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I currently have 2 12 inch subs in my cherokee and it sounds good and all, but i want this giant box out of the way so i actually have room to put stuff in the back if i go camping or whatever. What are some good setups you guys have that give you good sound quality but dont have to sacrafice room for it?
Here's my setup. I originally ran a RE 8" sub but when I blew it I went with the infinity which had a deeper mounting depth, hence the funky lil spacer. I'm not rattling windows, but sound quality is excellent. Those little infinity subs are surprisingly powerful.
That sub thump box has a mounting depth of 5.25, that sub requires 5.5.
They have a spacer ring to bring that depth to 5.75", and I plan to run a .25" thick rubber ring for a bit more depth for cooling (and some dampening). I was planning on using a rubber mud flap I have lying in my garage that should work perfectly, but I think Soundqubed would say that their woofer is fine with .25" of rear clearance (maybe ask them). They did say that .25 cu-ft per subwoofer was perfect for the 208 8".
Space makes bass - not subwoofer cone size. A solid 8" setup will outperform a thrown together 10" setup easily.
Alternatively, the Sundown SD2 8" would be the perfect sub but is a bit more expensive. 4.75" mounting depth, likes a .25 cu-ft box, will handle 500w+ RMS.;
Here is my setup. 12 inch sub with 600 watts. It sounds great in my opinion, not winning any awards but it hits pretty good. I can fit full golf club bags and all sorts of stuff in there no problem, and the sub is set up to be quick release so I can pull it out in 30 seconds and have that space back. (Excuse the tools and junk, I live in a dorm so I have to keep it there).
the sub is set up to be quick release so I can pull it out in 30 seconds and have that space back.
For me, that usually ends up meaning that thieves can also quick-release it in about 30 seconds
I plan to use as many security screws as I can for the enclosure mounting, and I am considering sacrificing the box by gluing the subwoofer in place when mounting it so it is a permanent install (or you have to mangle the box to get it out). Probably will use some of these security self-tappers; http://www.albanycountyfasteners.com...m?1=1&CartID=0
At least slow the thieves down. Most of em are only to smash-and-grab, not spend time trying to remove a permanently installed subwoofer, or disassemble my interior to try and remove the enclosure
Soundqubed is having a black Friday/cyber Monday sale. The HDS208 4 ohm model sold out on Friday, but they are back in-stock on Amazon.
$88 shipped vs $120 normal retail price. I just bought one because I missed out, and its less than half the price of the Sundown SD2 which was my top choice for a small SPL optimized sealed enclosure. Both subwoofers are designed for .25 cu-ft boxes which the SubThump enclosure roughly matches.
General rule is to leave half diameter of the pole-vent for clearance behind the subwoofer. .25" should be enough but I will probably use a 1" round paddle drill bit to clearance a 1/4" divot for better airflow since the MDF is probably 3/4" (rough math)
Last edited by investinwaffles; 11-28-2016 at 12:05 PM.
There is ample room under front seats for a slim powered subwoofer or two.
I settled on a sealed and powered 10" Rockford Fosgate in cargo area. Box is angled to fit seatback. Sealed boxes are smaller than a ported box, sound different as well. Being self-powered it does not require a separate amp or wiring. A single 10" sub is plenty, an 8" would be more fitting.
For me, that usually ends up meaning that thieves can also quick-release it in about 30 seconds
I plan to use as many security screws as I can for the enclosure mounting, and I am considering sacrificing the box by gluing the subwoofer in place when mounting it so it is a permanent install (or you have to mangle the box to get it out). Probably will use some of these security self-tappers
At least slow the thieves down. Most of em are only to smash-and-grab, not spend time trying to remove a permanently installed subwoofer, or disassemble my interior to try and remove the enclosure
I am definetely not gonna argue with that, luckily I have had that setup for 2 years and so far so good, plus I only have 90 bucks in that setup so I wont cry too hard if it gets stolen (although I might a little, haha). I am hoping to get tint soon so that I can have at least a little more privacy/security.
Thanks. Smittybuilt 'beaver step', solid cast iron. Coated in textured bedliner. Effective for accessing roof basket and as a seat to change into wetsuit.
Thanks for the info guys! Now if i go with the setup that goes in the little cubby in the cargo area will i need to get new wiring for the sub? Or could i just use the wiring from the subs i have and just re route them? I have no knowledge of electrical things of this nature. And i still gotta get my transfer case issue fixed before i do anything
Thanks for the info guys! Now if i go with the setup that goes in the little cubby in the cargo area will i need to get new wiring for the sub? Or could i just use the wiring from the subs i have and just re route them? I have no knowledge of electrical things of this nature. And i still gotta get my transfer case issue fixed before i do anything
You can reuse the wires and everything, if you get a new sub and reuse the amp make sure that the wattage and resistance for the new sub will work with your old amp, but other than that the wires will work for a new sub
You can reuse the wires and everything, if you get a new sub and reuse the amp make sure that the wattage and resistance for the new sub will work with your old amp, but other than that the wires will work for a new sub
11-26-2016, 12:46 PM
Want a new audio setup with more room
