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they had less arc then my old add a leaf packs but i netted over a half inch of lift even after driving at around all night.
That is because they have 7 leafs.
The downside to that is less droop, which you have compensated for with reduced shackle angle.
I also run the BDS leaf pack. I get less body roll in turns and while off-camber, a more firm feel on highway and better performance in the whoops (compared to Skyjacker soft-leafs).
Also engineered to still perform while loaded down and to be stable while towing.
That is because they have 7 leafs.
The downside to that is less droop, which you have compensated for with reduced shackle angle.
I also run the BDS leaf pack. I get less body roll in turns and while off-camber, a more firm feel on highway and better performance in the whoops (compared to Skyjacker soft-leafs).
Also engineered to still perform while loaded down and to be stable while towing.
oh yeah definately. Add a leafs always have more arc cause one leafs trying to support the whole weight and add height.
Pretty stoked to try it off road! Already wicked on the road so its looking good.
Highly recommend that shackel relocation kit. Work wonders for droop I found
Hey ClassicCarl, looks like it's going great so far. Three things. First, you can take a punch and hammer to those broken bolts. The nuts that the bolts screw into are only tack welded up in there. A few good hard hits usually breaks them free. Then you could correctly position the shocks. Second, I have the same shackle relocation brackets you have. While off roading I was hearing hard clunking, it was the shackle making hard contact with the bracket when the springs were compressed. I cut the last two mounting holes off to stop the contact from happening. Pics. Third, a cut and fold will get ride of the rust back there. (: I hope your having fun.
The ax 15 and the aw4 use the same rear cross member bolt holes the ba10/5 uses te front ones. I had to thread the rear holes when I swaped my BA out and installed the ax
Well, good news from yesterday. I got the cross member bolted up with no serious problem. I'm off to work now but tonight ill post the measurements and stuff. Tucked the tranny up by 3/8 of an inch. Driving around with it bolted up for a bit before I throw the arms on to be sure.
Sorry for the hold-up! I've been pretty busy working, and i'm waiting for my AA sye and drive-shaft before the arms go in, since the crossmember will have to come off again.
As for the crossmember differences, I stacked some pieces of wood up and measured from the mounting surface on the x member, to the ground. I compared the two numbers and found 1/2 of an inch difference. This 1/2 did indeed make a noticeable difference in ground clearance, but the tranny and tcase do not touch the floorboards like bds insisted it would (knew it ). The clearance is tight, about a fingers width from the highest point I could find, however i see no problem with that what so ever. As long as nothing touches, I'm happy.
I have been driving around like normal now for nearly a week with no noticeable changes. Only thing I am going to look into is motor mounts since the drivetrain has pivoted. I want to make sure they're not overly stressed. and now i'm just awaiting my sye.
There also seems to be a lot of questions online about crossmember placemement in auto vs manual applications, but from my measurements, it turned out to be in exactly the same location as an auto crossmember. 14 inches from front of crossmember to back of the lca mount.
Cheers everyone!
Stacked on wood for measurements.
BDS crossmember. 3 3/4 inches from ground
Factory crossmember, 4 3/8 from ground
She's on
Last edited by ClassicCarl; 10-24-2014 at 06:36 PM.
10-19-2014, 01:25 PM
). The clearance is tight, about a fingers width from the highest point I could find, however i see no problem with that what so ever. As long as nothing touches, I'm happy. 
