karl4x4

I removed my automatic transmission out of my 1998 XJ to put in a NSG-370, NSG370 6 speed behind my stroked 4litre
The mechanics of it required a little fabrication and even shaping the hump a little to leave room for the transmission factory location of the CPS.
Cross member modified for trany and TC to sit 1" lower.
Park/neutral switch wired with the clutch (and bypass switch) so starter would turn over.
Was getting fault codes from the Transmission control. Disconnected the whole thing but now getting a fault cause the ECM is looking for it.

Anyone knows a way to "fool" the transmission control unit to think everything is all good? or stop the ECM to look for it.

I would like to avoid changing the ECM to a manual ECM.

EDIT: I figured it out: go directly to #15 for the solution. (so simple)
EDIT: somebody else's swap good write up http://baystatejeepers.proboards.com...ay&thread=3726

alpine.adrenaline

These guys are the only place I know of that managed to avoid the CE light turning on when the TCU was absent:
http://montanafab.com/products/
If nothing else you might be able to get a hold of someone there who could explain how they did it...

karl4x4

I contacted them. If/when I get an answer/solution, I will post it here for future Trany swappers.

razor02097

If you could post some more information about your swap I would greatly appreciate it! The thought of a 6 speed XJ made me drool a little...

jebmccall

any reason youre wanting to avoid a manual ecm???

karl4x4

Two reasons (maybe more)
Cost of buying one, the engine light is not enough of a nuisance to substenciate the expense. The engine runs flawlesly and I don't need to get it inspected. and I like a challenge. If I can figure it out I'm sure it will help some other people too.

karl4x4

I will when time permits. If there is something specific you would like to know, just ask.

may pop

The harness that has the solenoids has the VSS also? So leave the TCU in place and use the rest of the NSS harness to make the TCU think its in Park or Neutral. Might also have to jump the brake switch which turns off the torque converter lockup so it doesnt get the 740 code. Leaving as much in place will probably be the best way to go. Addressing the codes it puts out is the way to fool the computer all is normal.

may pop

Do you have a wiring diagram?

Ron

karl4x4

That's a great idea. Probably easier to fool the transmission control then the engine one. I wired the park/neutral switch with the clutch switch (now that code is gone). I don't get a code for the vss. (Good thing) I will try the brake switch thing or put a load on RCI letting it think its the torque converter. the and let you know how it goes. Im good with the diagram. Thanks for the help.

may pop

Which codes are you getting?

Ron

karl4x4

Ok, here are the codes I am getting right now.
P0700 Transmission control system (Its the only one I get when the TCU is disconnected)
P0753 Shift Solenoid A Electrical
P0743 Torque Converter Clutch solenoid electrical

The resistance test to see if the solenoids are serviceable is they have to measure 11-15Ohms.
I will try to get my hands on some high wattage resistors (at least 20W) and "simulate" those solenoids being connected.
Im guessing (hopping) no more other codes will pop up after that and the P0700 will go away.

More to follow as soon as I have those resistors in or someone recommends somethings that makes more sense.

may pop

Sounds like you are gettig rid of the codes. Good job.

Ron

karl4x4

Not going do do my victory dance yet. Resistors on order. Il update when installed pass or fail. Hopefully not a long wait... And success

karl4x4

OK. Update. took a while to get the proper resistors.
I wired 3 resistors to simulate the solenoids (x3) in the automatic transmission.
The engine light is now gone.

VICTORY










When I drive it for a couple tanks full, Ill give an update. May be a while.. gas is so pricy
PS: I love driving and not seeing that engine light...... (insert happy dance here).

Update: been driving a little over 1000km so far. The engine light is not back. I initially wrapped the resistors in a ziploc bag to keep them dry and see if they got hot (enough to melt plastic anyway) and there is no signs of heat in that area.
100% success in simulating an automatic transmission.

The pictures may not be best but if you have questions, just ask.