XJ wont go into gear when running.
#1
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Stock 4.0 178,000 mile Home made Turbo charged rear mount setup, 8lbs of boost
XJ wont go into gear when running.
I have replaced both the slave cylinder and master cylinder today after having issues with getting the jeep in gear and when it finally did I could feel it grabbing even with the clutch to the floor. Not really sure what to do next, I replaced the clutch less than 5,000 miles ago..It currently is bad enough to not even get the jeep in any gear. Like I have no clutch whatsoever. Jeep worked great prior to a no warning type of clutch issue. Any help would be appreciated, and by the way it is bleed correctly becuase it broke the straps on the slave when
I pushed in the clutch and pedal pressure feels nice and firm like it used too. What part in the clutch system disengages the clutch? Just seems like a cable needs to be adjusted, but I know being a hydraulic system that is not possible.
Thanks in advance,
Tony
I pushed in the clutch and pedal pressure feels nice and firm like it used too. What part in the clutch system disengages the clutch? Just seems like a cable needs to be adjusted, but I know being a hydraulic system that is not possible.
Thanks in advance,
Tony
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I have replaced both the slave cylinder and master cylinder today after having issues with getting the jeep in gear and when it finally did I could feel it grabbing even with the clutch to the floor. Not really sure what to do next, I replaced the clutch less than 5,000 miles ago..It currently is bad enough to not even get the jeep in any gear. Like I have no clutch whatsoever. Jeep worked great prior to a no warning type of clutch issue. Any help would be appreciated, and by the way it is bleed correctly becuase it broke the straps on the slave when
I pushed in the clutch and pedal pressure feels nice and firm like it used too. What part in the clutch system disengages the clutch? Just seems like a cable needs to be adjusted, but I know being a hydraulic system that is not possible.
Thanks in advance,
Tony
I pushed in the clutch and pedal pressure feels nice and firm like it used too. What part in the clutch system disengages the clutch? Just seems like a cable needs to be adjusted, but I know being a hydraulic system that is not possible.
Thanks in advance,
Tony
#3
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Year: 1998
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Engine: Stock 4.0 178,000 mile Home made Turbo charged rear mount setup, 8lbs of boost
Thanks,
Tony
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Year: 1998
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Engine: Stock 4.0 178,000 mile Home made Turbo charged rear mount setup, 8lbs of boost
Interesting , the pilot bearing is the one located in the fly wheel correct? I'll take a look at that and see what I find,how could I tell a good one from a bad one?
Thanks again
Tony
Thanks again
Tony
#7
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Year: 1997
Engine: 4.0
hydraulics or pressure plate. those 2 things are what dictate engagement. I'd guess something in the hydraulics is bad. you'd know if something else broke, i.e. disc or pilot bearing. I've broken both repeatedly and knew it right away. in fact the last pilot bearing I broke came apart and put a hole in the bell housing.
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#8
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Stock 4.0 178,000 mile Home made Turbo charged rear mount setup, 8lbs of boost
So I got the transmission out of the way and sure enough there is nothing really jumping out at me at all. The throw out bearing spins smoothly and is quiet, pressure plate fingers are all good, I even stuck my head in there to get a pic of the pilot bearing and even that looked good as well. I took some pictures:
The Pilot bearing..
Pressure plate, also looked at the clutch disc springs and those all seemed normal as well.
The Pilot bearing..
Pressure plate, also looked at the clutch disc springs and those all seemed normal as well.
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Year: 1998
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Engine: Stock 4.0 178,000 mile Home made Turbo charged rear mount setup, 8lbs of boost
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3...kyNWI2SFRXdThJ
This is a picture of the throw out bearing and clutch fork that also seemed, normal, to me as well, unless I am missing something I am not exactly sure what to do next.
This is a picture of the throw out bearing and clutch fork that also seemed, normal, to me as well, unless I am missing something I am not exactly sure what to do next.
#11
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Year: 1998
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Engine: Stock 4.0 178,000 mile Home made Turbo charged rear mount setup, 8lbs of boost
Before I parked the jeep, it started out the same day just fine, then quickly got worse, managed to get the jeep home. Took the slave and master off, Swapped them out for new ones. Once installed I bled the system, Got the same stiff pedal broke the shipping straps on the slave, but no disengagement of the clutch. No weird noises while running. Pull the trans out of the way to check everthing internally and everything looks normal. I am taking the pressure plate off today to see what the clutch disc looks like. After that all checks out I rule out my clutch and then go back to faulty hydraulics and buy the sealed system with no bleeding required.
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Year: 1997
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post up pics of the face of the throw out bearing. I can't see any wear on the fingers of the pressure plate. you can bench bleed the hydraulic system. I've also used a mity vac through the clutch master reservoir to suck any remaining air out.
#14
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I always buy the pre-bled matched pair. I bet you just have air in the lines. It was likely enough pressure to break the shipping straps but not enough to disengage the clutch.
I have a used one I'd sell, just in case you're looking to save a few bucks.
I have a used one I'd sell, just in case you're looking to save a few bucks.