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I appreciate the input, and the pic. I still have a while to decide, either would have pros/cons.
BTW, yes, we have trees here out west. I'm about the same distance from the forest as the desert (and the beach, but can't wheel there). One of the few remaining perks of living in Cali.
One more question. I've seen front axles compared to other front, and rear to rear. So which would be stronger (less likely to brake shafts when locked), d30 front, or 8.25 27spline rear?
i'm going to the rear of my cherokee first. figure i'm in 2wd most of the time anyway. just makes sense to start in the rear to me. though some brought up good points on doing the front first too..
Engine: Golen 4.6 Stroker, AFE Headers, 62mm TB, 24 LB Injectors, Brown Dog kit, HF Cat, 3" Exhaust
For me, the only time I need the locker is when climbing UP stuff. With most of the weight on the back axle during said climb, rear locker is all I have ever needed. ARB has been awesome!
Also, I don't truss my d30 with that much of an investment haha.
Theres an overall functionality to locking the rear first. Hell, just pulling into my driveway, which is steep, my DD TrailBlazer does better than the XJ in 2wd. Theres a lot of times, especially in winter when a locked rear would be helpful for pulling out into traffic. The one tire fire is a PITA when it comes to making tight turns on slippery surfaces. On the trail, as Tom mentioned, theres so many obstacles that don't warrant 4wd but you won't get over with an open diff.. At least this has been my experience.. Also not needing the skinny pedal as much is a good thing. You generally have to hit obstacles harder with open diffs than locked.
My XJ has been a DD for 3-1/2 years now locked in the rear for 3 of those years. I drive in snow every winter on moutain roads and on the trails. I've never had an issue its called throttle control. The only time the *** comes around is when I want it to
If it's just a toy then lock both. If you can't afford to do both then flip a coin on which end to do first. I would probably do the front first but that's just me. At about $250-300 per axle it shouldn't take too long to have both locked up.
I'm really new to this one. From what I heard, locking each axle is about $1k, by saying $250-300 what kind of lock do you mean?
Is it so hard to install it? I'm not a professional mechanic, but most of my mechanic work I do myself. Is it possible to do it yourself?
I haven't done one (yet) but they are simple bolt in units. VTJeep sort of got it right, $300 is a lunchbox type locker. Aussie and Spartan are a couple name brands of this type. Look it up on YouTube to get a feel of what's involved.
With a locker such as ARB you need to remove the ring and pinion gears as well, along with routing of the air line.
dana 35 and 44, all you need to do is pull the cross pin and spider gears, then assemble the locker inside the carrier and install the hardened cross pin.
the locker will fit inside a lunchbox and can be installed during your lunch hour, hence lunchbox locker.
but to install one in a d30, you have to pull the ring gear in order to get that cross pin out. takes a little longer and you may need to replace the ring gear bolts. check the price out on those, they're not cheap. i just used grade 8 bolts and large washers in my trail rig.
Hey Caged, that is another factor in deciding which end to lock that I was previously unaware of. When the ring gets reinstalled do you need to realign it? I've always been under the impression that's above my "shade tree" skills due to it needing to be percise.
Will the 27spline 8.25 be a simple drop in procedure?
300 would be an Aussie. Don't know any cheaper.. Also this amount doesn't reflect mechanics cost of install.
If your locker cost is 1k+ then your getting top of the line selectable lockers or a good locker and a regear at the same time.
i can verify. my front e locker and 4.88's cost me 2000$ including shop time. those 4.88's are way more than 4.56's. i think it was 50$+ for the front and 150$+ for the rear over 4.56
its a good damn thing i spend 600$ on that detroit years ago in my 8.25. and its also a good thing 8.25 has no carrier break. when i did one locker everyone said do a front. i looked into it and with a dana 30, 8.25 combo you are stupid to lock the front first. you rip that locker out and cant use it when you regear. but if you have different axles its another story.
Last edited by nolanbalzarini; 09-14-2015 at 12:58 PM.
i can verify. my front e locker and 4.88's cost me 2000$ including shop time. those 4.88's are way more than 4.56's. i think it was 50$+ for the front and 150$+ for the rear over 4.56
its a good damn thing i spend 600$ on that detroit years ago in my 8.25. and its also a good thing 8.25 has no carrier break. when i did one locker everyone said do a front. i looked into it and with a dana 30, 8.25 combo you are stupid to lock the front first. you rip that locker out and cant use it when you regear. but if you have different axles its another story.
Is it worth to put any locker at all, if I have the same axles as you did D30 and 8.25?
What should be done first regearing or locking my rear axle?
09-04-2015, 10:32 AM
