Snajo

I've been doing some work. These are cell phone pics, so the normal caveats apply... colors are generally richer in person and less blurry.


97+ Nevermind the messy *** desk. With some new bulbs the red on this gauge cluster is great! I'm glad I didn't give up. All it took for red in this case, was more power. I'm pretty sure these bulbs will be fine, but just in case I'll let this be my evil nightlight for the next few days. Note how most of my pics are at night. This one is during the day!


pre-97 This is 'white' but it looks a little blue in the picture. It has a slight bluish tint to it in real life, but the picture shows more (in my opinion). I think it's useful, but it does seem bright to me.


pre-97 It's greener in real life... if that makes sense.


pre-97 It's not this blurry in real life. Don't drink and drive.


pre-97 Red works here. I think it would look good on a cluster with a white face, but that's just me. It's good though.

I've ordered a bunch of bulbs to get pre-97 sets ready. I'm feeling good about the instrument/indicator sets. They require more powerful bulbs and more of them, so I'm hesitant to stock up until I sell a few more sets of the 97+. pre97 interior is just a matter of finding the bulbs I need in quantity and Quality. Quality has been the issue.

Again, I can ship 97+ interior sets with Overhead Console or Front Dome and I can do 97+ instrument/indicator sets in Blue, Green, White, and finally, Red! Want greener turn signal indicators? Blue? We can do those too, no extra charge.

203Cherokee

Ill take a full set in red for 97+. Lemme know payment option(s) so I can get these n throw em in. I have the regular dome n map lights overhead

Joecfran

I can tell you that, Yes, my 95 country has vanity mirror lamps

Snajo

I decided to see if I could get red to work better through the transfer case and transmission bezels. I think it worked out very well for the transmission and okay for the transfer case.

I took the blue plastic filter out of the transmission indicator. It worked well.
1: remove bezel from Jeep
2: slide the red/orange shift selection indicator to the right (when facing so letters are readable) This is so it slides out of the channel without breaking.
3: move the selection indicator to the top as far as it will go. This makes it easier to pull the selector part out of the bezel.
4. work the bottom tab on the black plastic movable part to it comes out of the bezel. Slide all the moving black parts down. Be careful that the 'indicator' piece is centered and doesn't get caught anywhere.
5. work the top tab on the black plastic movable part out. and remove all the movable plastic parts. Try to keep them together. If not, just remember that they stack with the smallest on top.
6. use small pliars or some pinching tool to get ahold of the blue plastic piece that's under the indicator window. Yank until it's out of there.
7. if installing a red lamp in the assembly, paint, marker, or otherwise make the orange sliding selector indicator black and allow to dry/set before reassembly
8. reassembly is opposite of assembly, minus the yanking.

For the transfer case, I think the ideal way to change it would be to remove all the 'print' that's on the plastic bezel indicator and replace it with a heavy duty film that's clear and black instead of the mix of colors it is now. Well, even better would be printing on it like stock, but I have a feeling that's very difficult.

I just scraped off what I could of what I wanted to be visibly red. A patient person could probably get great results with a magnifying glass and a tiny scarper of sorts. For the most part, the areas we would want to remove material are thinner than those we don't, so it can be lightly sanded for a similar effect. Someone that has experience painting small models would probably be able to provide input here.



Of note, I did break a plastic tab getting the transfer case bezel apart. I will hot glue it back together. Some of these plastic parts appear to have been assembled in the factory with hot glue, so I'm not worried about that.

Proper

Just wanted to chime in on the vanity lights as well...the guy who doesn't have any in his 96 or 95, whatever it was has to be smoking some good stuff, unless the dummy light package didn't include that or something. I've never owned a dummy gauges xj, not really my thing lol. However my 87(upcountry) has vanity lamps, 89 (Laredo) has vanity lamps and my buddies 93 (country) has vanity lamps. Hope this info helps, you seem to be very through with your work so i thought I'd pass on all I could.

Snajo

I did find one pre97 that didn't have lamps on the sun visors, so I'm pretty sure they don't all have them. I don't know what the deciding factor would have been though... maybe manual locks and windows didn't come with them. No worries though. I think it'll be easier to just throw them in every package. If someone doesn't want them, I can take them out.

Joecfran

My 95 is a country with manual locks and windows, so I don't know, but on the converse, my girlfriends 96 sport with power window/locks doesn't have the vanity mirror lamps...... Weird

Snajo

I've had a handful of sets go out. No issues that couldn't be fixed so far. Known issues: The front dome center bulb can easily be broken during install. I'm putting a bit of glue to help the contact mounts and sending replacements as needed. The rear dome bulb fits loose without bending the socket a bit. I don't expect this to change until I find a larger diameter bulb that has the same or better light output.

I mistakenly told someone that the fog lamp couldn't be red. I meant that the fog lamp "on" indicator couldn't be red. Just green or blue for that due to the color of the plastic indicator window.

Anyway:
97+ Red, Green, and Blue instrument sets are ready to go. If anyone else wants a white set, let me know and I'll get a set ready within a week.

97+ Interior Sets are good to go, whether you have the overhead console or standard dome light.

farmerxj

very nice work man lemme know what id owe you for red dash lights and clear dome and feet lights for a 2000 sport.

Snajo

It would be $50 for every replaceable bulb in your interior, but I can take off some from that if there are bulbs you don't want. Send me a PM with which bulbs you do and don't want to replace and I'll give you a price. The first post lists what things I have.

On a side note, I got a batch of white, red, blue, and green bulbs in to fit transmission and transfer case indicators. Although they put off more heat than I'd like, they are the best I've found yet that fit without cutting. If anyone orders now, these are the type that will ship. I've ordered a small batch of bulbs that should work and put off less heat. Unfortunately, they are top facing LEDs, so there is more likely to be hot spots. It's a tradeoff, but it's hard to find bulbs that fit within the 11.4mm diameter hole in the transmission/transfer case indicators. Most T10/194 LEDs have a diameter of 12mm and won't fit without modification of the bulb, indicator socket, or both.

Future possibilities include modifying the 12mm bulbs, using hot glue and foil to make the top mounted LEDs work better, or removing resistors from the CANBUS LEDs that are so common in the small size we need.

96bugout

Just letting you know that I ordered a set of these and couldn't be happier. They put out more light than the originals and run a lot cooler. I do not feel the same about an off brand dome light I found. Its got 12 leds on a flat a single panel, with festoon ends. I wasn't as happy with the out put of the map lights you recommended, SO I soldered 3 of the together and BAM. The run a lot hotter than they would have alone but nowhere near as hot as an incandescent would.


As for the $13 for four, when compared to the same incandescent counterparts are very reasonable. Im planning on ordering the same corncob from the link above for my transmission and transfer case indicator. I have a single Sylvania unit in each and the light is bright but doesn't reach to the end of the indicator for the transfer case. Also, gonna order some for the side indicators since they too need a little more reach down into the fixture, not sure about the license plate light depth though. As soon as I get some money together (two in college and one in kindergarten on a LEO salary) I'm gonna order everything you have for a 96 country.


Any experience with the other indicator lights as far as light output? I want the absolute brightest lights I can get on each corner of my heap.


Most of all, I would like to thank you for NOT being a douch with all of your information. You've thrown information out left and right without keeping it all to yourself in honor of the all mighty dollar!


Thanks a lot!!!!!

Snajo

I have info about all interior lights in the fourth or fifth post of this thread. Are you talking about the dash, hvac, rocker switches, and transmission/transfer case? A lot of the writeups I've found are confusing, so here are my suggestions:

5 pieces of 74 type LED for gauges - get "stick" style ones with either two LEDs (one on each face) or three (two faces + top). Yellow doesn't work well in my experience. Red works, but might be dim. I have good red bulbs I ordered in bulk from some crazy slow place in China if interested. For blue and green it's hard to go wrong. White is a matter of the color temp - diff whites will look considerably different.

T3 and T4 "NeoWedge" for the rockers and HVAC. One T4 per switch plus two for the HVAC. Again, green blue and white work well. Red is dim. T3 bulbs are used for the Fog Lamp and Defrost "On" indicators. Defrost has a yellow lens, so only yellow/red light shines through. Fog has a green lens, so only blue/green shines through. Best place for these is a dude in Taiwan. He charges reseller prices and only ships in small quantity, but they're good. I have bulk ones from a different supplier that work and are cheaper, but so far the best I can do to have them in bulk.

two pieces of 194 or T10 or 168 or W5W type LEDs for the Transmission and Transfer case: if you are willing to cut / glue, you can put anything in there. The easiest are narrow 194 type LEDS that don't have a plastic sheath and aren't wider than 11.4mm in diameter. They're hard to find and most run pretty hot. Also, any bulb with an LED on the top (as opposed to the sides) will have a hot spot. Better are bulbs with LEDs on the sides. Ideally, I would get put a low power diffused light source behind each bezel, but... haven't had the motivation to cut up yet another set of transfer case and transmission indicators.

One more note on the transmission and transfer case bezels, there are different color printings in different places, especially with the transfer case, so light won't shine equally through all parts. A brighter bulb will be brighter everywhere. Getting even light requires a bit more work.

96bugout

I was half asleep when I responded the first time. It was the rear dome festoon light I wasn't as happy about. I just soldered 3 in parallel and inserted the center one into the mount.


The indicators I was referring to were the outside blinkers. I was just wondering if there was a comparable led product that will exceed the light put of the outer lights, turn signals, brake lights, reverse lights etc...

RusselltheRed

I'd like one of these sets as soon as possible. (Green, and if there is anyway you could put blue indicator led's for the defroster and fog lights that would be amazing) Just pm me paypal info and let me know when to expect shipping please. Also area code 45804 Lima, Ohio.

Snajo

Ahh... I have zero experience with external LEDs. I've replaced headlights once and one turn signal in 10 years with the XJ.