MJ Comanche Tech. Stock & Modified. MJ (86-92)
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The tale of SuperMJ

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Old 01-10-2017, 08:56 AM
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Father in law's brother was there yesterday and I asked him to listen to the engine and tell me if there's anything wrong.

He listened to the exhaust, the engine, various pulleys, intake, and vacuum hoses. He said it sound very healthy and runs good.

I ll take that as good news. Lol
Old 01-11-2017, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
It's even more fun when you have 2 of them......
I'd be happy with one, LOL

I peruse CL every so often, and keep my eyes peeled...average going price for one in poor to fair condition out here is around 4k...

I hate SoCal, LOL
Old 01-11-2017, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by roninofako
I'd be happy with one, LOL

I peruse CL every so often, and keep my eyes peeled...average going price for one in poor to fair condition out here is around 4k...

I hate SoCal, LOL
Come and get my 91 MJ shell
Old 01-11-2017, 12:06 PM
  #124  
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Originally Posted by roninofako
I'd be happy with one, LOL

I peruse CL every so often, and keep my eyes peeled...average going price for one in poor to fair condition out here is around 4k...

I hate SoCal, LOL
I'd take that. Your poor condition still has no rust!

EDIT: Oh wait that's like $60,000 CAD. Never mind
Old 02-03-2017, 09:17 AM
  #125  
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So yesterday afternoon, while waiting for the mud to dry in the house, I decided to drive the MJ in the heated garage and got started on the C101 elimination.

Fairly easy process.

Just undo the outside covers for the wires so I can see which pin outs each wire were connected to.

Did them one at a time. At the same time I removed the single stupid ground wire going through the C101. Put 6 ground wires together and soldered it.

After each splice was soldered together, the heat shrink tubing got shrunk on them. THEN I used a big *** heat shrink over the whole thing. Probably 8" long.

I still need to get split loom.. I thought I had some but I didn't.

I did this because from the day I got it until yesterday it progressively got longer and longer to crank (start) up the engine. Was about 2 seconds to start it when I got it. Lately it took about 8 seconds to do it. Felt like the battery was dying.
After the elimination was completed, the beast fired up within 2 seconds and it was not even feeling like a dying crank anymore. It felt like a horse went straight galloping after you stuck a red hot branding iron in the *******.

I ll say that was a success.

I guess an oil change probably should be next. LOL
Old 02-03-2017, 09:25 AM
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Oh I forgot to add pictures

A basic "before" shot
The tale of SuperMJ-photo645.jpg

I found it was easier to do stuff with cardboard under it so you can see things easier and sorta have a "work surface underneath"
The tale of SuperMJ-photo859.jpg

The stupid ground "crimps". 3 ground wires going into a single wire leading to the C101 then out in a single wire going to 3 ground wires. WTF. You bet that crap got eliminated.
Attachment 298681

All done. Yay
The tale of SuperMJ-photo402.jpg

Such a bull**** piece of crap.
The tale of SuperMJ-photo642.jpg
Old 02-03-2017, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by XJwonders
Oh I forgot to add pictures

A basic "before" shot
Attachment 298686

I found it was easier to do stuff with cardboard under it so you can see things easier and sorta have a "work surface underneath"
Attachment 298684

The stupid ground "crimps". 3 ground wires going into a single wire leading to the C101 then out in a single wire going to 3 ground wires. WTF. You bet that crap got eliminated.
Attachment 298681

All done. Yay
Attachment 298685

Such a bull**** piece of crap.
Attachment 298683
Good deal man. Next up, I need to send to you my fusable link deletion method. It allowed me to use regular fuses instead of fusable links.
Old 02-03-2017, 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Outlaw Star
Good deal man. Next up, I need to send to you my fusable link deletion method. It allowed me to use regular fuses instead of fusable links.
He's all ears.....
Old 02-03-2017, 06:23 PM
  #129  
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You're gonna have a fun time with that manifold break. Sometimes you get lucky welding cast and sometimes you dont. cast steel will weld ok but cast iron is very tricky if you havent done it before. its hard to get a solid weld, if you even can at all. then if you do get it to weld ive seen folks have it break right beside the weld. i have done it before on a toyota manifold and it worked. just be sure and wire wheel it till its shiny and as clean as you can get, then you shouldnt have a problem. another option ive seen work very well, esp if you plan to remove it, is brazing. the good thing about brazing it back together is it is able to flex with heat cycling more than solid cast or a weld fix. but anyways good luck to you and i hope it works for ya. id go the brazing route but its your ride your call and your tools so work with what ya got my friend.

Last edited by Driftunit; 02-03-2017 at 06:26 PM.
Old 02-03-2017, 06:29 PM
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For some reason my computer only showed me the first page lol. so if i missed the manifold fix just ignore me lol. My bad lol
Old 02-03-2017, 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
He's all ears.....
Name:  pun dog.jpeg
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Old 02-03-2017, 10:23 PM
  #132  
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Originally Posted by cleenrob

lmao...
Old 02-04-2017, 08:13 AM
  #133  
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Originally Posted by cleenrob
Pun dog has been running wild this week.
Old 02-04-2017, 08:26 PM
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Hahaha funny
Old 02-04-2017, 08:31 PM
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So today I went and picked up a 4wd external slave ax15, clutch/brake pedals, master to slave cylinders, steering column out of a 94 XJ and the dude gave me a renix full gauge cluster.

Also got a 94 aw4 because he was tired of tripping over it.

The tale of SuperMJ-photo8.jpgThe tale of SuperMJ-photo123.jpgThe tale of SuperMJ-photo729.jpg

So between the jeeps I own and stuff I have laying on the floor, that comes to 3 dana 44's, one dana 60, one ****ty 8.25, 3 transfer cases, 5 transmissions, and 4 engine blocks. Somehow I feel that is not enough. Lol



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