Chrysler 8.25 27 spline to 29 spline conversion
#1
Chrysler 8.25 27 spline to 29 spline conversion
Hello I have a 95 Cherokee with the 27 spline Chrysler 8.25. I have heard that while a 27 spline is close in strength to a Dana 35, a 29 spline is closer in strength to a Dana 44. I'm running 33" tires right now with open diffs and want to beef up the axles to feel comfortable eventually running a lunchbox locker. I am also looking to get a regear this summer from 3.07s to 4.10s. While I'm in there, I thought it would be a good idea to convert the C8.25 to 29 spline. Is this possible? Is it worth it? Would I need anything besides new shafts and a new carrier for the conversion? I would get the new shafts from a junkyard 29 spline Chrysler 8.25, so could I also pull the carrier and use that? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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Year: 1996
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Hello I have a 95 Cherokee with the 27 spline Chrysler 8.25. I have heard that while a 27 spline is close in strength to a Dana 35, a 29 spline is closer in strength to a Dana 44. I'm running 33" tires right now with open diffs and want to beef up the axles to feel comfortable eventually running a lunchbox locker. I am also looking to get a regear this summer from 3.07s to 4.10s. While I'm in there, I thought it would be a good idea to convert the C8.25 to 29 spline. Is this possible? Is it worth it? Would I need anything besides new shafts and a new carrier for the conversion? I would get the new shafts from a junkyard 29 spline Chrysler 8.25, so could I also pull the carrier and use that? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
I have a 96 and was in the same boat as you with the 27 spline axles. I just went through and did an 29 spline axle swap when I did the rear disc conversion, regeared front and rear and locked both.
Just a few suggestions:
I don't think you will be happy with 4.10's on 33's. I am on 33's right now (will be moving up to 35's next year) on 4.88's and think that it is just about right. If you are going to go through the cost of regearing, no reason to go halfway.
Save up a bit more and go with a full-case locker instead of a lunchbox. That way you don't have to worry about which carrier your have AND you get the strength of a full case locker. I went with a Detroit in the rear and love it.
If you do happen to want to go to new rear axles, I put these in.
Revolution Axles
Regardless, as much as we all like to hurry and get new parts and gear on our jeep, nothing wastes more time and money than doing it halfway, then redoing it to what you really wanted later. Ask me how I know
#5
I have a 96 and was in the same boat as you with the 27 spline axles. I just went through and did an 29 spline axle swap when I did the rear disc conversion, regeared front and rear and locked both. Just a few suggestions: I don't think you will be happy with 4.10's on 33's. I am on 33's right now (will be moving up to 35's next year) on 4.88's and think that it is just about right. If you are going to go through the cost of regearing, no reason to go halfway. Save up a bit more and go with a full-case locker instead of a lunchbox. That way you don't have to worry about which carrier your have AND you get the strength of a full case locker. I went with a Detroit in the rear and love it. If you do happen to want to go to new rear axles, I put these in. Revolution Axles Regardless, as much as we all like to hurry and get new parts and gear on our jeep, nothing wastes more time and money than doing it halfway, then redoing it to what you really wanted later. Ask me how I know
Last edited by reidsorel; 10-18-2016 at 10:51 AM.
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Thanks so much for the great info! I will definitely consider this. Is the Detroit locker able to be engaged and disengaged, or is it locked 100% of the time? My XJ is my daily driver, so I'm wanting something I can flip on and off, like an ARB Air Locker or an OX Locker. Also, what did your rear disc conversion entail?
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A spool is locked 100% a locker can lock and unlock when it wants.A selectable locker like a arb and ox only lock when you flip a switch telling it to lock and unlock.To me i rather have a standard locker in the rear and a selectable locker in the front.The reason i say that is the front locked and in 4x4 can be a lil hard to turn but with a selectable locker you can unlock it and make it a little easier to turn.On a tight trail that comes in handy.
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A spool is locked 100% a locker can lock and unlock when it wants.A selectable locker like a arb and ox only lock when you flip a switch telling it to lock and unlock.To me i rather have a standard locker in the rear and a selectable locker in the front.The reason i say that is the front locked and in 4x4 can be a lil hard to turn but with a selectable locker you can unlock it and make it a little easier to turn.On a tight trail that comes in handy.
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Thanks so much for the great info! I will definitely consider this. Is the Detroit locker able to be engaged and disengaged, or is it locked 100% of the time? My XJ is my daily driver, so I'm wanting something I can flip on and off, like an ARB Air Locker or an OX Locker. Also, what did your rear disc conversion entail?
The Detroit is an auto locker and us unlocked in turns a spool is locked 100% of the time and it really is only a spool not any form of locker. I have driven for many years in a lot of different cars/trucks/SUV's using an auto locker for DD no problems all on the good side and a couple with spools that is no fun at all even in a light rain.
A selectable locker can be used in rear but most use them in the front.
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A Detroit only locks when you put power to it,If you let off the gas and coast it unlocks.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ekgBnktLw8k
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ekgBnktLw8k
Thanks for posting!
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Since he has 3.07s I assume he has a 5 speed so 4.10s would be just about perfect for 33s, 4.88s would be Hella deep and have the potential issue of the Dana 30 gears failing from not much contact, not likely but possible. Probably 4.56 would be perfect, but I agree on all other counts
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