t_long

Alright, guys. I'm nearing a cross roads with a front axle build and am looking for some input.

I've settled on keeping my front axle as a HP D30 l forever. I've already bought (but not installed) a Powertrax No-Slip locker, and am fixing to get a used HP D30 housing so I can build it and still drive the Jeep.

Since I am building this axle out of the car, I want to do it right and do it once. I will be getting it geared and locked and putting in new ball joints and wheel bearings while I'm at it. This is where the project scope starts to creep...

Do I truss it while it's out? What about C-Gussets / Sleeves? And if so, what should be considered in buying a truss? I plan on going to long arms at some point way down the road, but will keep my short arms for now. Also planning on going to 35s at some point when my 33s wear out. Do I need to consider the long arm plan in getting a truss?

The donor axle currently doesn't have knuckles or brakes on it. I've considered down the road going on to do the WJ brake / knuckle swap. Should I also consider doing this since I'm going to have the axle "free" to be built. I figure this is the best time to do it. If I do go WJ brakes and knuckles, I might as well do a proper high steer setup too, right? I have the IRO OTK steering in my garage waiting to go in, but maybe I should just do all of this at once. What do you all think?

EDIT: By the way, I'm pretty sure I can't use my IRO steering if I go WJ knuckles and brakes. If that's the case, I'd rather sell it and get my money back and go with high steer instead.

Thank you.

mr white

I have mine sleeved trussed and gusseted with chromos and a locker on 4.88s running 35s. Also timken bearings and new Spicer ball joints with the rk 3link. It only uses the upper pumpkin mount not the passenger side. So check for long arm kits that use the factory uppers if you are trussing it now. Else the truss might interfere. Also Clayton long arms come with a truss iirc so keep that in mind. Much easier to build the axle if you've already got your arms picked out so you know it will work.

t_long

Thanks for the input, mr white. I'm softly planning on running IRO long arms. Obviously with this list of parts growing, I'm nearing the point where I need to sell body and possibly soul to get there.

Do you or anyone else have input on the WJ brake and knuckle swap?

mr white

I didn't do it. I put powerstop rotors and ebc greenstuf pads and can lock up the 35 swampers. I also have rk steering.

hbracing13

I've been debating this same set up for a while now. My axle it already gutted I have 4.10 right now to match my rear but I also have some 4.56 for my 44 that I haven't built yet.
I've look at artec truss, iro truss, differences is sleeves weld vs no weld, lock outs etc.
I've also looked at either just getting waggy axles or doing tons, also the 30 can handle to fair share of abuse but will your pocket when you could of built a better and bigger axle for not that much more. Everything really comes down to what you plan to do one decision here can leave you feeling like a ******* for not building it better in the first place.

andrewmp6

What size tires do you want to run in the end and how will you use the jeep?If you want a rock crawler and 37s i would bite the bullet and go full width axles.Or stock width id shorten a ford hp dana 44 to jeep wagoneer 44 width which is a hair wider then the stock axle.The rear you can get a 8.8 and swap both axles lug patterns or use a rear dana 44 out of a isuzu rodeo.

t_long

My long term plan is to go 35s. Right now my lift is 4.5 and I don't ever want to go any higher than 6.5. More likely I will go to 5.5 when I get long arms and 35s. 35" x 12.5" at 5.5 on long arms would be perfect for me.

I forgot to mention (and haven't updated my profile yet) but I just finished the 31 spline 8.8 swap a few weeks ago. It's got 4.88s and the front will be the same once I get this thing (whatever it is) built. Probably the biggest reason I'm considering this WJ setup is because I've LOVED the braking improvement. This rig is my daily driver / weekend warrior / project car. Frankly, I'm obsessed with it though. I have something else that I drive on weekends / when the jeep is in pieces.

My only other reservation with the WJ brakes is that I have 15" aluminum wheels. I've seen many people make them fit by grinding the caliper a bit but it's always close.

What are other options on brake upgrades? Is there a middle ground?

The other part of this is, it seems like IRO has the truss figured out. So far, theirs is my favorite, but I'm not sure there either. Should I also go double shear, over-axle track bar when I swap the built axle?

t_long

How do you like your RK steering and 3 link. I hadn't considered that option till now. Is their steering crossover style on stock knuckles? Also, I take it you're happy with your brake upgrade?

Commocozy

Jumping in, so I can follow this for later. I am at the same point in the road.

andrewmp6

http://www.tandrperformance.com/braking.html has bigger brake kits but you won't like the price of them.

t_long

You are correct. Those brake kits are nice but I'd rather spend that money on long arms than brakes.

mr white

All beefy as ****. Its crossover but you have to enlarge the hole as it converts t o bolt and heim. Also have rk track bar.

t_long

Gotcha. Is your TB over axle or under? Also, you got a link for your brake setup?

besthaticouldo

I am doing this stuff to a D30 right now actually.

Artec Truss w/ Johnny Joints
Synergy Sleeve Kit
Artec C-Gussets
Beefy LCA Mounts
AlloyUSA Ball Joint Kit

I have a beefier tie rod that will hold me over for a couple months and I am going to a ruffstuff set up, it's a great price and honestly I don't think it'll get much better than that.

It's getting 4.56s and a Detroit TruTrac in front, I daily it so I didn't want full locker and an LSD is a happy medium for the wheeling I do.

Also the last thing I need to do it get axle shafts, or figure out what I'm going to do for shafts.

mr white

Standard mounting point. All the brakes are is powerstop drilled rotors and ebc greenstuf pads. The pads make the most difference assuming your factory braking system is in check.