Lockers, front and rear or just one
#31
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Year: 1998 (buggy), 1998 DD
Model: Cherokee
It's depressing...until you get reminded why you did when you take it out
#32
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
lol so true. And to add to your previous post, I run chromo's in my D30 and my rear D44. No issues with either. Sure, you'll wear the tiny front ujoints out faster being locked but hey, that's what they're there for right?
Last edited by Jeepin'_Aint_EZ; 01-18-2017 at 11:12 AM.
#35
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I would do a selectable locker (ARB, E-locker) in the front, and an auto locker (Detroit, Lock Right, No-slip, Spartan, or Aussie) in the rear. The Detroit will be stronger due to it being a full case locker vs a drop in, however a drop in locker should do fine in a 8.25 with 33s.
#36
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0HO
I guess asking this kind of question is like asking what brand tire is the best. I think I am going to just have to decide if the money is worth it or not. Because I am re-gearing and I am going to do one of the axles, the only additional cost is really the extra locker anyway. The compressor is already going in and the gear set up is already part of re-gearing.
Ultimately, I am ok with overbuilding something knowing that in the future the capability is there and if I decide to use the Jeep differently I don't have to go back and add anything. I guess that is an advantage of the selectables.
Thanks for all the input. I would still like any more feedback if you have it.
Ultimately, I am ok with overbuilding something knowing that in the future the capability is there and if I decide to use the Jeep differently I don't have to go back and add anything. I guess that is an advantage of the selectables.
Thanks for all the input. I would still like any more feedback if you have it.
#37
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
The trade-off is that the 8.25 in stock form will hold up to a locker and bigger tires better than the D30 (which would benefit from a few strength-adding upgrades requiring a bit more investment).
#38
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Year: 99
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
what about truetracs front and rear. i know they arent lockers but they seem to engage well and for 2 youll spend the price of almost one non lunchbox locker.
+ you wont have to worry about manual/auto diff road manners
+ you wont have to worry about manual/auto diff road manners
#39
CF Veteran
Truetracks are a great idea they are not a full locker but they are gear driven so they have no clutches to wear out. If you get into a situation where only one wheel is spinning you can press the brake an it will help transfer torque to the other wheel. They are also a good idea in the front because they normally don't cause steering issues like a locker does. However they are more expensive than a drop in locker and it replaces the carrier so you either have to get the tools to set it up right or pay a proffesional.
#40
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I would do a selectable locker (ARB, E-locker) in the front, and an auto locker (Detroit, Lock Right, No-slip, Spartan, or Aussie) in the rear. The Detroit will be stronger due to it being a full case locker vs a drop in, however a drop in locker should do fine in a 8.25 with 33s.
I've read that people used to use the Volvo rear end locker on their from Dana 30 for a cheap junkyard upgrade, SO - I started looking around and fore a later model Volvo with what looks like a Dana 30 axle, but has these wire plugged into the cover, -- Must be an electric-controlled locker / semi-locker?
I would like an electric locker up front -!
I live Near Seattle - rains all the time, so I used the Full-Time 4x4 most days, and I think it would be nice to switch on separately the front Lock, Only when needed.