Say-Bye

So long story short I'm about to start on another XJ. My 2 door 92 is the target for the next project. So first off who on here is running and/or has been running 36's on their Dana 30? Are you running Iroks, TSL's, etc? Im planning on doing either Iroks or TSL's however I feel the Iroks may be the better choice because IMO they aren't as aggressive and they don't hook like a TSL, mainly because of not having the huge side lug the TSL has.


What kinda wheeling are you doing on this setup?


I'm mainly interested in how this setup will hold up with a Spartan locker in the front. By replacing the spider gears with the locker that will eliminate that breaking point, but obviously moving the weak point to the ujoints and shafts. I would like to think with a light foot on the throttle and keeping the steering wheel pointed straight as possible this could last for some time... but I've been wrong before.


If you're a pavement pounder on 36's please hold your thoughts, I'm wanting to hear from the guys that wheel this setup on a weekly basis and have somewhat of a dedicated trail rig. I think it can be done... 2 years ago everyone said it was a bad idea to run a Dana 44 on 37" Red Labels and that has proven to be one of my favorite setups so far!

caged

i have an 89 limited d30 in my 90 xj. the limited axle came with abs and has the larger 297 joints and the one piece shafts.
i run 36 inch bias ply iroks on 10 inch wide beadlocks and generally run 2psi while wheeling.
i wheel some pretty tough northern wilderness back country trails. generally between 3 and 4+ on the 5 scale.

all seemed to work fine till i locked it. started blowing u-joints a lot. it's hard to keep the wheels straight and run with a light foot offroad. there are times your wheels are turned and up against a root or rock.
i gotta say tho, i blew most joints when i shifted into reverse in that situation and had to give it some gas.
as soon as i took out the locker, i quit blowing joints and shafts.

your 92 d30 has the smaller 260 joints. you might be fine without a locker, but you will be wheeling a ticking time bomb.
i would find some tj shafts and throw in some 760 joints and leave the locker out.

mrshaft696

I wouldn't be afraid of breaking shafts or u-joints. I tack weld all my u-joints & if I break or damage a shaft I throw it in the trash & grab another from the junk yard. I don't feel like I need fancy axle shafts.


Changed them so many times, I can do a trail swap in about 15-20 mins depending on how long it takes to jack up the jeep.


I would be most concerned about ring and pinion damage, because those parts are expensive. Your walking the line with 36's. I always bring a "stub on hub" spare too in case the ring and pinion breaks & the shafts need to be pulled to drive home. Your user name may be applicable to your D30?

Say-Bye

Great feedback guys. I guess I can always give it a try and if it doesn't work out remove the locker. I had a 00 with an open 30 on 35" km1's years ago and gernaded the carrier. Pretty sure the spider gears failed then it snow balled. I blame that on a lack of skill and knowledge, to be old and wise you must first be young and dumb.

I def agree it's hard to wheel with a straight wheel and light foot. One or two shafts every few trips I can deal with. How often were u breaking them once you installed the locker? Also what gears were u running? And like mrshaft said once you change them a few times it's like clock work, but at the end of the day ur still burning ride time with the change outs.

andrewmp6

What gear ratio are you going to run ?

Fred/N0AZZ

Must be planning on 4.88's or 5.13 I would guess for a 36" tire.

Atmos

1 or 2 shafts every few trips? eff that. just run a reasonably sized tire on a well built dana 30. if you're seeing rocks, anything larger than a 35" tire will destroy your axle I've seen it way too many times. 35" tire is absolutely the max you can run and still wheel moderately hard without consistent carnage no ifs ands or buts. if you end up with 4.88 gears you will strip them

I never get why people try to run tires beyond their means. you're going to go everywhere on 35's that you would on 36's only without the breakage. so what's the point

mrshaft696

do you already have 36" tires? Seems like a weird choice if you don't have them sitting around. 35's are allot more common.

*The Dude*

http://www.ox-usa.com/products/54-am...uty-cover.html


U-joint problem solved.

CR-Snow

^those are pretty cool.

Wish I had more to offer on this convo but just gotta say, you guys that changing shafts out in 20 minutes on the trail are bad ***.

caged

yeah, with the locker, maybe every few trips out. but they break in the most inconvenient places. like on a hill in the rocks. i too got pretty quick at replacing shafts on the trail.

once i took the locker out. didn't break any more.

try it with the locker and the 760 joints. you should be fine for moderate wheeling.
but your 92 axle shafts only have the smaller 260 joints unless you have abs.

xjmarc

Unless you already have the spartan find a different locker. Mine broke on the 3rd ride and they do not stand behind their warranty. Mine is basically a really expensive mini spool now since welding it was the only way to make it actually lock up.
If you are who I think you are talk to Brian Lee, he runs 36s Irocs on his D30.

mrshaft696

haha those are awesome, I would never touch them at that price though, the good spicer replacements are expensive enough.

Desertfox1023

By the time you sink money into making a D30 last on 36's you could put a cast wedge HPD44 under your jeep on ford radius arms.

To humor your question however,

Run a strong tooth engagement on the pinion vs the perfect gear ratio.

I'd run 4.56's

Additionally the stock carrier can crack when put under the stress on a lunch box locker.

Run a Full Case Locker or keep it open

For the Shafts keep then stock but run 760x joints with full circle clips or tack the caps if you prefer.

This will make your 27 spline stock shafts the weak link. You should then be limited to just snapping shafts.


Now again, I went through this debate last year and found it was much more cost effect just to go with a HP44 that practically bolted right up...
This also address other things that fail like bearings and ballpoints.

Atmos

only problem I ever ran into beating on a lunchbox was shattering that weak cross shaft. the upgrade to titanium is worth it

don't run open on 35's or 36's. if you start roasting off a 1 tire fire and it suddenly grabs traction it's easy to imagine what will happen... running it locked and you'll have more control and less tire spinning. then it just comes down to controlling the lead foot



if I was building a D30 it would be 10 factory chromos, spicer 760 full circle, Yukon grizzly locker, 4.56 gears, and a stout diff cover and truss