Hello... I'm new and my first post for advice on a rear end
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: The Isle of Long, in happy and sunny New York.
Posts: 202
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Supercharged 440 Magnum punched .60 - yeah right.. 4.0 like everyone else.
Hello... I'm new and my first post for advice on a rear end
I have a 99 XJ SE not many options in the thing, it's bare bones. I have the Dana35 in the rear, and I'd like to dump it for the 8.25. The plan for the build it to make it street and moderate off-road capable. I am building it for me now, and handing it over to my daughter in two years as a first car. We live on Long Island, so we have access to the beach... plus I'd like to take it elsewhere for more fun off-roading.
My question is what size rear should I put in it? 3.55? I have access to one locally for $250 (it's NY, I'm used to overpaying for everything)... that is a 355. The original owner stated that it was a 355 Dana35. What else do I need to do this swap? Also I plan on raising it 4"... and larger tires (31's) in the very near future.
Thanks for the advice and help from a newbie. So far I find the XJ ridiculously easy to work on and fun too.
JR
My question is what size rear should I put in it? 3.55? I have access to one locally for $250 (it's NY, I'm used to overpaying for everything)... that is a 355. The original owner stated that it was a 355 Dana35. What else do I need to do this swap? Also I plan on raising it 4"... and larger tires (31's) in the very near future.
Thanks for the advice and help from a newbie. So far I find the XJ ridiculously easy to work on and fun too.
JR
#2
CF Veteran
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Visalia, Kalifornia, ussa
Posts: 2,750
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
If you swap rear ends. You will need one with the SAME gearing as the front. If you XJ is automatic.. Then it will have 3.55 gears. If manual trans 3.07 gears. If you go to tires bigger than 31" you will want to change the gearing to 3.73 OR 4.1 on BOTH axles.
#3
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: The Isle of Long, in happy and sunny New York.
Posts: 202
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Supercharged 440 Magnum punched .60 - yeah right.. 4.0 like everyone else.
Thanks. Yes, it's automatic. So the 3.55 will work. Anything else I need? Is the stock rear drive shaft ok?
#7
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: The Isle of Long, in happy and sunny New York.
Posts: 202
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Supercharged 440 Magnum punched .60 - yeah right.. 4.0 like everyone else.
Sorry, bad typing. The original rear end is a Dana35... I was looking to put in a 8.25 as a stronger option.
If I do keep the D35, what is largest tire it will manage well with without breaking under stress? I'm not rock-crawling (yet) for now it's beach, and moderate off-roading, snow and whatever Long Island tosses at me.
I realize this has most likely been asked well over 1,000 times on this forum, but rather than hi-jack someone else's thread... I started yet another...
Thanks for help.
If I do keep the D35, what is largest tire it will manage well with without breaking under stress? I'm not rock-crawling (yet) for now it's beach, and moderate off-roading, snow and whatever Long Island tosses at me.
I realize this has most likely been asked well over 1,000 times on this forum, but rather than hi-jack someone else's thread... I started yet another...
Thanks for help.
Trending Topics
#8
Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Smithville, ON
Posts: 241
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
i believe the ubolts are also a little larger for the 8.25, so grab them and the leaf brackets too for the hell of it...i'm not 100% sure but anytime i've bought shyt they ask what rear diff i have
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: PA
Posts: 524
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 Power Tech Engine
axle size depends on how much you are going to wheel it, you put 33's on and decide to go airborne you are not going to enjoy the end result. Personally i have seen people run 33's as much as they want on a dana 35 with no problems. 31's will be just fine with a d35, just remember only wheel what you can afford..... and then some
#10
Sorry, bad typing. The original rear end is a Dana35... I was looking to put in a 8.25 as a stronger option.
If I do keep the D35, what is largest tire it will manage well with without breaking under stress? I'm not rock-crawling (yet) for now it's beach, and moderate off-roading, snow and whatever Long Island tosses at me.
I realize this has most likely been asked well over 1,000 times on this forum, but rather than hi-jack someone else's thread... I started yet another...
Thanks for help.
If I do keep the D35, what is largest tire it will manage well with without breaking under stress? I'm not rock-crawling (yet) for now it's beach, and moderate off-roading, snow and whatever Long Island tosses at me.
I realize this has most likely been asked well over 1,000 times on this forum, but rather than hi-jack someone else's thread... I started yet another...
Thanks for help.
#11
CF Veteran
You sound like you're heading to the same boat I am on. I have a 3.5" 31" 88' with a D35, 90% road use with that 10% trails in-between. I bought a Solid cover for mine, and plan on one day adding an auto locker to it for those snowy/muddy conditions. At 31" tires I have never worried or had any issues, I figured that it's cheaper to keep a D35 that'll handle 31s fine and build on it since I don't plan on going bigger or do any real crazy stuff (Rausch one day). Another thing about the strength in axles is the way you drive, there are many people who report locking and running 35" tires on a d35 with no issues, then there are others who can break them with just 235s, don't play the pedal-to-the-metal game and you'll be fine. And with 31s 3.55 isn't a bad gearing, I manage about 17 mpg with mine, the hills at highway speeds are what kill me, 3.73 would probably be perfect but it's not worth regearing for that little and on 31s.
Last edited by unidentifiedbomb; 04-25-2014 at 02:51 AM.
#12
CF Veteran
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Visalia, Kalifornia, ussa
Posts: 2,750
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
The d35 will be just fine for what you plan...... Wait till you break it to replace it. Besides there are more important things to upgrade when lifting than the axle. If you going off road you might want to think about ARMOR. You don't need as much lift if dragging the belly over things isn't going to break things. With 4.5" lift you gotta address driveline angle issues, SYE or TC drop. Control arms, trackbar, breaklines, shocks, swaybar connections.. And MOST important prevention of DEATH WOBBLE.
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: St. Albert
Posts: 731
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Getting a 29 spline 8.25 will definitely help ensure axle survival when offroad, especially with only 31's. And get new u-bolts, don't reuse the 15+ year old ones from the junk yard. For the 8.25 get 3" wide, full rounded, 1/2" rod, and whatever length you need... I believe mine were 6.75" long.
#14
Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Smithville, ON
Posts: 241
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
#15
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: The Isle of Long, in happy and sunny New York.
Posts: 202
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Supercharged 440 Magnum punched .60 - yeah right.. 4.0 like everyone else.
Thanks for the detailed advice.
I'll keep the D35 for now. I'm considering a 3.5" lift to avoid creating further problems with the drive alignment. I'm on a semi-limited budget, meaning I'm willing to spend, but not on stuff I really don't need/won't use.
I'd like to get a kit that includes the lower control arms with tubular bars and disconnecting swaybar links as mine are completely shot and need replacement anyway.
I'll keep the D35 for now. I'm considering a 3.5" lift to avoid creating further problems with the drive alignment. I'm on a semi-limited budget, meaning I'm willing to spend, but not on stuff I really don't need/won't use.
I'd like to get a kit that includes the lower control arms with tubular bars and disconnecting swaybar links as mine are completely shot and need replacement anyway.