shadowmoses

I'm about to lift 4.5 inches and tHe guy at the 4wheel parts store said I will need a new rear drive shaft, I didn't think that was right

Battle

You won't need it but it will pull the slip joint out of the transfer case (not all the way) and cause vibrations - hence why a SYE is highly recommended for lifting an XJ period. If you install that, you will need a new driveshaft.

Dumajones

Take a look at this..

*The Dude*

Mine is lifted 4.5 and with the transfer case drop kit (1") it doesn't vibrate at all. Also wheels fine this way too. I will be getting the SYE kit later but only to have the ability to run with just the front drive shaft in case I break a rear u-joint or strap or something.


Same lift on my old jeep from years ago and ran it the same way with no vibrations.


Forgot- you will need to shim it if you have not already.


Get one from here or like this.


http://www.rustysoffroad.com/jeep-su...teel-pair.html

Fred/N0AZZ

You need an SYE and a new driveshaft or another front one for the rear period no matter what some say, its one of those things when you go over a 3" lift along with Adj. U/LCA's, Brake Lines, Shocks, Dbl. Shear Track Bar for just a few things.


Its when you short change yourself that problems start, do it right the first time or wait till you can afford it.

sycoglitch

Lol, nah. Its more interesting watching people do the TC drop, and then post back a few weeks later, "Guys my vibes are back.""Guys I keep blowing up u joints." SYE are the easiest things to do. I love my IRO HnT, which works for me since I run only a 31.5 tire and not too much rocks. Was easier installing than my Original TC drop, Which guess what, did nothing good for me.

4WD4EVER

Hence the reason I put it in my sig.

It's illogical to say that one can't afford, or have the time, to do something correctly the first time, yet can afford, or have the time, to do something correctly a second time. That makes no sense...

4WD4EVER

I agree. It is more interesting to watch the outcomes of people who have a shorter time-preference vs the outcomes of people who have longer time-preferences.

To each their own though, right?

sycoglitch

Man. I dont even want to admit how much money and time I wasted by not saving and just doing it at once. Been the puck and shackle route. Relocator bracket. AAL. Bastard pack. Right now I'm using a Bastard AAL pack until I get time to do a full leaf 3.5" pack. It flexes and it works but damn if I wasn't in a rush, I'd probably be doing long arms right now instead of fixing old crap.

4WD4EVER

I know, we've all been there. Sometimes we just have to have our stuff and we've got to have it now. Live and learn, right?

SteveMongr

This is risky. Did you fully droop suspension and measure what remains of spline engagement?

4WD4EVER

Bingo!

yrok1

I got my 95 zj on 6.5 inches of lift and rolling stock everything on 35s. It was never a daily driver though so many miles may wear out crucial components, but for basi purposes of putting on a lift it will bolt together.

By stock everything I mean what did not come with the lift kit. I have rustys control arms but they are only stock length. The track bars, shocks, and did need a drop pitman arm.

xjferrell

the only way you will need to get a longer drive shaft is if you get a sip yolk and the only reasons you would need a slip yolk is if you have vibrations coming from your drive line. the only true way to know that your going to need any of this is to put the lift on and drive it down the road. i would consider doing a tcase drop before you go out and spend hundredzz of dollars on a sye and cv drive shaft. also make sure your axel is wedged apropriatly. every jeep is different when your talking about sye KEEP THAT IN MIND

shadowmoses

honestly have never heard of a shim