Axle shaft strength
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c-clip and semi float are driven the axact same way. from the spider in the carrier. so being c-clip or semi-float shouldnt make one bit of difference, the axle doesnt know that its a clip, or bearing retainer holding it in.
1540 is only a slight difference to what the stock shaft is made up of, it is plain carbon steel. I believe it has a higher silicon content but Im not positive. I forget. If your gonna run a d35 than definitely find a good alloy steel, anything that begins in 4xxx.
1540 is only a slight difference to what the stock shaft is made up of, it is plain carbon steel. I believe it has a higher silicon content but Im not positive. I forget. If your gonna run a d35 than definitely find a good alloy steel, anything that begins in 4xxx.
The yield strength in psi for the axle steel I have found are:
1040 carbon steel = 106,000
1050 carbon steel = 146,000
1541H Alloy steel = 164,000
4340 Alloy steel = 210,000
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Sorry, but I don't know what 1540 is, I've never ran across 1540 shafts I have had 1040 carbon steel, 1050 carbon steel,1541H alloy steel, 4140 alloy steel, and 4340 alloy steel.
The yield strength in psi for the axle steel I have found are:
1040 carbon steel = 106,000
1050 carbon steel = 146,000
1541H Alloy steel = 164,000
4340 Alloy steel = 210,000
The yield strength in psi for the axle steel I have found are:
1040 carbon steel = 106,000
1050 carbon steel = 146,000
1541H Alloy steel = 164,000
4340 Alloy steel = 210,000
http://www.efunda.com/materials/allo...le=AISI%201541
But 1541h would be a high alloy steel. I went by what he posted, although now all I see for shafts are 1541H.
So thats a good comparison, as stock shafts should be 1040
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sorry, its 1541. The OP had 1540, and I was basically referencing the 15 part of the property, which is still a carbon steel. not an alloy.
http://www.efunda.com/materials/allo...le=AISI%201541
But 1541h would be a high alloy steel. I went by what he posted, although now all I see for shafts are 1541H.
So thats a good comparison, as stock shafts should be 1040
http://www.efunda.com/materials/allo...le=AISI%201541
But 1541h would be a high alloy steel. I went by what he posted, although now all I see for shafts are 1541H.
So thats a good comparison, as stock shafts should be 1040
Last edited by Rock Toy; 01-26-2012 at 07:25 PM.
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Thanks to all for the informatiojn and opinions. I have completed an order with Frank froim Serious off road for a set of Alloy USA axle shafts.
I know the hits against the d35. I hear you all that are saying it won't hold up, but... well I made this decision about the 35, and if I regret it, I will. But I think I'll be fine. Only time will tell.
John
I know the hits against the d35. I hear you all that are saying it won't hold up, but... well I made this decision about the 35, and if I regret it, I will. But I think I'll be fine. Only time will tell.
John
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Sorry, but I don't know what 1540 is, I've never ran across 1540 shafts I have had 1040 carbon steel, 1050 carbon steel,1541H alloy steel, 4140 alloy steel, and 4340 alloy steel.
The yield strength in psi for the axle steel I have found are:
1040 carbon steel = 106,000
1050 carbon steel = 146,000
1541H Alloy steel = 164,000
4340 Alloy steel = 210,000
The yield strength in psi for the axle steel I have found are:
1040 carbon steel = 106,000
1050 carbon steel = 146,000
1541H Alloy steel = 164,000
4340 Alloy steel = 210,000
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I'll admit when I'm wrong but that's what I was always told at driveline shops. Alloy will twist more and is good for semi float and chromo doesn't twist well and is good for full float. On a side note what's the difference in 4140 and 4340? I run 4340 front and rear and saw those you linked were 4140 and I'm not familiar with it. They claim the same 35% increase as 1540.
Their explanation was that what makes Chromo so much better is NOT that they twist less, but rather that once they twist, they return to original better. ALL shafts twists, but it is the return that matters. The less a shaft returns to original, the sooner it will break, as each time it twists, the farther away from original it is, the less twist it has to give before breaking.
This guy said that the Yukon guys basically said, when you get a brand new shaft, either draw a straight line with sharpie down it, or scribe one into the metal. Then check it periodically. When the ends of the line are twisted 90 degrees off, your shaft has no more return left and is about to snap. This guy started doing this and hadn't broken a shaft in a couple years because when the ends were 90 degrees off, he just yanked them and replaced them.
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As for ductility, or yielding, the harder a shaft is the less it yields. There is a range (called the elastic range) where the shaft with move but always to back to its original form. If you bend/twist it enough in moves into the Plastic Range. Plastic deformation is permanent and will not go back to its original form. As this happens the material actually gets harder (work hardening), but we all know that hard materials break/shear and soft/ductile materials bend. That is why you end up breaking a shaft after it bends/twists a certain amount. If you have any questions about this you can look it up in any Mechanics of Materials textbook or google it.
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Materials have different strengths in different planes. Tensile strength is determined but putting the shaft in tension or pulling on both ends. Axial strength is determined by rotating the shaft along its axis. They can be very different. For example, Concrete is very good in compression but very weak in tension.
As for ductility, or yielding, the harder a shaft is the less it yields. There is a range (called the elastic range) where the shaft with move but always to back to its original form. If you bend/twist it enough in moves into the Plastic Range. Plastic deformation is permanent and will not go back to its original form. As this happens the material actually gets harder (work hardening), but we all know that hard materials break/shear and soft/ductile materials bend. That is why you end up breaking a shaft after it bends/twists a certain amount. If you have any questions about this you can look it up in any Mechanics of Materials textbook or google it.
As for ductility, or yielding, the harder a shaft is the less it yields. There is a range (called the elastic range) where the shaft with move but always to back to its original form. If you bend/twist it enough in moves into the Plastic Range. Plastic deformation is permanent and will not go back to its original form. As this happens the material actually gets harder (work hardening), but we all know that hard materials break/shear and soft/ductile materials bend. That is why you end up breaking a shaft after it bends/twists a certain amount. If you have any questions about this you can look it up in any Mechanics of Materials textbook or google it.
your shafts should be made out of.
The tensile strength: in PSI
1040 = 120,000
1050 = 162,000
1541H = 181,000
4340 = 228,000
300M = 270,000
But here are the tensile strength ratings.
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Yeah, I know, I just didn't want to get into that. The yield strength I think is the best way to choose what material
your shafts should be made out of.
The tensile strength: in PSI
1040 = 120,000
1050 = 162,000
1541H = 181,000
4340 = 228,000
300M = 270,000
But here are the tensile strength ratings.
your shafts should be made out of.
The tensile strength: in PSI
1040 = 120,000
1050 = 162,000
1541H = 181,000
4340 = 228,000
300M = 270,000
But here are the tensile strength ratings.
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