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[FS] Interior LED Sets
06-23-2016, 08:56 PM
#436
Junior Member
If anyone has any questions please let me know.
Lastly, if anyone got lights from me and has had some go out and would like replacements, please let me know - regardless of how long it has been. The light sets have changed a lot since early 2013.
06-24-2016, 06:51 AM
#437
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Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: FL
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Pic of sub enclosure
[/color]
is that sub enclosure pre fabbed r custom? What size sub?
examples followed by write-up:
stock
white works well but it isn't terribly different than stock.
blue - i'm putting blue in my xj.
green - the actual green is darker/richer... Very difficult to photograph, but great if you like green.
red - again, more red in person. Red doesn't show through the 2h indicator on t-case and is relatively dim through the transmission indicator, but otherwise works well. The negatives are minor if you like red. Remember that red is also the color of stop signs, brake lights, stop lights, and every serious warning in your jeep's gauge cluster. By using red backlighting, the ability of a driver to recognize these as important warnings may be reduced. This comes from another vendor on the forums here, but i think it's a good point. I don't think it would be as important in a trail only rig, but for a street vehicle i don't recommend red.
front w/ vanity lamps
rear (out of focus, but you get the idea)
writeup:
I use the following bulbs:
footwell bulbs these are the fat round ones, 1156 type bulbs. All 97+ xjs should have a socket in each front footwell for these. You'll need two. These in particular work great because they fit flush against the light socket. Brighter bulbs are available, but i like these because they're way brighter than stock and there is very little chance that they'll get damaged the way a long bulb that's sticking down might. When installing these, toss the thick yellow covers that used to protect the stock bulbs.
vanity mirror bulbs these are the small fuse style bulbs, 29mm festoon. They should work in all year xjs, although i've only personally confirmed they work in 97+. They are polarized and will only work with current flowing in one direction, so flip them around if they don't work on the first try. I use these because they're bright and effective. There are more expensive bulbs, but these are almost too bright. In any case, there are versions with three led chips instead of six, but i honestly don't see much real difference. A side note, small leds typically run cooler than their otherwise similar, but larger counterparts. I prefer cool over hot when i can get it.
dome map lights these are the white ones with the white wedge on one end and the metal cylinder and leds on the other. They are a 194 type bulb. These fit 97+ map light sockets, but only on models with the standard front dome light enclosure. These bulbs are perhaps the biggest pita i've dealt with so far. Basically, there are good bright bulbs and crappy dim bulbs and they look almost identical in pictures. If i were to offer a suggestion, i would only buy these from a vendor that shows a comparison of their good bulbs next to the cheaper copies. Alternatively, there are bulbs with 42 small leds (194 42smd led - google if interested) that work well. Unfortunately, the same issue applies... There are good and bad versions with little to differentiate between them.
dome center light this is the bulb with the two loops at the ends. I don't know what the proper name is, so i search for 44mm festoon loop led. The 44mm is important, because smaller ones, even 42mm will not easily fit without bending the mounting posts and in many cases are not wide enough. There are not as many manufacturers of these types of bulbs, so i chose the brightest i could find. This one uses two cree (style or official, i'm not certain) xp-e leds. More common are xp-g leds, which are brighter (minimally, i promise - see the cree website for a lumens comparison) and more expensive. The xp-g cost over twice as much as the xp-e in bulk and i for the life of me cannot justify the difference. These are not polarized, so they work installed either direction. See below for install tips, but basically, it's easy to break these. Be patient.
rear dome and overhead console the rectangular bulb with the large yellow chip fits both the rear dome in 97+ and the four reading lights in 97+ overhead consoles. The sockets for these bulbs accept larger bulbs, but these 42mm versions work very well and are more common. Since they are bit smaller, compress the 'fuse' prongs until the bulb sits firmly in place. On a side note, i really like these chip on board (cob) leds. There are led chips behind the yellow diffusion coating. It creates a less "pointed" light pattern. I'd use this style for everything if i could.
basic instructions
1. Stock incandescent bulbs get hot. Hit the rear dome to turn them off, disconnect the battery, or wear heat resistant gloves. Leather work gloves are good.
2. Ensure bulbs work before reinstalling covers. Most led bulbs are polarized. If a bulb doesn't work, turn it around.
3. Covers are not needed after new floor well bulbs are installed.
4. When possible, press out on the plastic around lens covers, not in against the lens covers.
5. Twist floor well covers to remove. Press up and twist bulbs to remove.
i suggest prying here for the reading lights. For the dome light, center back or front is fine.
pry here for the mirror lamps. Apply pressure out as much as possible.
first pry here, again putting pressure out as much as possible. Next pry down at the hinge of the cover.
installing new led - note how each loop is only half on.
when fitting the loops all the way on the prongs, push the prongs so they line up with the widest area of the loops. Once loops are on, bend the prongs just enough that the bulb doesn't rattle. Be careful, because they will break. I used my finger for this. Using a tool to bend the prongs could easily break the bulb.
stock
white works well but it isn't terribly different than stock.
blue - i'm putting blue in my xj.
green - the actual green is darker/richer... Very difficult to photograph, but great if you like green.
red - again, more red in person. Red doesn't show through the 2h indicator on t-case and is relatively dim through the transmission indicator, but otherwise works well. The negatives are minor if you like red. Remember that red is also the color of stop signs, brake lights, stop lights, and every serious warning in your jeep's gauge cluster. By using red backlighting, the ability of a driver to recognize these as important warnings may be reduced. This comes from another vendor on the forums here, but i think it's a good point. I don't think it would be as important in a trail only rig, but for a street vehicle i don't recommend red.
front w/ vanity lamps
rear (out of focus, but you get the idea)
writeup:
I use the following bulbs:
footwell bulbs these are the fat round ones, 1156 type bulbs. All 97+ xjs should have a socket in each front footwell for these. You'll need two. These in particular work great because they fit flush against the light socket. Brighter bulbs are available, but i like these because they're way brighter than stock and there is very little chance that they'll get damaged the way a long bulb that's sticking down might. When installing these, toss the thick yellow covers that used to protect the stock bulbs.
vanity mirror bulbs these are the small fuse style bulbs, 29mm festoon. They should work in all year xjs, although i've only personally confirmed they work in 97+. They are polarized and will only work with current flowing in one direction, so flip them around if they don't work on the first try. I use these because they're bright and effective. There are more expensive bulbs, but these are almost too bright. In any case, there are versions with three led chips instead of six, but i honestly don't see much real difference. A side note, small leds typically run cooler than their otherwise similar, but larger counterparts. I prefer cool over hot when i can get it.
dome map lights these are the white ones with the white wedge on one end and the metal cylinder and leds on the other. They are a 194 type bulb. These fit 97+ map light sockets, but only on models with the standard front dome light enclosure. These bulbs are perhaps the biggest pita i've dealt with so far. Basically, there are good bright bulbs and crappy dim bulbs and they look almost identical in pictures. If i were to offer a suggestion, i would only buy these from a vendor that shows a comparison of their good bulbs next to the cheaper copies. Alternatively, there are bulbs with 42 small leds (194 42smd led - google if interested) that work well. Unfortunately, the same issue applies... There are good and bad versions with little to differentiate between them.
dome center light this is the bulb with the two loops at the ends. I don't know what the proper name is, so i search for 44mm festoon loop led. The 44mm is important, because smaller ones, even 42mm will not easily fit without bending the mounting posts and in many cases are not wide enough. There are not as many manufacturers of these types of bulbs, so i chose the brightest i could find. This one uses two cree (style or official, i'm not certain) xp-e leds. More common are xp-g leds, which are brighter (minimally, i promise - see the cree website for a lumens comparison) and more expensive. The xp-g cost over twice as much as the xp-e in bulk and i for the life of me cannot justify the difference. These are not polarized, so they work installed either direction. See below for install tips, but basically, it's easy to break these. Be patient.
rear dome and overhead console the rectangular bulb with the large yellow chip fits both the rear dome in 97+ and the four reading lights in 97+ overhead consoles. The sockets for these bulbs accept larger bulbs, but these 42mm versions work very well and are more common. Since they are bit smaller, compress the 'fuse' prongs until the bulb sits firmly in place. On a side note, i really like these chip on board (cob) leds. There are led chips behind the yellow diffusion coating. It creates a less "pointed" light pattern. I'd use this style for everything if i could.
basic instructions
1. Stock incandescent bulbs get hot. Hit the rear dome to turn them off, disconnect the battery, or wear heat resistant gloves. Leather work gloves are good.
2. Ensure bulbs work before reinstalling covers. Most led bulbs are polarized. If a bulb doesn't work, turn it around.
3. Covers are not needed after new floor well bulbs are installed.
4. When possible, press out on the plastic around lens covers, not in against the lens covers.
5. Twist floor well covers to remove. Press up and twist bulbs to remove.
i suggest prying here for the reading lights. For the dome light, center back or front is fine.
pry here for the mirror lamps. Apply pressure out as much as possible.
first pry here, again putting pressure out as much as possible. Next pry down at the hinge of the cover.
installing new led - note how each loop is only half on.
when fitting the loops all the way on the prongs, push the prongs so they line up with the widest area of the loops. Once loops are on, bend the prongs just enough that the bulb doesn't rattle. Be careful, because they will break. I used my finger for this. Using a tool to bend the prongs could easily break the bulb.
06-24-2016, 06:27 PM
#438
Junior Member
I just looked at the photos I had made for the 97-01 XJ dash. The guy did pretty good with the white, but the blue and green sets don't look right compared to the clusters I did on my test bench. Blue and green do illuminate the clusters completely!
If anyone is concerned about the quality and end results of these light sets, I'll give a full refund and pay return shipping to anyone that decides to return a light set.
Once I start charging for the custom climate control lighting, that item will be the exception to this return policy, but only because it is difficult to reuse.
---- Rest is off topic ----
10" - I bought it from a guy on the forum here. I don't know if anyone is making them now, but I'm pretty sure the plans are available someplace online. Any custom box builder should be able to put one together easily enough with the plans.
The biggest problem I've had is securing the box in place. If I recall, I ended up lining the surfaces where the box met against metal or plastic with a taped backed anti-vibration foam-pad. I'm pretty sure I bolted it to the floor by drilling holes in the bed of the cargo area and then ran the screws up through the bottom of the Jeep into the box.
It sounds pretty good, but it sounds and feels like the bass is too far away. I'd like to run another sub - maybe an 8" between the spare tire and the rear seat on that passenger side. I'm not sure I'll get that far. Maybe if I can find another XJ and start over.
If anyone is concerned about the quality and end results of these light sets, I'll give a full refund and pay return shipping to anyone that decides to return a light set.
Once I start charging for the custom climate control lighting, that item will be the exception to this return policy, but only because it is difficult to reuse.
---- Rest is off topic ----
10" - I bought it from a guy on the forum here. I don't know if anyone is making them now, but I'm pretty sure the plans are available someplace online. Any custom box builder should be able to put one together easily enough with the plans.
The biggest problem I've had is securing the box in place. If I recall, I ended up lining the surfaces where the box met against metal or plastic with a taped backed anti-vibration foam-pad. I'm pretty sure I bolted it to the floor by drilling holes in the bed of the cargo area and then ran the screws up through the bottom of the Jeep into the box.
It sounds pretty good, but it sounds and feels like the bass is too far away. I'd like to run another sub - maybe an 8" between the spare tire and the rear seat on that passenger side. I'm not sure I'll get that far. Maybe if I can find another XJ and start over.
Last edited by akasnajo; 06-24-2016 at 06:54 PM.
06-26-2016, 04:47 PM
#441
Junior Member
That's crazy - I've never seen them in a tan XJ before. The sets for the 97-01 with Overhead Console are really bright.
I used to put even brighter lights in that set, but they were unreasonably bright - like, opening the Jeep door at night was about as appealing as getting a camera flash to the face.
I just sent a request to make new lights for the 84-01 dome and 84-97 cargo lights. These lights should be brighter, but the biggest improvement will be lifespan (assuming all goes well). If the manufacturer will make the small order I'm requesting, I'll post here when I have them.
I used to put even brighter lights in that set, but they were unreasonably bright - like, opening the Jeep door at night was about as appealing as getting a camera flash to the face.
I just sent a request to make new lights for the 84-01 dome and 84-97 cargo lights. These lights should be brighter, but the biggest improvement will be lifespan (assuming all goes well). If the manufacturer will make the small order I'm requesting, I'll post here when I have them.
06-26-2016, 11:21 PM
#445
Junior Member
I ordered a batch of new lights to replace the 84-97 dome / cargo lights and the 98-01 dome light. These things should be brighter, but more importantly, they should have a longer life span.
We'll see if they check out. Everytime I guesstimate about when new lights will arrive, I end up wrong... so none of that.
We'll see if they check out. Everytime I guesstimate about when new lights will arrive, I end up wrong... so none of that.
06-27-2016, 11:53 AM
#446
CF Veteran
promo code didn't work for me either.
Is the bulb for the engine bay light the same as the overhead console? Any plans to include that one? Would be nice then I don't have to worry as much about draining my battery if I leave the hood open overnight and don't disconnect the light.
Is the bulb for the engine bay light the same as the overhead console? Any plans to include that one? Would be nice then I don't have to worry as much about draining my battery if I leave the hood open overnight and don't disconnect the light.
06-27-2016, 01:31 PM
#447
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Michigan
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
promo code didn't work for me either. Is the bulb for the engine bay light the same as the overhead console? Any plans to include that one? Would be nice then I don't have to worry as much about draining my battery if I leave the hood open overnight and don't disconnect the light.
06-27-2016, 01:33 PM
#448
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Michigan
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Or it might be the same... It has a loop on either side but I think it is smaller... I just disconnect the engine bay light when I am working on it
06-27-2016, 03:36 PM
#449
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Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: South Texas
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
promo code didn't work for me either.
Is the bulb for the engine bay light the same as the overhead console? Any plans to include that one? Would be nice then I don't have to worry as much about draining my battery if I leave the hood open overnight and don't disconnect the light.
Is the bulb for the engine bay light the same as the overhead console? Any plans to include that one? Would be nice then I don't have to worry as much about draining my battery if I leave the hood open overnight and don't disconnect the light.
06-27-2016, 04:23 PM
#450
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Join Date: Feb 2015
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
He definitely needs to make a kit for the under hood light, I wanted it but since he didn't sell it, I bought the appropriate LED light on eBay, so much light to work in there at night! I don't have a pic but I can get one tonight if anybody is curious