cutting anything?

Would a small spacer solve it or is 6.4cm already too much for the stock door setup?




Thanks guys!
]]> Modified XJ Cherokee Tech pcrescenti https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/morel-speakers-xj-98-does-fit-276167/ <![CDATA[Pedro's - '98 XJ BUILD]]> https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f46/pedros-98-xj-build-276166/ Wed, 13 May 2026 12:47:02 GMT Hello everyone, how are you guys doing? First of all, nice to meet you all. My name is Pedro, I’m from Brazil and I’ve been a huge Jeep enthusiast for many years. Before talking about the XJ... Hello everyone, how are you guys doing?


First of all, nice to meet you all. My name is Pedro, I’m from Brazil and I’ve been a huge Jeep enthusiast for many years.
Before talking about the XJ itself, before this Cherokee I had two JKs: a 2012 2-door Wrangler and later a 2015 JKU that was fully built for off-road and overlanding. I’ve been into off-roading for years, but about 8 years ago I stopped, sold both JKs, and kind of stayed away from the Jeep world for a while.
But this week I finally got my dream Cherokee XJ!!!
Ever since I was a kid I’ve been fascinated by this vehicle. I always say that for me, the XJ is probably the most beautiful car ever made. I absolutely love the shape, the stance, the presence it has… I don’t know, it has always done something to me.


I’m from São Paulo, Brazil, and I went all the way to Rio de Janeiro to pick it up. On the drive back home (about 500km / 310 miles), at the very first gas station stop, one of the radiator hoses cracked and I had to come back on a tow truck… lol.
But honestly, that didn’t even stress me out. I know that to discover issues like that, the previous owner would’ve needed to drive the car for over an hour for those weak points to show up. The car had been sitting stored away for a while, but it is INCREDIBLY well preserved and original.
So my Rio-to-São Paulo roadtrip got postponed for another day.


My plan for this XJ is to use it as a daily driver and for road trips. I really love the original look and feel of the car, but at the same time my off-roader blood and anxiety already want to start modifying things a "little bit"... hahaha.


The craziest part: it still has cassette tapes in the center console and the original sound system! Until I upgrade the stereo to something modern, I’m literally listening to cassette tapes while driving the XJ… man, that’s incredible.
So to start, I’ll post some pictures of it here for you guys to see, and also list some of the things I’m planning to do to it.


It’s a:
1998 Jeep Cherokee XJ Sport Green
4.0 Automatic
The XJ is SUPER well preserved and has only around 69,000 original miles on it.


In the next post I’ll list the issues a
nd problems I’ve already identified that need to be fixed (nothing big), what I’m currently working on, and also the things I’m planning to do during this first phase of the project.
I already have a few questions as well, but I wanted to introduce myself first and show you guys this beautiful machine before jumping straight into the technical stuff.
So in the next post I’ll go over the problems, the plans, the upgrades, and hopefully get some help and advice from you guys too.
Looking forward to learning from everyone here!




I also want to thank everyone here for welcoming a new member into the community. I hope to exchange lots of experiences, technical knowledge, stories, ideas and everything else with you guys here.
Thanks everyone!


Greetings from Brazil,
Pedro











]]> Jeep Builds pcrescenti https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f46/pedros-98-xj-build-276166/ Power lock woes https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/power-lock-woes-276165/ Wed, 13 May 2026 04:53:22 GMT I am sure this topic has been gone over dozens of times because it seems to be a common issuec, but here I go anyway. When I got the jeep power locks did not work at all, the passenger window only... I am sure this topic has been gone over dozens of times because it seems to be a common issuec, but here I go anyway. When I got the jeep power locks did not work at all, the passenger window only worked sometimes. The way I understand it the passenger window switch is the driver or “master” switch for all other doors. So I figured replacing it would solve all my problems. Well, it sort of did. The window works fine now, however the doors will only unlock. To me, that says the lock wiring is good, and it’s a brand new passenger window switch. So what could prevent it from only locking? Faulty part? Or are there relays somewhere that drive the power locks? Thanks for reading ]]> Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here kuhn_dawg445 https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/power-lock-woes-276165/ High fuel pressure https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/high-fuel-pressure-276164/ Tue, 12 May 2026 20:37:24 GMT So over the weekend I installed a new Delphi fuel pump assembly to replace the failed Precision brand pump. The install really seemed to go well aside from fighting to get the lock ring to thread on... So over the weekend I installed a new Delphi fuel pump assembly to replace the failed Precision brand pump. The install really seemed to go well aside from fighting to get the lock ring to thread on again, lol. But I do feel confident it seated cleanly. After install, the jeep fired right up and idled down nicely. I installed a fuel pressure gauge at the rail and the psi read 49. After a few days I started the jeep in the morning and I noticed the pressure was much higher, in the 56-58 psi range. This of course alarmed me, but I found no leaks or anything obvious, the jeep runs very well, idles nicely, does not have the smell of running rich, no black smoke, the pressure needle doesnt bounce around, but it reads higher than 49.2psi. I bought another gauge to see if maybe it was defective, just installed it, and its reading the same 56-58 psi.
What are your thoughts on this situation? Do I most likely have a defective pump regulator... again? Could a defective fuel pump relay cause this irregularity in pressure? ]]> Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here ReederOne https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/high-fuel-pressure-276164/