I have 400 dollars left in my Budget what should I buy!
#16
Seasoned Member
REAR LEAFS
T-case (disengaging 4x4) is likely a linkage issue. crawl under it and have someone work the lever
T-case (disengaging 4x4) is likely a linkage issue. crawl under it and have someone work the lever
Last edited by denverd1; 02-10-2016 at 12:02 PM.
#17
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Year: '98
Engine: 4.0 I6
I would spend money on maintenance first - full fluid change, ignition tune up, and inspect everything.
If it is a daily driver, suspension would be good to refresh. New shocks + struts and drop shackles in the rear to level it.
Then replace worn parts as needed. A ZJ tie rod end is a cheap upgrade, Ball Joints, u-joints, etc. If they are worn.
Edit: the boostwerks shift linkage is a great investment, I'll also vouch for that
If it is a daily driver, suspension would be good to refresh. New shocks + struts and drop shackles in the rear to level it.
Then replace worn parts as needed. A ZJ tie rod end is a cheap upgrade, Ball Joints, u-joints, etc. If they are worn.
Edit: the boostwerks shift linkage is a great investment, I'll also vouch for that
Last edited by investinwaffles; 02-11-2016 at 12:22 AM.
#21
Seasoned Member
i saw in another thread (COTM) that you said you were going to drain/swap all t-case and diff fluids... make sure and inspect the fluids individually. If any contain even small amounts of metal flake/sparkle, then you should just put it back in. Not exchange.
Reasoning: those little metal flakes are likely to be the only things keeping the gears together and a fluid swap/flush would remove the "glue" stopping the gears from slipping.
Just trying to make sure no one else makes my mistake.
Reasoning: those little metal flakes are likely to be the only things keeping the gears together and a fluid swap/flush would remove the "glue" stopping the gears from slipping.
Just trying to make sure no one else makes my mistake.
#22
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
i saw in another thread (COTM) that you said you were going to drain/swap all t-case and diff fluids... make sure and inspect the fluids individually. If any contain even small amounts of metal flake/sparkle, then you should just put it back in. Not exchange. Reasoning: those little metal flakes are likely to be the only things keeping the gears together and a fluid swap/flush would remove the "glue" stopping the gears from slipping. Just trying to make sure no one else makes my mistake.
#24
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Year: 1989 Limited
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I-6 4.0L AMC Renix
Wouldn't those metal flakes wear the gears down faster? You put a wheel on ice and it will slip because it has no traction. It only makes sense that those metal flakes would be the ice in this case and cause more slippage. That's how it seems it would work to me though.
#25
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Lord help us in this hour of need!.......They walk among us................................................ .................................................. ..
#26
No, I don't lick fish.
Wouldn't those metal flakes wear the gears down faster? You put a wheel on ice and it will slip because it has no traction. It only makes sense that those metal flakes would be the ice in this case and cause more slippage. That's how it seems it would work to me though.
#29
No, I don't lick fish.
Hey man, you're learnin'!
Yup... albeit kind of a strange analogy, but still headed in the right direction as said.
Yup... albeit kind of a strange analogy, but still headed in the right direction as said.
#30
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
i saw in another thread (COTM) that you said you were going to drain/swap all t-case and diff fluids... make sure and inspect the fluids individually. If any contain even small amounts of metal flake/sparkle, then you should just put it back in. Not exchange.
Reasoning: those little metal flakes are likely to be the only things keeping the gears together and a fluid swap/flush would remove the "glue" stopping the gears from slipping.
Just trying to make sure no one else makes my mistake.
Reasoning: those little metal flakes are likely to be the only things keeping the gears together and a fluid swap/flush would remove the "glue" stopping the gears from slipping.
Just trying to make sure no one else makes my mistake.