1986 2.1L Turbo Diesel XJ in Idaho!
11-28-2012, 01:33 PM
#1
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Year: 1986
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Renault 2.1L Turbo Diesel
1986 2.1L Turbo Diesel XJ in Idaho!
I'm new to the Cherokee group and wanted to introduce myself, and let you all know about a very cool 1986 Cherokee project that I just acquired this week. Its powered with the Renault 2.1L turbo diesel, mated to a 5-speed manual transmission.
The engine runs great, but it has a leaking head gasket that I will likely be replacing soon. Its leaking into the coolant system, causing it to pressurize and spew coolant out of the degas/overflow bottle. The engine oil looks fine and is not milky at all, indicating no coolant into the lubrication system.
I have driven it a few times, and have about 100 miles on it so far. There is no indication from the coolant temp gauge that its overheating at all, and I have been keeping a close eye on it while keeping the coolant level topped off as needed. I figure I will first try to torquing the head bolts down, then drive it some and see it that helps, prior to pulling the head to swap out the gasket. I also have a new timing belt on order, so I will be replacing that too, as I do not have a record indicating when it was last replaced. I figure that its better to be safe, than sorry with this interference type engine. No bent lifters for me!
Here are a few photos of my new baby.
The engine runs great, but it has a leaking head gasket that I will likely be replacing soon. Its leaking into the coolant system, causing it to pressurize and spew coolant out of the degas/overflow bottle. The engine oil looks fine and is not milky at all, indicating no coolant into the lubrication system.
I have driven it a few times, and have about 100 miles on it so far. There is no indication from the coolant temp gauge that its overheating at all, and I have been keeping a close eye on it while keeping the coolant level topped off as needed. I figure I will first try to torquing the head bolts down, then drive it some and see it that helps, prior to pulling the head to swap out the gasket. I also have a new timing belt on order, so I will be replacing that too, as I do not have a record indicating when it was last replaced. I figure that its better to be safe, than sorry with this interference type engine. No bent lifters for me!
Here are a few photos of my new baby.
11-29-2012, 01:38 AM
#4
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by Char92dj8
Very cool, how did you find it! What did u pay??
There are 4 in junkyards near me lol
Welcome!
11-29-2012, 12:37 PM
#5
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Year: 1986
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Renault 2.1L Turbo Diesel
Thanks for the welcome greetings guys!
I actually had found the turbo diesel Cherokee kind of by accident. I do a lot of custom hauling of cars, bikes, and ATVs for people all around the country, using my 28' enclosed car hauler trailer, which I pull with my 6.0L Powerstroke diesel Ford Excursion. There was a Jeep Cherokee on the Uship website that was needing hauled out east from ID, and as typical, I did a web search for the specs to determine its length and weight, prior to placing a bid to haul it. In the search results that came back, this turbo diesel Cherokee XJ was listed on ebay, located in Grand Junction, CO.
Being a big fan of Jeeps, and diesel engines for pretty much all of my life, this one grabbed my attention, especially since I never knew that a turbo diesel option was ever offered for the Cherokee XJ. I figured I needed this one for my son and I to work on together and to share, so I sent the seller a quick note, asking about the reserve price, which he did not want to share with me. I then placed a bid of $1200, which did not meet his reserve price, but I kept an eye on the auction anyway.
When the auction ended, I was the high bidder, but the reserve price had still not been met. I noted that in the seller's reply, he had mentioned that if the XJ did not sell on ebay, he would then list it up for sale on Craigslist, which he did, with an asking price of $2200. I saw the ad and then contacted him by phone. After a short talk, we negotiated the selling price of $1,750.
Before Thanksgiving, I made a run out to the east coast to deliver a sweet classic car, and a very cool dune buggy that I had loaded in the Salt Lake City area, and after making the deliveries in DE and CT, I loading up a cherry Corvette and and couple nice bikes for a back haul out to Texas. After delivering them in Fort Worth, I then loaded a Bell 47 helicopter bubble there, which I was hauling to a friend here on the airport in Idaho, and since I had room inside the trailer for the Cherokee, I routed the drive home to Idaho through Grand Junction, CO. There, I met with the seller and paid for and loaded the turbo diesel Cherokee into my enclosed trailer for the ride home to Idaho.
Now the work and fun begins!
Stan
http://www.uship.com/profile/bearup
I actually had found the turbo diesel Cherokee kind of by accident. I do a lot of custom hauling of cars, bikes, and ATVs for people all around the country, using my 28' enclosed car hauler trailer, which I pull with my 6.0L Powerstroke diesel Ford Excursion. There was a Jeep Cherokee on the Uship website that was needing hauled out east from ID, and as typical, I did a web search for the specs to determine its length and weight, prior to placing a bid to haul it. In the search results that came back, this turbo diesel Cherokee XJ was listed on ebay, located in Grand Junction, CO.
Being a big fan of Jeeps, and diesel engines for pretty much all of my life, this one grabbed my attention, especially since I never knew that a turbo diesel option was ever offered for the Cherokee XJ. I figured I needed this one for my son and I to work on together and to share, so I sent the seller a quick note, asking about the reserve price, which he did not want to share with me. I then placed a bid of $1200, which did not meet his reserve price, but I kept an eye on the auction anyway.
When the auction ended, I was the high bidder, but the reserve price had still not been met. I noted that in the seller's reply, he had mentioned that if the XJ did not sell on ebay, he would then list it up for sale on Craigslist, which he did, with an asking price of $2200. I saw the ad and then contacted him by phone. After a short talk, we negotiated the selling price of $1,750.
Before Thanksgiving, I made a run out to the east coast to deliver a sweet classic car, and a very cool dune buggy that I had loaded in the Salt Lake City area, and after making the deliveries in DE and CT, I loading up a cherry Corvette and and couple nice bikes for a back haul out to Texas. After delivering them in Fort Worth, I then loaded a Bell 47 helicopter bubble there, which I was hauling to a friend here on the airport in Idaho, and since I had room inside the trailer for the Cherokee, I routed the drive home to Idaho through Grand Junction, CO. There, I met with the seller and paid for and loaded the turbo diesel Cherokee into my enclosed trailer for the ride home to Idaho.
Now the work and fun begins!
Stan
http://www.uship.com/profile/bearup
Last edited by Bearup; 11-29-2012 at 04:15 PM.
11-29-2012, 07:09 PM
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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12-03-2012, 09:50 PM
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Where did you end up finding a timing belt? Did you get the kit?
Be careful of the intricacies with the 2.1. If you end up doing the head gasket, there are 3 different thicknesses based on what was required to meet the tolerances of the deck height/combustion chamber. If you install the wrong thickness, you can be in big, big trouble. When inspecting the head gasket, look along the flange for a set of dots. Depending on how many dots are there will tell you the thickness.
Also, even if just checking for proper torque, I would recommend doing the step procedure and working your way up to the head bolt torque in the steps and sequence defined by the FSM to prevent warping or odd torque. I did this when I did a valve cover gasket on mine to make sure everything was on the up and up. It's a good time to check and adjust your valve lash also... And remember, number one cylinder is at the firewall, not at the radiator.
If you need any more help or have any questions, the easiest way is to send me a message, or I am a moderator on Comancheclub.com, and I am always on there.
Rob
Be careful of the intricacies with the 2.1. If you end up doing the head gasket, there are 3 different thicknesses based on what was required to meet the tolerances of the deck height/combustion chamber. If you install the wrong thickness, you can be in big, big trouble. When inspecting the head gasket, look along the flange for a set of dots. Depending on how many dots are there will tell you the thickness.
Also, even if just checking for proper torque, I would recommend doing the step procedure and working your way up to the head bolt torque in the steps and sequence defined by the FSM to prevent warping or odd torque. I did this when I did a valve cover gasket on mine to make sure everything was on the up and up. It's a good time to check and adjust your valve lash also... And remember, number one cylinder is at the firewall, not at the radiator.
If you need any more help or have any questions, the easiest way is to send me a message, or I am a moderator on Comancheclub.com, and I am always on there.
Rob
12-04-2012, 11:05 AM
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Year: 1986
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Renault 2.1L Turbo Diesel
Thanks for your reply and information, Rob! I greatly appreciate your input, and thanks also for your invitation for me to contact you for help. I have done quite a bit of research and reading up on the the Renault 2.1L diesel engine since finding and purchasing the Cherokee, and while doing so, have read up on you and your 2.1L Comanche on the Comanche club website.
I am familiar with the three different head gasket thicknesses for these engines, but was not aware of the dots on the flange for determining the correct gasket used once the head is removed. I will definitely look for those once I get the head off, and will order the correct head gasket for the engine at time.
As for the timing belt, I found a source for them on ebay, and ordered it from jolly_good_car_spares_ltd at this link:
http://www.ebay.co/itm/400335195428?...84.m1439.l2649
Cheers!
Stan
I am familiar with the three different head gasket thicknesses for these engines, but was not aware of the dots on the flange for determining the correct gasket used once the head is removed. I will definitely look for those once I get the head off, and will order the correct head gasket for the engine at time.
As for the timing belt, I found a source for them on ebay, and ordered it from jolly_good_car_spares_ltd at this link:
http://www.ebay.co/itm/400335195428?...84.m1439.l2649
Cheers!
Stan
12-04-2012, 08:56 PM
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I am glad you found my thread. I try to get info out there all over the net because I couldn't find any when I started working on mine. Luckily, one of the guys on Comanche Club has had one in the family for 170K and is semi-local to me. He's sort of been the guiding hand when I hit some trouble or have a question.
I would be worried about the coolant overpressuring. My quasi-mentor's MJ has had a few cracks in the head that result in the condition you are experiencing. I think his were cracking by the precombustion chambers. He's had the head fixed a couple times, but is just letting it go at this point. The engine has 270K on it, and the truck is one of the rustiest I've seen. He uses it as a farm truck, and it doesn't act up unless you really get into it. He's been leaving the cap off the reservoir IIRC.
Be cautious of the quality of the belt. Those are pretty inexpensive, and these are interference engines. If a cheap belt lets go, the pistons may introduce themselves to the valves. I picked up a couple Gates belt kits:
They are both kits, complete with updated tensioner assemblies, but one has the additional idler also. I had to get mine from Belgium. I'm going to go through and redo all my pictures as they were lost when Comanche Club converted from PHPbb, but I do still have all of them on Facebook. I have the belt replacement saga in pics.
If you haven't chased down a set of Factory Service Manuals, I would do so. They surface on eBay every once and awhile in english. For the time being, if you have a question, or would like to see some info, just send me a message. I can scan or take a pic of the page you need. I have the complete set, including a dealer training binder from the training class they would do at the dealer, and I have a 2.1L Renault Technical training laserdisc I found. I've watched some of it, but without the AMC player, it's not interactive. Originally you could select the symptoms and it would take you to the repair. At some point, I'll convert the 2.1 Laserdisc to digital for youtube.
Keep me posted, I'll do whatever I can to help. Not many of us left. Haha.
Rob
I would be worried about the coolant overpressuring. My quasi-mentor's MJ has had a few cracks in the head that result in the condition you are experiencing. I think his were cracking by the precombustion chambers. He's had the head fixed a couple times, but is just letting it go at this point. The engine has 270K on it, and the truck is one of the rustiest I've seen. He uses it as a farm truck, and it doesn't act up unless you really get into it. He's been leaving the cap off the reservoir IIRC.
Be cautious of the quality of the belt. Those are pretty inexpensive, and these are interference engines. If a cheap belt lets go, the pistons may introduce themselves to the valves. I picked up a couple Gates belt kits:
They are both kits, complete with updated tensioner assemblies, but one has the additional idler also. I had to get mine from Belgium. I'm going to go through and redo all my pictures as they were lost when Comanche Club converted from PHPbb, but I do still have all of them on Facebook. I have the belt replacement saga in pics.
If you haven't chased down a set of Factory Service Manuals, I would do so. They surface on eBay every once and awhile in english. For the time being, if you have a question, or would like to see some info, just send me a message. I can scan or take a pic of the page you need. I have the complete set, including a dealer training binder from the training class they would do at the dealer, and I have a 2.1L Renault Technical training laserdisc I found. I've watched some of it, but without the AMC player, it's not interactive. Originally you could select the symptoms and it would take you to the repair. At some point, I'll convert the 2.1 Laserdisc to digital for youtube.
Keep me posted, I'll do whatever I can to help. Not many of us left. Haha.
Rob
12-05-2012, 11:41 PM
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Year: 1986
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Renault 2.1L Turbo Diesel
Thanks for the the timing belt information. I will look the new belt over closely when it arrives, and give the belt tensioner a good look as well. I am aware of the interference issue in the event of a broken belt, and am also concerned about the cooling system being pressurized due to a cracked head, rather than from a bad head gasket. If you could show a link to the FB photos that show your timing belt replacement, that would be great. Luckily for me, the turbo diesel Cherokee came with a few shop manuals, so I have that going for me. 
