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I have 400 dollars left in my Budget what should I buy!

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Old 02-10-2016, 11:56 AM
  #16  
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REAR LEAFS

T-case (disengaging 4x4) is likely a linkage issue. crawl under it and have someone work the lever

Last edited by denverd1; 02-10-2016 at 12:02 PM.
Old 02-11-2016, 12:19 AM
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I would spend money on maintenance first - full fluid change, ignition tune up, and inspect everything.

If it is a daily driver, suspension would be good to refresh. New shocks + struts and drop shackles in the rear to level it.

Then replace worn parts as needed. A ZJ tie rod end is a cheap upgrade, Ball Joints, u-joints, etc. If they are worn.

Edit: the boostwerks shift linkage is a great investment, I'll also vouch for that

Last edited by investinwaffles; 02-11-2016 at 12:22 AM.
Old 02-11-2016, 06:39 AM
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I think the op might have just posted and left. He hasn't replied since his original post.
Old 02-11-2016, 06:52 AM
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I think he's just lost in $400 worth of hookers and blow
Old 02-11-2016, 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by dano17
I think he's just lost in $400 worth of hookers and blow
Money well spent.
Old 03-15-2016, 11:59 PM
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i saw in another thread (COTM) that you said you were going to drain/swap all t-case and diff fluids... make sure and inspect the fluids individually. If any contain even small amounts of metal flake/sparkle, then you should just put it back in. Not exchange.

Reasoning: those little metal flakes are likely to be the only things keeping the gears together and a fluid swap/flush would remove the "glue" stopping the gears from slipping.

Just trying to make sure no one else makes my mistake.
Old 03-16-2016, 06:23 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by IStoleIt
i saw in another thread (COTM) that you said you were going to drain/swap all t-case and diff fluids... make sure and inspect the fluids individually. If any contain even small amounts of metal flake/sparkle, then you should just put it back in. Not exchange. Reasoning: those little metal flakes are likely to be the only things keeping the gears together and a fluid swap/flush would remove the "glue" stopping the gears from slipping. Just trying to make sure no one else makes my mistake.
I've never put the old fluids back even with tiny metal flakes. I've never had a problem. Maybe wrong fluid type? Or it was toast anyway?
Old 03-16-2016, 06:37 AM
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That sounds like total nonsense to me.
Old 03-16-2016, 12:38 PM
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Wouldn't those metal flakes wear the gears down faster? You put a wheel on ice and it will slip because it has no traction. It only makes sense that those metal flakes would be the ice in this case and cause more slippage. That's how it seems it would work to me though.
Old 03-16-2016, 12:49 PM
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Lord help us in this hour of need!.......They walk among us................................................ .................................................. ..
Old 03-16-2016, 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by LiamLikeNeeson
Wouldn't those metal flakes wear the gears down faster? You put a wheel on ice and it will slip because it has no traction. It only makes sense that those metal flakes would be the ice in this case and cause more slippage. That's how it seems it would work to me though.
Yup.
Old 03-16-2016, 02:22 PM
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Basslicks, my analogy was right? There's a first for everything
Old 03-16-2016, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by LiamLikeNeeson
Basslicks, my analogy was right? There's a first for everything
On the right track...
The gear oil is meant to lube to make everything slip and avoid binding. The oil is ice, metal shavings are like salt or studded tires, makes extra friction, grips and shreds.
Old 03-16-2016, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by LiamLikeNeeson
Basslicks, my analogy was right? There's a first for everything
Hey man, you're learnin'!

Originally Posted by jay_sco
On the right track...
The gear oil is meant to lube to make everything slip and avoid binding. The oil is ice, metal shavings are like salt or studded tires, makes extra friction, grips and shreds.
Yup... albeit kind of a strange analogy, but still headed in the right direction as said.
Old 03-16-2016, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by IStoleIt
i saw in another thread (COTM) that you said you were going to drain/swap all t-case and diff fluids... make sure and inspect the fluids individually. If any contain even small amounts of metal flake/sparkle, then you should just put it back in. Not exchange.

Reasoning: those little metal flakes are likely to be the only things keeping the gears together and a fluid swap/flush would remove the "glue" stopping the gears from slipping.

Just trying to make sure no one else makes my mistake.
What ******* started that bunch of misinformation?


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