Drstrangelove

Coils- Skyjacker softride 3"
Love these, used coil spacers in the past, but these are just a dramatic difference in ride quality.
Shocks: Gabriel Gforce Ultra. Just your typical shock, getting RC Nitros soon enough.
Gas tank skid: fabricated by me.
33" BFG mud-terrains on 16" American racing wheels.
Full size spare carried when on the trail.
Back is sitting on a bastard pack and the same shocks as the front..
After the winter is over I'm extending my brake lines and lifting another inch.

Oh... And my whole interior is bed lined. Like a bed liner was sprayed all over.
I also am in the process of adding a steel subframe underneath.

phishy

Hey guys...quick question (yes i searched) but with a 3" lift and the bushwacker cut out flares can I fit 33"s without rubbing?

Tom95YJ

Yes but you need to extend your bumpstops and adjust your shock length. I ran 33's and 35's on 3.5"

phishy

I understand bump stops but I don't really have any knowledge on shocks or shock travel so I reckon I'll hunt down a thread to figure out what I need.

Tom95YJ

It's the lcg tips thread. There a lot of good info to read and take in

Marks2000XJ

I know this has probably been asked a million times but I am going to put it out here again. I picked up my Jeep today after having new gears installed. I put a Spartan locker in the front Dana 30. I actually installed it in the new carrier before having the shop install the gears.

Drove the Jeep to work after picking it up and the front differential sounds like it is crunching and popping really bad when I am turning. More than the usual ratcheting sound from lunch box lockers. I know I installed it right and the gap between the gears fell in spec.

Is there some kind of break in period for this Spartan locker or are they just really this noisy? Has anyone else had any trouble with a Spartan locker? Not real happy or impressed with it at the moment.

Gears seem to be alright. No howling from them thank goodness.

mr white

When you change the fluid after break in period for gears put some heavy stuff in there. I have 90w-140 full synthetic and the front is quiet.

hooverxj

i have a lifted k5 blazer with 36 super swampers i want to put them on the rims on my cherokee? with 36s on stock axles? and i asking for broken axkes?

NewKindOfClown

Pretty much, yes

Marks2000XJ

I drove it some more last night and it did not seem as bad. Making left turns is tolerable. Making slow right turns is where it sounds bad like something is binding up.

I got the install manual out and there is a piece of paper in there that says there is a slight break in period and louder than normal popping will be heard. I guess I will give it some time and see what happens.

Will definitely put the 90W-140 in when I change it out at 500 miles. I may pull the locker and grease it all up if it is still louder than "normal". Instructions did not say to do that but I saw a write up where the guy put that red thick grease all over his Spartan locker before install. I am sure that would help.

Drstrangelove

when in doubt- grease.

McCaffrey

Looking at some pictures the Spartan is the exact same design as an Aussie. My Aussie never broke-in. Heavier oil and grease didn't help either. The instructions are very clear on the pre-checks and setup which I followed. It did it's job of locking on the trails but I couldn't take the banging anymore and replaced it with a No-Slip.

Marks2000XJ

I started to go with the No Slip. If my Spartan never breaks in and keeps up with the noise I will pull it out and sell it for a bargain.

How do you like the No Slip as far as noise is concerned? Pretty quiet?

McCaffrey

That's what I did. I love the No Slip and have one in both front and rear now. Completely silent and works perfect. Just from looking at them the No Slip is more sophisticated on how it works. Of course there's a big price difference too.

I was at the point where I was going to pull the Aussie and just put the stock parts back and wheel open in the front.

xj guy

Just finished installing my 2" lift (weak I know). What should I keep an eye out for in the next week or two?

Should I just check all my torque specs and then get an alignment?

I have read a couple how to's on alignment changes. Do you guys prefer to do this yourself? or take it into the shop. I have never messed with any steering/suspension components outside of the lift and I know that I will end up doing this job by myself. Think I should try to tackle this one? Don't want to mess anything up.