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LOW COG suspension setup tricks/tips (REVISED 9-24-12)
#391
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Join Date: Jul 2011
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 i6
he mentioned to get rid of the factory steering. what steering do you guys go to? ive been planning to get the gc knuckles, steering and what not, but now im not sure if that set up will work for what i want, as far as droop goes.
#393
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Location: City of Trees, CA
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Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
the flatter your steering links are, the closer your track bar and drag link are to parallel, the better your steering will be under suspension cycle. being low cog helps a lot with achieving flat steering. you could run heim joint steering over the stock knuckles, t-link style with clocked heims, and a relocated track bar and be very very successful
#396
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Location: Fort Collins, CO
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
the flatter your steering links are, the closer your track bar and drag link are to parallel, the better your steering will be under suspension cycle. being low cog helps a lot with achieving flat steering. you could run heim joint steering over the stock knuckles, t-link style with clocked heims, and a relocated track bar and be very very successful
This. The exact reason I went through all the effort to make high steer work on 2.5" of lift when I did my D44 build.
#397
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
Is 2.5" on 35s LCOG enough? lol. I don't have any problems with only 1.5" of uptravel at each corner, occasionally the rear hits full bump when I go over speed bumps a little fast but I don't consider it more than a slight nuisance.
Last edited by mrfajita; 12-05-2015 at 12:45 AM.
#401
CF Veteran
The last few posts have been on high steer and I wanted to know if there are any issues staying low with an over the knuckle setup, and if one of those kits are better. I want to stay low, on 35's but still do a long arm lift.
#402
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Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
currie is over priced, JCR is awesome. I like heims so it's ruffstuff 7/8x7/8 kit all day for me
#403
CF Veteran
that is a lot more specific. depends on how low you go I suppose. the issues you could run into is the tie rod hitting the drag link, pitman, or even the drag link being too long as most aftermarket kits are made for 3.5"-6.5". but that would be fairly tough to guesstimate. if you're going that low you may need to build a custom kit and you may need to keep the tie rod UTK without going to an upgraded knuckle. be sure to call the company and discuss it with them prior to making any purchase
currie is over priced, JCR is awesome. I like heims so it's ruffstuff 7/8x7/8 kit all day for me
currie is over priced, JCR is awesome. I like heims so it's ruffstuff 7/8x7/8 kit all day for me
#404
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Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Johnstown, PA
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
hey guys, so my XJ has a three inch lift and i was able to get my hands on a set of 33s and wheels with backspacing that will clear and I already have trimmed fenders, and i love the look of a 3 inch and 33s so my question is about bumpstopping,just wondering if there was a certain length anyone recommended or a brand that anyone has used and likes. This would be the first time I've ever done anything with bumpstops so any advice would be appreciated!
#405
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Location: City of Trees, CA
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Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
hey guys, so my XJ has a three inch lift and i was able to get my hands on a set of 33s and wheels with backspacing that will clear and I already have trimmed fenders, and i love the look of a 3 inch and 33s so my question is about bumpstopping,just wondering if there was a certain length anyone recommended or a brand that anyone has used and likes. This would be the first time I've ever done anything with bumpstops so any advice would be appreciated!
Last edited by Atmos; 12-10-2015 at 07:52 PM.