Gmaster

My mj is already lifted enough to clear 33s but barely, once I start flexing or hitting big bumps they rub on the fenders. My brand new bfgs are getting cut up, was thinking about cuttout flares but dont feel like spending 500 bucks, would rather just get a new set of springs. Already got adj track bar with drop mound and drop pitman on the way. I was thinking 5.5" springs but not sure.

jmm0122_

5-5.5" will definitely do it for you, but without longer bump stops you may still hit the fenders with 33's. Have you already installed longer bump stops to limit upward travel on the lift you currently have?

Gmaster

No, I just bought it about six months ago for a new project, it was already lifted, rear is spring over, front looks to have lift springs plus spacers. Rear is slightly higher than the front. As for the stops it looks to be missing them? All it has is metal extensions with holes in them, I believe the bump stops screw into those holes? Who sells the extensions?

Gatchmo5710

It's about bump stops not lift height. I used some poly cool inserts up front and they are great for the price. But air bumps is the way I'm going to go in the future.

Gmaster

Ya when I realized it was missing the front bump stops completely I knew thats why its rubbing so bad, so I have factory replacement stops (screw in style) plus 2in bump stop extensions and a set of 5.5" springs on the way, figured I would fix it right and get rid of the spacers while im at it.

caged

when i was at 5.5 inches (R.E.) i still had to have cut fenders.

Gmaster

Ill have to see how it goes I guess. I want to keep the stock flares, but cant have my tires getting cut up.

kirknd4spd

You need bumpstops, not more lift. Ive never had more than 2" lift for 33's on a Jeep, and I've had them on stock suspension too, with cut and fold and no rubbing.

Metmknice

OP states that they are running SOA in the rear, so 5.5" coils should about level it out. But I definitely agree on bumpstops. Prothane coil inserts work the best for a lower budget.
IF your fenders are not cut already, consider trimming them a bit. But, without more modification proper bumpstops are in order.

Gmaster

Okay so I just got done taking apart the front end of the mj, springs are about 19.5" free length plus the 2" spacers. Anybody have an idea about how much lift it had?

Metmknice

Not all springs are the same. How much lower do you think the front was than the rear? Depending on how the SOA was done the rear could be 5.5-6.5? MAybe pick up a set of the PAC 6"/250 lb rate coils from Jegs? Jegs also has prothanes for sale. Maybe go to your local JY and pick up another pair of coil isolators, toss those in if the springs arent tall enough?
I am not sure what the measurement specs are for MJ's as far as hub center to bottom of flare (if in stock location still).
I know on XJ's it was 17.5 in the front, in theory should be the same for MJ. And 17" in the rear. You would have to search for measurements to do to know how much lift you have in the rear.

Gmaster

Ok, im still waiting on my parts to get here, just figured I would tear it down before doing the rear main seal, should be interesting since ive never messed with the 2pc kind. Hopefully no leaks when im done.

Metmknice

Make sure you get the good felpro one-piece oil pan gasket. Use RTV in any of the corners or where it looks like there are gaps. If you are lucky, you will only need to remove the last main cap. Make sure you have a tq wrench to install them correctly when you put it back together.

Gmaster

I got the felpro one, i also got the felpro "twin lip" rear main, i think they are universal? i already have the old seal out kind of a pain. also picked up a mellings high volume oil pump. is there a procedure for the adjustable track bar? instructions say " make sure axle is centered and tighten nut". really descriptive. them springs are gona be interesting going in

Metmknice

If you can wait til you install new springs, do that so you don't have to re-adjust it again after you swap.
Simple way to setup the track bar, install new frame mount (if applicable), have vehicle sitting on its own weight. Then, shake the front of the vehicle side to side and let it sit where it should above the axle. I usually bolt the axle side of the TB in, and then adjust the frame side to fit.