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Old 04-26-2013, 12:09 PM   #1
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 1

View ebenezear's Photo Album My Photos
1998 Cherokee
Smile Dana 35 rear disc brakes How to......

OK so I am a newbie here but not a newbie to building things
and rebuilding things. So I just went through the process of
swapping Disc brakes onto the back of my 1998 Cherokee limited.
Here is how it is done........

My vehicle: 1998 Cherokee Limited
4.0L automatic
Dana 35 with c-clips
Drum brakes.
Donor vehicle: 1996 GC Larado
4.0L automatic
Dana 35 c-clips
Disc brakes
Parts from donor: Calipers
Backing plates
Brake lines
Rotors..... Maybe..... new ones are cheap
Drivers side E-brake cable.maybe.new one
cheap
New parts: Brake pads for Donor vehicle
Parking brake pads and hardware kit for donor vehicle
Drivers side E-brake cable for donor vehicle
NAPA Part # 95347 about $20
Passenger's side E-Brake cable
1998 Ford Explorer NAPA # 95064 about $35

I am assuming if you are attempting this swap you understand removing axles and such.
Remove your axles. Remove drum backing plate. Clean hub flange and stick paper towel in tube end to keep crap out.
So a swap from a Dana 35 to Dana 35 is direct bolt on. There is not any grinding
to do on center of backing plate. Fits perfect. The first issue is the ABS from the
Donor GC is different from the Cherokee ABS for drum brakes. The mounting hole for GC
ABS will be slightly blocked when you put GC backing plate on. I did not hook up
ABS again so this was not a problem. If you want to put GC ABS sensors on, you will
need to bolt on backing plates and drill the small piece of flange that obscures
the ABS hole. I do not think this will be a problem at all. Next is E-brake cable
situation. The E-brake on a Cherokee is on the left side of vehicle.... so the left
side E-brake cable is short... which means the right side is longer. 2 different lengths,
One loooong and one short. The E-brake on a GC is located in the roof of drive shaft
tunnel, ergo the middle. Both E-brake cables are pretty much same length. This
means that the left E-brake cable from GC will reach the adjuster hook-up, but the
right side will be way short. To fix this problem you need the right side E-brake
cable from a 1998 Ford Explorer. NAPA#95064. New cost is about $35 dollars
and it comes with new 3 prong clip that you almost always break getting used cable
off of donor vehicle. Direct drop in fit. I went ahead and opted for new left side
E-brake cable also. You must get this for donor vehicle. In my case 1996 GC Larado.
New cost $20 dollars. NAPA#95347. The Ford E-brake cable is the the big key
to puzzle. No more rigging your Cherokee cable with bolts to fit GC backing plate.
Next is the brake lines. The lines from the GC donor(including hard line from
T block) and rubber end at caliper. Get the whole line. These lines have the spring
wrapped around them and will come into play shortly.
Remove all drum brake stuff and lines all the way to T-block on axle tube. You can
make the Cherokee lines work, but be careful when you bend them. Hang backing
plate and install parking brake shoes and hardware. Put axle back in... Put on the
rotor and put new pads in calipers and hang them(bleeder screw on top). Now work
rubber brake line and square block with bolt thru it onto caliper. Block has a lip on
one side, this goes down towards caliper,not pointing up. Route the rubber line
over, under, around, thru whatever to get a shot across axle tube at T-block.
This is where the wire spring wrapping on GC brake line comes in. With that
wrapping around line you can just about reroute,rebend the whole line. Be
slow and careful and you should not have any problems.I am sure you can get
braided lines for this from 4x4 places. The lines from GC screw right into T-block
on axle tube. There is some mounting brackets on GC lines(break them off,grind
them off, whatever). Route E-brake cables tie them up and adjust parking brakes.
This is done just like drum brakes. Rubber plug on back of backing plate,remove
and stick a flat blade screwdiver in and flip star nut, Pay attention when you
assemble parking brakes so you know to flip nut up or down. Adjust until you
can feel resistance then back off just a touch. Then adjust where the 2 cables become
one cable(13mm). You should know how to do this.
Bleed brakes really good, wait an hour or so and bleed them again. Put your
tires back on and go wheeling. There has been talk about changing wheel studs
to the longer GC, you can if you want to, I got 6 revolutions on original Cherokee
studs before tight. I think that is good, but I will watch them for a while.
Once again the Ford E-brake cable is the piece that makes this easy.
My cost from junk yard about $50
My cost new parts about $100
Hope this helps. I have some pictures but I think I have laid it out pretty clear.
With all your ducks in a row, this should take around 2 hours plus or minus.
Not hard at all and I think a very nice upgrade.

Ebenezear
1998 Cherokee limited
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Old 04-26-2013, 12:09 PM
 
 
 
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