Martlor13

OME are 2 inch lift coil springs. You'll need spacers as well to level it unless you like rake

Mkeelingortega

So, you're saying the coil springs in the front with spacers and their leaf springs in the back?
Also, would you recommend the light, medium, or heavy duty for someone who is using their jeep as more of a DD?

salad

He's saying that you'd need a 1" spacer to maintain your 3" ride height.

Honestly RC coils aren't *that* terrible. The main problem is the leaf springs and the shackle angle. The shackles need to be at about a 45° angle, and all the leaf spring/shackle bolts tightened in a certain way.

Martlor13

Yeah the coils aren't bad like salad is saying if you want to replace something just replace your leaf springs with say rubicon express springs or rustys which a member here swears on and honestly I hear good things as well.

Martlor13

I'm curious. Is your ride terrible in the front and that is why you want to replace coils? Maybe your lower control arm angle is bad

Mkeelingortega

Honestly guys, I'm not really sure if its coming from the front or back. If I had to make a judgement, I would say its the back part of the lift, but I could be mistaken. I'm new to all of this! Just looking to get the best DD lift. I don't want to compromise on quality though. I'm willing to purchase OME as it seems like one of the safest bets. You're saying that you think if I replace the rear leaf springs and leave the front RC coils, the ride will improve significantly?

Martlor13

Well do you even like the lift? You could always just go to stock since a 2 inch lift like ome isn't much. I was gonna purchase ome 3 weeks ago but good friend of mine swayed me away for a bit with a killer deal on another, albeit cheaper lift. No complaints after I fixed some things. Gonna use the extra cash for bilsteins and some other fun stuff. How long has the rought country lift been on? And what is youright budget

NewKindOfClown

If you make sure things are torqued down according to specification, yes. There may be a short break-in period, but it's a much better leaf pack.

SG Mason

I would have to agree that the problem is most likely caused by the leaf springs. When I did my lift I used an AAD kit that put my shackles almost vertical. I fabbed up a set of shackle relocation brackets and it was like night and day.

Still want to get rid of the AAD pack and the DIY relocation brackets before winter. Seems like my XJ is in a constant state of evolving and improving

ljobbins

I have a 2" lift and I just went mild off-roading today and found a rock to flex out my suspension because I haven't done it yet after the lift. The front and back reached full lock without hitting the bump stops or fenders and the sway bar was disconnected and I unbolted the shocks for the flex. Is it just my stock control arms binding it up or could there be anything else? I want to make sure I can flex as much as possible before settling for less. I would also like the bump stops to be the pressure points when flexing instead of something else like the control arms. Thanks

NewKindOfClown

It's hard to say without inspecting your suspension while it's flexed. Key points to look for, aside from the shocks:
- Are the tops of your Lower Control Arms hitting the plate that the coil spring sits on?
- Are the brake lines being pulled tight?
- Are the Control Arms at angles that would cause misalignment in the bushings? That is to say, are the bolts in the CA bushings trying to twist because the arms are no longer parallel during flex?
- Are the shackles contacting anything in the rear?
- Are the rear springs compressing until they're flat?

ljobbins

ok thanks. it will probably be a while until i can check it all but that is good list of things to check next time.

Basslicks

Couple things to keep in mind when you lift your Jeep:

The front is going to be stiffer than factory ride unless you go long arms or control arm drop. Suspension geometry is the cause. Your control arms go from nearly a 0* angle in relation to the road (parallel) to almost a 30* angle in relation to the road (with a 3.5" lift, that is - considerably more, the higher up you go). This means that when the front wheels hit a bump at speed, the front axle has to travel on an arc - forward THEN up. When the arms are parellel to the ground (factory ride height), all they have to do is travel up. So with that in mind, ANY coils or shocks you put in are going to ride rougher without a change to the control arms.

As far as the rear goes, leaf packs have a break-in period. They will ride pretty stiff until the leaf pack settles under weight of the Jeep. Also, the longer a leaf is, the more "give" the spring is going to have. If the leaf pack is short (shackle at factory mounting location is straight up and down with the weight of the Jeep on it), it's not going to react to bumps as "quickly" as a longer pack (shackle at factory mounting location is at 45* angle). That being said, almost any leaf pack designed for lifting the rear of the Jeep is going to be a little stiffer at least - because there are generally more leafs in the pack and may or may not have a higher spring rate in order to provide the amount of lift.

kylemason

What are some good 31x10.5r15 A/T tires? Looking to get some after my 3" IRO lift and want to have something in mind before I call around.

Martlor13

BFG ko2 or general grabber at2