Starting problems
#1
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Starting problems
I went to fire up the stroker for the first time and nothing... it doesnt crank, all i hear is click. I have swapped relays, and it is a new starter. I have power, the gauges seem to act normal. When I turn the key, all lights/ radio comes on but when I try and turn it over my radio turns off?
#2
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
How are the battery terminals. Does the battery ha e a change. Typically just a click is related to not having enough power to turn the engine. How are the block grounds.
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#4
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I arced over the starter and cranked it but it won't fire. I have spark and I have fuel in the fuel rail. I am not sure if I am getting fire to the chamber?
#5
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Setting Your 4.0 at #1 TDC
With #1 spark plug removed, turn the engine over clockwise using the 3/4" front crankshaft bolt. You will see the degree marks on your front cover. Mark the 0 with chalk or white-out. You will see the timing mark on the balancer. Mark it with chalk or white-out. While turning the engine over, put your finger/thumb over #1 spark plug hole. As the mark on the balancer approaches the marks on the front cover, if you are coming up on #1 TDC, pressure in the cylinder will push on your finger. If there's no pressure, you're at #6 TDC and need to crank the engine over until you see the marks coming together and you get pressure. Set the mark on the balancer to the 0 mark on the front cover.
http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/dist_index.html
With #1 spark plug removed, turn the engine over clockwise using the 3/4" front crankshaft bolt. You will see the degree marks on your front cover. Mark the 0 with chalk or white-out. You will see the timing mark on the balancer. Mark it with chalk or white-out. While turning the engine over, put your finger/thumb over #1 spark plug hole. As the mark on the balancer approaches the marks on the front cover, if you are coming up on #1 TDC, pressure in the cylinder will push on your finger. If there's no pressure, you're at #6 TDC and need to crank the engine over until you see the marks coming together and you get pressure. Set the mark on the balancer to the 0 mark on the front cover.
http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/dist_index.html
#6
standardrider18:
First things first obviously you want to be able to crank your engine with the starter, so I won't offer anything on it not firing. I have worked on several Cherokees of early 90's vintage, where I replaced the motor, or something like that, and before all that the Jeep would start just fine. So a few days later when the new motor was in, I tried to start it, and nothing. No crank, the starter did not even move, symptoms you described. I heard a click, but not from the starter, maybe something else being energized. It turned out that these Jeeps were equipped with a factory passive security system which disabled the starter after the battery had been disconnect for a time. These were typically Country editions, Briarwoods, while many basic Cherokees didn't have that system. It is supposed to be disabled by simply unlocking the driver door from the outside (after making sure they were all locked first), or I've heard of other sequences which involved unlocking the rear hatch, or also turning the key back and forth a few times in the driver's door. This may sound so simple that it couldn't possibly be the problem, but assuming your Jeep started with the pre-stroker motor, and your starter actually works (which you stated it does), then it might be the problem with it not starting (aside from the secondary issue of it not firing then). If there are no other obvious culprits (battery, grounds, etc.), then it might be worth a try. If you are sure your Jeep doesn't have such a system, then kindly disregard my humble sharing. Thank you. Good Luck
First things first obviously you want to be able to crank your engine with the starter, so I won't offer anything on it not firing. I have worked on several Cherokees of early 90's vintage, where I replaced the motor, or something like that, and before all that the Jeep would start just fine. So a few days later when the new motor was in, I tried to start it, and nothing. No crank, the starter did not even move, symptoms you described. I heard a click, but not from the starter, maybe something else being energized. It turned out that these Jeeps were equipped with a factory passive security system which disabled the starter after the battery had been disconnect for a time. These were typically Country editions, Briarwoods, while many basic Cherokees didn't have that system. It is supposed to be disabled by simply unlocking the driver door from the outside (after making sure they were all locked first), or I've heard of other sequences which involved unlocking the rear hatch, or also turning the key back and forth a few times in the driver's door. This may sound so simple that it couldn't possibly be the problem, but assuming your Jeep started with the pre-stroker motor, and your starter actually works (which you stated it does), then it might be the problem with it not starting (aside from the secondary issue of it not firing then). If there are no other obvious culprits (battery, grounds, etc.), then it might be worth a try. If you are sure your Jeep doesn't have such a system, then kindly disregard my humble sharing. Thank you. Good Luck
#7
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Year: 1992
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I have no breaks in the wire from my starter to the pcm. I am not getting getting power to the terminal wire on the starter. I have installed a new CPS and I have tested my NSS, it tested fine. I have swapped relays, fuel pump comes on, I have signal at my distributer and I am also still not getting spark....
Help..
Help..
Last edited by Standardrider18; 11-17-2015 at 07:36 PM.
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#8
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
What's the voltage on the starter cable (battery to starter) while attempting to crank. Also, what type of battery are you using and how old is it. What's it's voltage?
Have you looked at your ignition coil?
Have you looked at your ignition coil?
#9
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I have tried a different coil and the voltage on my starter wire, I think it was 11.6. The battery was purchased about a year and a half ago.
#10
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Ok so if you have 11.6v WHILE cranking on that starter wire, the starter should spin. You only realistically need 9.6+V so you are well within that.
Now, how about on the ground side of the starter? Is there any voltage on that. (Negative battery post to the case of the starter)
As for the spark issue. Take your DMM (Volt-Ohmmeter) and test the resistance of the plug wires. Also, it wouldn't hurt to check the resistance in the coil itself. Check the points on the distributor and the rotor itself for corrosion and weird wear. There is not much to the ignition system to fail if there is the correct voltage going to each component.
Now, how about on the ground side of the starter? Is there any voltage on that. (Negative battery post to the case of the starter)
As for the spark issue. Take your DMM (Volt-Ohmmeter) and test the resistance of the plug wires. Also, it wouldn't hurt to check the resistance in the coil itself. Check the points on the distributor and the rotor itself for corrosion and weird wear. There is not much to the ignition system to fail if there is the correct voltage going to each component.
#11
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Ok so if you have 11.6v WHILE cranking on that starter wire, the starter should spin. You only realistically need 9.6+V so you are well within that.
Now, how about on the ground side of the starter? Is there any voltage on that. (Negative battery post to the case of the starter)
As for the spark issue. Take your DMM (Volt-Ohmmeter) and test the resistance of the plug wires. Also, it wouldn't hurt to check the resistance in the coil itself. Check the points on the distributor and the rotor itself for corrosion and weird wear. There is not much to the ignition system to fail if there is the correct voltage going to each component.
Now, how about on the ground side of the starter? Is there any voltage on that. (Negative battery post to the case of the starter)
As for the spark issue. Take your DMM (Volt-Ohmmeter) and test the resistance of the plug wires. Also, it wouldn't hurt to check the resistance in the coil itself. Check the points on the distributor and the rotor itself for corrosion and weird wear. There is not much to the ignition system to fail if there is the correct voltage going to each component.
#12
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Year: 1999
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This is why I put in quotes how to test the ground side. Take your DMM and put a lead on the negative post of the battery and then put the other on the case (housing) of the starter. I'm well aware that a starter is grounded through the case thus does not have a negative cable.
#13
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This is why I put in quotes how to test the ground side. Take your DMM and put a lead on the negative post of the battery and then put the other on the case (housing) of the starter. I'm well aware that a starter is grounded through the case thus does not have a negative cable.
I am guessing it is my NSS but when I put it in reverse, my reverse lights come on so it contradicts what I am thinking...can it still be bad?
It doesn't start in neutral either..
Can the NSS cause no spark?
Last edited by Standardrider18; 11-22-2015 at 03:10 PM.
#15
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