Jeep Cherokee Forum - Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here

water leaking

rgs80074 — Mon, 18 May 2026 19:53:02 GMT

Hello Everyone

My little baby has not been driven or started for a few months until today. She is my emergency backup vehicle in case the daily driver goes down. I have my van but its limited to a few mile radius before it over heats.
There was nothing wrong with the Jeep when it was parked other than a few more minor issues but that's for another time.

I am thinking the water pump has failed based on water leaking out which I can't be 100% sure where but the engine sounds rough which was not that way when parked.
I will attach drop box links to the image and the red arrow shows where water is there but was not able to catch it leaking but when running it leaks even more.
I also will include two links for video's. One the small one is of the engine bay and the other is a longer video from the front of the vehicle where you can see water just a dripping.

engine bay

Chasing a crank/no start but it�s different this time I swear

dietcoke.degenerate — Mon, 18 May 2026 06:12:22 GMT

1999 Jeep Cherokee XJ 4.0 AW4 automatic: I�m chasing an intermittent crank/no-start and random stall issue where I keep getting P0320 (crankshaft sensor circuit/ignition reference). Sometimes it will start and run perfectly (no noises/codes), including one time right after installing a replacement CKP. At one point opening/closing the driver door would bog/stall the engine and then it would crank/no-start again; I crawled out the trunk to make sure it was the door and I�m not losing my mind. I found the driver door jamb switch connector was heavily corroded and had it replaced. It also bogged/died when put into reverse (suspect the NS Switch? unsure if related). I did have a security system with remote start installed by a local shop a year prior and it drove fine until the cel came on. What I�ve done: NTK CKP (Mopar discontinued the part and read that NTK manufactured the part for Mopar), NTK cam/distributor pickup sensor, ignition coil, distributor cap/rotor (no play so I ruled out a bad distributor), copper plugs and wires; all grounds cleaned/tightened including dipstick ground. Im getting fuel pressure and the pump primes for 2-5 seconds. Checked the ASD relay. I did a Big 7 cable set with thicker gauge wiring and new 4 hole injectors from KSuspension. I found it was running rich, I assume because I wasn�t able to put enough miles on after resetting the PCM so it can relearn the a/f ratio. I verified ~5.3V reference present at the CKP connector. What else am I missing? Could it be a shot PCM? I�m at my wits end and would love any advice on what to do next.

Sourcing the AC bracket idler pulley bearing (water pump bearing) in Europe

RichardCherokee — Sun, 17 May 2026 21:42:07 GMT

Hi all,

1998 XJ 4.0L (LHD, based in Portugal). The idler pulley bearing pressed into the A/C compressor bracket (Mopar 53011002) is shot. Car is parked until I get it fixed.

The two NSK references that come up in old threads � 885586 and 665325 � are both basically unobtainable in Europe. US eBay has stock but shipping to Portugal takes weeks.

Also weird: when I check dimensions, 885586 and 665325 are clearly two different bearings, different OD, length, everything. So which one actually fits a '98 XJ? Mine Is completely exploded, can't measure anything.

Asking the hive mind:

Anyone in Europe sourced this bearing recently? Which supplier, which reference?
Can anyone confirm the correct measurements for a '98 4.0L?
Anyone fitted an ***/SKF/Koyo equivalent that actually works and is available in europe?
Anyone parting out an XJ in mainland EU willing to pull a bracket?

Any pointers appreciated, will report back with whatever I find.

Thanks, Richard

Rear lighting issues

macgyver — Sun, 17 May 2026 04:24:16 GMT

So just bought a 91 XJ Loredo and its got its issues. I cant seem to solve the current back lighting issues. It has a driver side brake light that is illuminated constantly, vehicle on or off. I found.a fuse that disables it but its also got a random red wire associated with it. Seems like it's always hot with 12V. The other fuses all look ok unless I've missed something. I've shot the wiring at the back harness (disconnecting the driver side light assembly) and the only things getting voltage are the constant 12v line, the blinker, and reverse light. No voltage exists for when the lights are on, no hazards, no brake light (because it's always on). The issues carry onto the passenger side as well with everything being the same minus the always on light; brake light does not work at all. I've verified the bulbs are correct and given they are brand new, I've no reason to doubt they work if the signal were there. All of the front lamps work as they should. Of note, there was trailer wiring connected that I thought was the source of all these issues, but I disconnected it all with no changes following. I'm not sure what the deal is, but I'm at a loss given the harness has voltage at some items and not others.
As I said, this vehicle is new to me and has its issues. The wipers turn on by themselves with hard bumps in the road and anytime I turn right. It's on my to-dos to replace what looks like a very worn wiper/blinker stalk on the wheel, but I'm curious if that could be part of this issue? I've noticed the driver blinker seems to blink at different rates.
Throw your ideas out, I'm at a loss. Photos for reference, and yes I cut the red wire to see if there was any difference between fuse in/out, there is not.

Engine/Car Age Question

datoro21 — Sat, 16 May 2026 01:10:29 GMT

Hey gang,
I just found the engine ID code which reads: 508MX01
AI tells me it's a 6 inline 4.0 (correct) from 1995 made in August 1st.
A few interesting things though... The car's VIN is from 1987 per the VIN and all the purchase/title information I received.
I will be working on flushing the coolant briefly and I discovered the system was upgraded to an open system.
The car also comes with a C101 connector which I recently just cleaned up if that is helpful for anything.
I also redid the vacuum system using a 1987 renix reference video and I'm assuming the 1995's vacuum system would be different.

I guess my question ultimately is... is my engine definitely from 1995? If so, fantastic, the engine is newer than a 1987.
However, I just renewed the knock sensor and I'm reading the 1995 engine did not have a knock sensor...
I'm generally confused about dates and such. Any help? Can I provide more information?

91 Jeep Cherokee Laredo

Charlieheun81 — Fri, 15 May 2026 22:02:35 GMT

How do you turn off daytime running lights so my stereo system will quit going dim.

Power lock woes

kuhn_dawg445 — Wed, 13 May 2026 04:53:22 GMT

I am sure this topic has been gone over dozens of times because it seems to be a common issuec, but here I go anyway. When I got the jeep power locks did not work at all, the passenger window only worked sometimes. The way I understand it the passenger window switch is the driver or �master� switch for all other doors. So I figured replacing it would solve all my problems. Well, it sort of did. The window works fine now, however the doors will only unlock. To me, that says the lock wiring is good, and it�s a brand new passenger window switch. So what could prevent it from only locking? Faulty part? Or are there relays somewhere that drive the power locks? Thanks for reading

High fuel pressure

ReederOne — Tue, 12 May 2026 20:37:24 GMT

So over the weekend I installed a new Delphi fuel pump assembly to replace the failed Precision brand pump. The install really seemed to go well aside from fighting to get the lock ring to thread on again, lol. But I do feel confident it seated cleanly. After install, the jeep fired right up and idled down nicely. I installed a fuel pressure gauge at the rail and the psi read 49. After a few days I started the jeep in the morning and I noticed the pressure was much higher, in the 56-58 psi range. This of course alarmed me, but I found no leaks or anything obvious, the jeep runs very well, idles nicely, does not have the smell of running rich, no black smoke, the pressure needle doesnt bounce around, but it reads higher than 49.2psi. I bought another gauge to see if maybe it was defective, just installed it, and its reading the same 56-58 psi.
What are your thoughts on this situation? Do I most likely have a defective pump regulator... again? Could a defective fuel pump relay cause this irregularity in pressure?

G108 Ground Location

231James — Tue, 12 May 2026 03:29:06 GMT

I have a 2000 jeep cherokee sport. I've seen some threads mentioning the g108 ground and I could never find it. I've seen a lot of people say to stick your head under the dash or show a video feed on YouTube that really wasn't clear. Just thought I'd post a photo here of exactly where I found it in case it may help someone.

This is just below the vent left of the steering wheel. The photo is through the windshield on the driver's side.

I used an 8mm socket to loosen it and add an additional ground strap to the body.

Normal Wear?

ZachAttack2001 — Tue, 12 May 2026 01:22:42 GMT

When I say they are new bearings, they are new bearings. I�d say less than 50 miles on them. Is this normal wear? Or is something else going on

Manuel to auto converting

chimpzz — Mon, 11 May 2026 23:18:55 GMT

I have a 92 xj 4.0 with an ax-15. I recently had the transmission and engine go out at separate times but I tired of the Manuel, I drive a semi all day and it�s the last thing I want to do is hop in another Manuel. I have a 94 xj 4.0 with a aw4 that my buddy rolled and sold it to me for parts. It has everything to make it run and drive. I�m wondering is would I be able to add the tcm and change out my computer and swap everything over including engine, trans and convert mine into an automatic. If so what�s the easiest way to do it right?

thanks

'91 Laredo brake problems

Raanderson — Mon, 11 May 2026 14:59:59 GMT

My '91 Laredo has the ABS system with its matching master cylinder. Is it possible to remove the master cylinder and ABS system....and put old style master cylinder on?

The master cylinder is leaking, and I can't get parts for the ABS system so want to see if I can replace it with the old style.

All suggestions welcome...help! ~Ross

Late model front exhaust insulator bushing

Wabrown — Sun, 10 May 2026 20:12:37 GMT

Does anyone have recommendations for a replacement for the front exhaust insulator on the 1997 and later XJ�s with the AW4? I have the A5208 bushing that is close, but will need some
modifications to work. Any ideas are appreciated.

No crank no start, not sure where to look next, 96 4.0L

katesxj — Sun, 10 May 2026 15:46:32 GMT

Hi all -

I have a challenging no crank no start condition on my 1996 XJ 6cyl 4.0L. When I turn the key, the lights cut out and I can hear what sounds like a "single crank" but then it stops and I just hear a whirring noise and the lights come back on. The battery is not great but I've also tried starting it with a jump and I've charged the battery up to at least 12.7V and there is no change. At first I thought it was a fuel issue since I had 0psi at the rail so I replaced the fuel pump assembly and now I get normal fuel pressure but it didn't change the no start condition. I've tested the starter by having someone look at the gear while I turn the key; the gear pops out as it should and doesn't retract early. The starter gear doesn't appear damaged and there were no metal shavings in it that would lead me to think it was busted up. I've also cleaned the IAC valve (which caused a crank no start condition about a year ago), cleaned the NSS, and tried swapping the ASD and starter relays with others. No change. There is no CEL and no pending codes. I've also cleaned the battery terminal connections and the connections where wires meet the starter, as well as most grounds. I replaced the spark plugs, wires, and distributor cap about 4 months ago to solve a different no start condition where there was black corrosion inside of the cap that was disrupting the firing sequence.

Important to note is that about a month ago I was able to start the car by pressing down on the gas pedal a lot. This would make the engine rev up really high, but then the jeep would run fine and I could drive it far with no issues and no stalling. I have tried this method recently but it doesn't seem to work anymore. I think this is because I replaced the fuel pump, so before pressing down on the gas pedal would simply maintain pressure at the rail.

I have researched online and have not found any similar posts or descriptions of this issue. Any advice or suggestions are greatly appreciated! I would much rather know what is causing this issue than go straight to buying a new battery and starter.

Thank you for reading,
Kate :)

Crank but no start, cant get it running after suddenly dieing.

MartinTheOk — Sat, 09 May 2026 22:23:59 GMT

Hey Team

I was driving my 1989 cherokee home the other day and it suddenly died, I was able to coast to the shoulder then got it towed home.

Attempts to start it would crank but no start.

what I have tried

1) starting fluid - no change
2) replaced ground wire from battery terminal to engine block (casing was melted /cracked) - no change
3) All relays in engine compartment checked, they were all good
3) replaced CPS sensor - no change
4) replaced ECU - no change
5) pulled one of the spark plugs out, confirmed there is spark
6) fuel pump does prime when key in on position, I poked the nipple on the fuel rail and got a spray of gas so I have fuel pressure.

one weird thing I noticed is when I pulled the CPS sensor out I checked the plug going back to the ECU with my multimeter and got around 3.4v from both prongs...im not well versed into automotive electronics but I believe if my googling is correct I should get 5v from one prong and 0 from the other ?

I dont have much automotive experience and am running out of ideas of things I can check myself before having it towed to a mechanic.

you guys have any idea on whats going on ?

Dramatic pictue of my jeep below.