SteveMongr

For reference, here are links to the hack-n-tap and drill jig. Then all that's needed is a good front drive shaft (stock XJ).
http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merch...tegory_Code=UP
http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merch...tegory_Code=UP

bluejuice1031

So what will the sye help with? My driveline is not an issue, it is smooth. If you just mean to imply the dye is better than a tc drop, I can understand that. The way I am looking at it is that I do not have a symptom that will be corrected by the SYE.

For what is worth, I still have a bit of vibes, but they occur in drive, stopped, foot on the brake, as well as acceleration. ( though they still seem to be diminishing). I found my drum brake in need of adjustment, and after I do that this weekend, I suspect or will help while stopped, as I think theyou are so out of adjustment that the rear wheels are trying to push the jeep, maybe causing some of the vibes at the new stiffer tranny mount. I have seen a few threads that talk about excessive vibe after new mounts were installed.

thanks for the link to the sye stuff, that's where I got the shims. Great company.

SteveMongr

OK, moving away from the driveline.
Vibration while stopped? Possibly the harmonic balancer, or exhaust where it passes over crossmember and alongside transmission mount.

bluejuice1031

Well, I thought I had it. I thought those minor vibes/shudder would decrease with time as the new mounts broke in. Not the case.

Leaning toward the torque converter theory. Need to spend some time trying to diagnose to make sure it's the bad part before I buy a new one. Will follow up.

macgyver35

I don't know how long it's been since you changed your trans fluid, but that might be worth a shot. There's a lot of guys on here that change the fluid 3 quarts at a time by repeatedly dropping the trans pan. I don't like this approach for several reasons:
1) I think it still leaves quite a bit of the old fluid in there mixing in with the new, particularly in the torque converter.
2) It's a PITA. No way I want to have to do all that crawling and pan dropping multiple times.

There are shops that will do a flush and replace, but often those shops can do more harm than good. Sometimes they use a "reverse flush" which can cause issues. Other times their system has too much pressure and damages seals. There's a much better and easier way to fully change your fluid while letting your transmission's own pumping action do most of the work for you. This is a "forward flush", using the tranny's own pump and pressures, so there's almost zero chance of any kind of damage. Check out my post at the link below for how to do it.

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/aw4...4/#post1908724

This might be worth a try before you start tearing things apart. Often, a fresh fluid change will take care of things like rough/slow shifting and other irritating trans issues.

johnnyrotten

We replaced our motor mounts and it pushed our engine forward almost an inch. We have a good aftermarket exhaust system that rumbles like a v8 and have had people ask if we put a v8 in, but now after the new motor mounts the exhaust does rattle against things under acceleration. but you cant see what it is because its only when the engine is under a load. We are going to try two additional exhaust hangers. Good Luck

SteveMongr

Engine torque is one direction only. Look around the exhaust with that one direction in mind. Issue is usually where it passes over crossmember.

CR-Snow

Have you thought about doing a fresh tune up? Or any of the upgrade fuel stuff? New/better injectors, making sure your cap rotor coil wires plugs are fresh? Fuel filters? Maybe a throttle body cleaning? I've had several cars that had vibrations under hard acceleration and also poor idle quality and usually having the spark/fuel/air all squared away cured most of it. Maybe an idle adjustment could help too. Just a thought. Hope you track down the problem