XJ front leaf bolts
#1
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XJ front leaf bolts
I know there is probably many threads regarding this but I would like interaction. So I am installing my first lift, front is all done. I am now on the back. The front leaf spring bolt that has the welded nut in the frame has backed out about an inch but won't come out or in any more. What is the cause and solution?
#2
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Welcome to CF.
Buy yourself some PB Blaster and soak that thing real well from every possible angle: even in the hole in the uni-body in that area. Let it soak. Spray it again. Let it soak. Maybe even run the bolt back in slightly and spray it again. Let it soak. Then try and remove it. It's probably (hopefully) corroded and just needs finessed. Those can be a PITA to remove, especially on units from up north or around salt air.
Come back and let us know how it goes. There are tricks, but let's try and avoid them for now. Be patient.
Buy yourself some PB Blaster and soak that thing real well from every possible angle: even in the hole in the uni-body in that area. Let it soak. Spray it again. Let it soak. Maybe even run the bolt back in slightly and spray it again. Let it soak. Then try and remove it. It's probably (hopefully) corroded and just needs finessed. Those can be a PITA to remove, especially on units from up north or around salt air.
Come back and let us know how it goes. There are tricks, but let's try and avoid them for now. Be patient.
#3
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Welcome to CF.
Buy yourself some PB Blaster and soak that thing real well from every possible angle: even in the hole in the uni-body in that area. Let it soak. Spray it again. Let it soak. Maybe even run the bolt back in slightly and spray it again. Let it soak. Then try and remove it. It's probably (hopefully) corroded and just needs finessed. Those can be a PITA to remove, especially on units from up north or around salt air.
Come back and let us know how it goes. There are tricks, but let's try and avoid them for now. Be patient.
Buy yourself some PB Blaster and soak that thing real well from every possible angle: even in the hole in the uni-body in that area. Let it soak. Spray it again. Let it soak. Maybe even run the bolt back in slightly and spray it again. Let it soak. Then try and remove it. It's probably (hopefully) corroded and just needs finessed. Those can be a PITA to remove, especially on units from up north or around salt air.
Come back and let us know how it goes. There are tricks, but let's try and avoid them for now. Be patient.
#4
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Understood. Yeah, unfortunately, you're probably going to have to cut it out now. It happens a lot up north.
Best thing to do is use the search and/or Google to find threads that explain the process from folks that have been there and be sure and apply some anti-seize to all the hardware when you re-install. If you ever need to remove them, it'll be much easier.
Best thing to do is use the search and/or Google to find threads that explain the process from folks that have been there and be sure and apply some anti-seize to all the hardware when you re-install. If you ever need to remove them, it'll be much easier.
#5
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Here's one for example:
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/fro...ng-bolt-50279/
Here's another:
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/fro...-broke-210280/
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/fro...ng-bolt-50279/
Here's another:
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/fro...-broke-210280/
Last edited by 4WD4EVER; 09-28-2015 at 07:57 PM.
#6
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Understood. Yeah, unfortunately, you're probably going to have to cut it out now. It happens a lot up north.
Best thing to do is use the search and/or Google to find threads that explain the process from folks that have been there and be sure and apply some anti-seize to all the hardware when you re-install. If you ever need to remove them, it'll be much easier.
Best thing to do is use the search and/or Google to find threads that explain the process from folks that have been there and be sure and apply some anti-seize to all the hardware when you re-install. If you ever need to remove them, it'll be much easier.
#7
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Do you mean as you rotate the bolt it doesn't go in or out or the bolt has stopped and you can't rotate it anymore? If you have backed it out far enough that it is no longer in the welded nut you may need a set of pliers to pull it out of the bushing, leaf spring eye and shackle. An easy test to see if the welded nut has broken off is to apply gentle pressure to the bolt head and if it slides towards the frame it is broken, if it stays in place it is not broken. It is not a problem if the bushing sleeve comes out with the bolt, you should be replacing the bushing anyway. Welcome to the forum.
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#8
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You're quite welcome. Let us know how it goes if you need anymore help. Hopefully someone with more experience with this than me will chime in. We don't get many seized bolts or bushings down here.
#9
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Do you mean as you rotate the bolt it doesn't go in or out or the bolt has stopped and you can't rotate it anymore? If you have backed it out far enough that it is no longer in the welded nut you may need a set of pliers to pull it out of the bushing, leaf spring eye and shackle. An easy test to see if the welded nut has broken off is to apply gentle pressure to the bolt head and if it slides towards the frame it is broken, if it stays in place it is not broken. It is not a problem if the bushing sleeve comes out with the bolt, you should be replacing the bushing anyway. Welcome to the forum.
Here's a picture. It rotates both ways with quite a bit of force but won't go in or out. Do you think it might be out of the nut at this point or not?
#10
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I will, and yes 262,000kms of BC weather is suspected to do this I guess.
#11
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I did mine a couple weeks ago. I used the PB Blaster for about a week prior. Disconnected axle from spring so there is no tension on bolts.
I used Maps gas torch to heat the bolts up good before taking them out with a breaker bar and cheater. Bought new bolts for new springs.
I used Maps gas torch to heat the bolts up good before taking them out with a breaker bar and cheater. Bought new bolts for new springs.
Last edited by Kalona00; 09-28-2015 at 08:20 PM. Reason: added comment
#12
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I think I'm going to try heat on the drivers side when I do it. But for now I'm going to figure this one side out.
#13
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Cut the spring and bushing completly off the bolt make sure you slice the bushing sleeve as well and remove it. then soak from both sides. You must likely will then be able to remove it. Usually it's rusted into the bushing sleeve more than the captured nut.
#14
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That's what I was thinking however I don't have an angle grinder. Any other tools that could make that possible? Thanks for the input.
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To get mine out, I had to first cut the eye off of the spring, then cut the eye off of the bushing, then cut the bushing off of the sleeve, and then finally use an air hammer to separate the sleeve from the bolt. After that, I was able to back the bolt out and remove the bushing.
Rust sucks. Good luck.