Mark this thread as Unsold
[FS] Interior LED Sets
02-23-2014, 03:59 AM
#1
Former Sponsor
Thread Starter
Interior LED Sets
LED INTERIOR SETS FOR SALE
93-98 ZJ
84-96 XJ
97-01 XJ
writeup & examples are in different posts below.
interior sets include (in white only):
-rear cargo lamp
-front dome & map lamps, or overhead console lamps
-courtesy lamps for the front floor wells
-vanity mirrors bulbs
-glove box bulb (pre-97 only)
These LEDs require no cutting, hot glue, solder, or any other modifications to install. They are plug and play.
Interior Sets are brighter than stock for all years. I recommend them to anyone that would like more light on the inside of their XJ.
head to www.onewaylight.com for the most up to date details.
enter cherokeeforum at checkout for the forum price... if it's invalid when you try, send me a pm or an email at jason@onewaylight.com
93-98 ZJ
84-96 XJ
97-01 XJ
writeup & examples are in different posts below.
interior sets include (in white only):
-rear cargo lamp
-front dome & map lamps, or overhead console lamps
-courtesy lamps for the front floor wells
-vanity mirrors bulbs
-glove box bulb (pre-97 only)
These LEDs require no cutting, hot glue, solder, or any other modifications to install. They are plug and play.
Interior Sets are brighter than stock for all years. I recommend them to anyone that would like more light on the inside of their XJ.
head to www.onewaylight.com for the most up to date details.
enter cherokeeforum at checkout for the forum price... if it's invalid when you try, send me a pm or an email at jason@onewaylight.com
Last edited by Snajo; 09-11-2015 at 12:18 PM. Reason: price and availability changes
02-23-2014, 01:12 PM
#4
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Hudson, FL
Posts: 3,683
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Inline 6
I just converted all my interior lights to LED and I love the change. But you gotta do it right, otherwise the LEDs will spazz out because they have no resistance. I recommend installing inline resistors.
I converted my dash cluster, map/dome lights, shifter, 4x4 shifter, vanity, floor lights, and even headlights to LED.
Next up, I might do my blinkers/reverse/brake lights.
I converted my dash cluster, map/dome lights, shifter, 4x4 shifter, vanity, floor lights, and even headlights to LED.
Next up, I might do my blinkers/reverse/brake lights.
02-23-2014, 02:37 PM
#5
Former Sponsor
Thread Starter
Examples followed by write-up:
Stock
White works well but it isn't terribly different than stock.
Blue - I'm putting blue in my XJ.
Green - the actual green is darker/richer... very difficult to photograph, but great if you like green.
Red - again, more red in person. Red doesn't show through the 2H indicator on t-case and is relatively dim through the transmission indicator, but otherwise works well. The negatives are minor if you like red. Remember that red is also the color of stop signs, brake lights, stop lights, and every serious warning in your Jeep's gauge cluster. By using red backlighting, the ability of a driver to recognize these as important warnings may be reduced. This comes from another vendor on the forums here, but I think it's a good point. I don't think it would be as important in a trail only rig, but for a street vehicle I don't recommend red.
Front w/ vanity lamps
Rear (out of focus, but you get the idea)
Writeup:
I use the following bulbs:
Footwell Bulbs These are the fat round ones, 1156 type bulbs. All 97+ XJs should have a socket in each front footwell for these. You'll need two. These in particular work great because they fit flush against the light socket. Brighter bulbs are available, but I like these because they're way brighter than stock and there is very little chance that they'll get damaged the way a long bulb that's sticking down might. When installing these, toss the thick yellow covers that used to protect the stock bulbs.
Vanity Mirror Bulbs These are the small fuse style bulbs, 29mm festoon. They should work in all year XJs, although I've only personally confirmed they work in 97+. They are polarized and will only work with current flowing in one direction, so flip them around if they don't work on the first try. I use these because they're bright and effective. There are more expensive bulbs, but these are almost too bright. In any case, there are versions with three LED chips instead of six, but I honestly don't see much real difference. A side note, small LEDs typically run cooler than their otherwise similar, but larger counterparts. I prefer cool over hot when I can get it.
Dome Map Lights These are the white ones with the white wedge on one end and the metal cylinder and LEDs on the other. They are a 194 type bulb. These fit 97+ map light sockets, but only on models with the standard front dome light enclosure. These bulbs are perhaps the biggest PITA I've dealt with so far. Basically, there are good bright bulbs and crappy dim bulbs and they look almost identical in pictures. If I were to offer a suggestion, I would only buy these from a vendor that shows a comparison of their good bulbs next to the cheaper copies. Alternatively, there are bulbs with 42 small LEDs (194 42SMD LED - google if interested) that work well. Unfortunately, the same issue applies... there are good and bad versions with little to differentiate between them.
Dome Center Light This is the bulb with the two loops at the ends. I don't know what the proper name is, so I search for 44mm festoon loop LED. The 44mm is important, because smaller ones, even 42mm will not easily fit without bending the mounting posts and in many cases are not wide enough. There are not as many manufacturers of these types of bulbs, so I chose the brightest I could find. This one uses two CREE (style or official, I'm not certain) XP-E LEDs. More common are XP-G LEDs, which are brighter (minimally, I promise - see the CREE website for a lumens comparison) and more expensive. The XP-G cost over twice as much as the XP-E in bulk and I for the life of me cannot justify the difference. These are not polarized, so they work installed either direction. See below for install tips, but basically, it's easy to break these. Be patient.
Rear Dome and Overhead Console The rectangular bulb with the large yellow chip fits both the rear dome in 97+ and the four reading lights in 97+ overhead consoles. The sockets for these bulbs accept larger bulbs, but these 42mm versions work very well and are more common. Since they are bit smaller, compress the 'fuse' prongs until the bulb sits firmly in place. On a side note, I really like these Chip on Board (COB) LEDs. There are LED chips behind the yellow diffusion coating. It creates a less "pointed" light pattern. I'd use this style for everything if I could.
Basic Instructions
1. Stock incandescent bulbs get hot. Hit the rear dome to turn them off, disconnect the battery, or wear heat resistant gloves. Leather work gloves are good.
2. Ensure bulbs work before reinstalling covers. Most LED bulbs are polarized. If a bulb doesn't work, turn it around.
3. Covers are not needed after new floor well bulbs are installed.
4. When possible, press out on the plastic around lens covers, not in against the lens covers.
5. Twist floor well covers to remove. Press up and twist bulbs to remove.
I suggest prying here for the reading lights. For the dome light, center back or front is fine.
Pry here for the mirror lamps. Apply pressure out as much as possible.
First pry here, again putting pressure out as much as possible. Next pry down at the hinge of the cover.
Installing new LED - note how each loop is only half on.
When fitting the loops all the way on the prongs, push the prongs so they line up with the widest area of the loops. Once loops are on, bend the prongs just enough that the bulb doesn't rattle. Be careful, because they will break. I used my finger for this. Using a tool to bend the prongs could easily break the bulb.
Stock
White works well but it isn't terribly different than stock.
Blue - I'm putting blue in my XJ.
Green - the actual green is darker/richer... very difficult to photograph, but great if you like green.
Red - again, more red in person. Red doesn't show through the 2H indicator on t-case and is relatively dim through the transmission indicator, but otherwise works well. The negatives are minor if you like red. Remember that red is also the color of stop signs, brake lights, stop lights, and every serious warning in your Jeep's gauge cluster. By using red backlighting, the ability of a driver to recognize these as important warnings may be reduced. This comes from another vendor on the forums here, but I think it's a good point. I don't think it would be as important in a trail only rig, but for a street vehicle I don't recommend red.
Front w/ vanity lamps
Rear (out of focus, but you get the idea)
Writeup:
I use the following bulbs:
Footwell Bulbs These are the fat round ones, 1156 type bulbs. All 97+ XJs should have a socket in each front footwell for these. You'll need two. These in particular work great because they fit flush against the light socket. Brighter bulbs are available, but I like these because they're way brighter than stock and there is very little chance that they'll get damaged the way a long bulb that's sticking down might. When installing these, toss the thick yellow covers that used to protect the stock bulbs.
Vanity Mirror Bulbs These are the small fuse style bulbs, 29mm festoon. They should work in all year XJs, although I've only personally confirmed they work in 97+. They are polarized and will only work with current flowing in one direction, so flip them around if they don't work on the first try. I use these because they're bright and effective. There are more expensive bulbs, but these are almost too bright. In any case, there are versions with three LED chips instead of six, but I honestly don't see much real difference. A side note, small LEDs typically run cooler than their otherwise similar, but larger counterparts. I prefer cool over hot when I can get it.
Dome Map Lights These are the white ones with the white wedge on one end and the metal cylinder and LEDs on the other. They are a 194 type bulb. These fit 97+ map light sockets, but only on models with the standard front dome light enclosure. These bulbs are perhaps the biggest PITA I've dealt with so far. Basically, there are good bright bulbs and crappy dim bulbs and they look almost identical in pictures. If I were to offer a suggestion, I would only buy these from a vendor that shows a comparison of their good bulbs next to the cheaper copies. Alternatively, there are bulbs with 42 small LEDs (194 42SMD LED - google if interested) that work well. Unfortunately, the same issue applies... there are good and bad versions with little to differentiate between them.
Dome Center Light This is the bulb with the two loops at the ends. I don't know what the proper name is, so I search for 44mm festoon loop LED. The 44mm is important, because smaller ones, even 42mm will not easily fit without bending the mounting posts and in many cases are not wide enough. There are not as many manufacturers of these types of bulbs, so I chose the brightest I could find. This one uses two CREE (style or official, I'm not certain) XP-E LEDs. More common are XP-G LEDs, which are brighter (minimally, I promise - see the CREE website for a lumens comparison) and more expensive. The XP-G cost over twice as much as the XP-E in bulk and I for the life of me cannot justify the difference. These are not polarized, so they work installed either direction. See below for install tips, but basically, it's easy to break these. Be patient.
Rear Dome and Overhead Console The rectangular bulb with the large yellow chip fits both the rear dome in 97+ and the four reading lights in 97+ overhead consoles. The sockets for these bulbs accept larger bulbs, but these 42mm versions work very well and are more common. Since they are bit smaller, compress the 'fuse' prongs until the bulb sits firmly in place. On a side note, I really like these Chip on Board (COB) LEDs. There are LED chips behind the yellow diffusion coating. It creates a less "pointed" light pattern. I'd use this style for everything if I could.
Basic Instructions
1. Stock incandescent bulbs get hot. Hit the rear dome to turn them off, disconnect the battery, or wear heat resistant gloves. Leather work gloves are good.
2. Ensure bulbs work before reinstalling covers. Most LED bulbs are polarized. If a bulb doesn't work, turn it around.
3. Covers are not needed after new floor well bulbs are installed.
4. When possible, press out on the plastic around lens covers, not in against the lens covers.
5. Twist floor well covers to remove. Press up and twist bulbs to remove.
I suggest prying here for the reading lights. For the dome light, center back or front is fine.
Pry here for the mirror lamps. Apply pressure out as much as possible.
First pry here, again putting pressure out as much as possible. Next pry down at the hinge of the cover.
Installing new LED - note how each loop is only half on.
When fitting the loops all the way on the prongs, push the prongs so they line up with the widest area of the loops. Once loops are on, bend the prongs just enough that the bulb doesn't rattle. Be careful, because they will break. I used my finger for this. Using a tool to bend the prongs could easily break the bulb.
Last edited by Snajo; 05-28-2014 at 04:36 PM.
02-23-2014, 08:08 PM
#7
Former Sponsor
Thread Starter
If there is interest I could go to the yard and pull the fixtures for pre-97. Otherwise it would take a bit of trial and error.
Last time I looked there was a guy selling gauge cluster bulbs on ebay, so I might try that too.
I just need a reason to stock up on bulbs. From there it shouldn't be too difficult to work this out for other applications.
BTW, there is a guy on ebay selling sets for pre 97. It takes care of the gauges, hvac, switches, t-case, and transmission indicators as I understand.
Last time I looked there was a guy selling gauge cluster bulbs on ebay, so I might try that too.
I just need a reason to stock up on bulbs. From there it shouldn't be too difficult to work this out for other applications.
BTW, there is a guy on ebay selling sets for pre 97. It takes care of the gauges, hvac, switches, t-case, and transmission indicators as I understand.
Last edited by Snajo; 02-23-2014 at 09:55 PM.
Trending Topics
02-24-2014, 09:39 AM
#9
Beach Bum
02-24-2014, 09:58 AM
#10
CF Veteran
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Washington, MO
Posts: 1,056
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
How about a white LED kit for just the overhead lights (no center console) mirror light and under the dash... want to let me know on a kit for all of those?
02-24-2014, 11:23 AM
#12
Former Sponsor
Thread Starter
What year do you have? Rear dome, front dome with reading lights, mirror bulbs, and the ones for the floor wells. I should have everything you need already. Verify that's correct and I'll get back with you tonight.
02-24-2014, 11:26 AM
#13
Former Sponsor
Thread Starter
I'll do some research on pre-96. I shouldn't have to stock anything different, but I want to get a cluster to test on so I can match bulbs to their purpose. Example, some brake lamps use the same bulb socket as gauge cluster, but in most cases your going to want different bulbs.
Last edited by Snajo; 02-24-2014 at 11:46 AM.
02-24-2014, 12:47 PM
#14
CF Veteran
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Washington, MO
Posts: 1,056
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
No problem. It looks like there is enough interest, so I'll get to work on bulk bulb orders.
What year do you have? Rear dome, front dome with reading lights, mirror bulbs, and the ones for the floor wells. I should have everything you need already. Verify that's correct and I'll get back with you tonight.
What year do you have? Rear dome, front dome with reading lights, mirror bulbs, and the ones for the floor wells. I should have everything you need already. Verify that's correct and I'll get back with you tonight.
