davedude44

Getting ready to order the parts and just wanted to confirm the reading I have done.

I plan on going with the IRO SYE kit and getting the drill bit and tap with it. Anyone from experience know the quality of these items? Not sure if would be in best interest to just order from them or run to the hardware store and pick up my own.

http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merch...t_Code=IR-XHNT

Being a 97+ I do not need the flange for the sye install.

I have a d35 in the rear and have read conflicting statements regarding drive shaft length and if a front xj driveshaft will work for the 97+ 242 tcase and the d35 axle setup. Looking to hear from others experienced with this config what it was like for you.

I am sitting at about 3.5 inches of lift with a 2 inch shackle and s10/xj leaf pack. I have a 1.5 in tcase drop and 4 degree shims to correct the driveline angles currently but still get vibes. i have read that this tcase/axle config on the 97+ has a longer distance than the 231 which is why the vibes are more noticeable as well as the controversy over the xj front ds fitting properly.

my hope is i can do the sye and xj driveshaft and reshim for proper geometry to eliminate vibes and have the sye setup for a probable increase in lift height down the road.

Thanks

davedude44

ttt

kgm

Measure the two driveshafts!

Mine was just about 32" from end of output shaft to pinion yoke center.

I take it you are going to a Double cardan equipped driveshaft like a front DS? I imagine they will fit fine. But yeah, measure them. You can always drive around with the rear driveshaft removed for a bit while you track down the proper rear shaft.

davedude44

Thats what I was planning on. From doing some more reading it looks like the 242 with the d35 combo was giving people trouble using the xj front shaft due to it being short. Seems to work with the d44 or 8.25 but not the d35.

Any other common jy shafts people like to use for this conversion? Looks like are a couple zjs with slightly longer shafts. Im not sure on what length I will be looking for after the cut is made and yoke attached

Would rather not have it apart for a while if I can avoid it. Would rather be able to start and finish the job in one stint

davedude44

Forgot to clarify one thing. When the driveshaft goes in and the jeep is at normal suspension travel the slip should be at about half its travel correct? This way it has room for the suspension to compress and room for the suspension expand?

Or should it be closer to fully compressed?

Additionally is there any positive or negative effects of the output shaft length and how far the yoke is from the trans case? I know you want at least around an inch and a half of spline

Jamie57

I did the IRO Hack n tap and it was a world of difference. I had the 8.25 so I just used a front XJ driveshaft. Worked great.
Get the drill and tap. I found them to be of much better quality than some of the "off shore" crap everyone else sells.

davedude44

Yes thats what i stated that i was planning on doing in my first post..... Still looking for answers to a couple questions though.

If there are pros or cons for the length of the yoke and output shaft. I know you want at least around an inch and a half of spline.

When putting a drive shaft in how much slip should there be at a normal driving position to allow the suspension to compress and expand appropriately. right in the middle? more towards compressed?

If anyone else has this combo what what their measured length or a drive shaft that worked well for them. I have a pdf with a bunch of different shaft lengths. This kinda depends on how much of the output shaft i cut off too so knowing if are any benefits or negative impacts of being to short/too long is beneficial to know before hand

SteveMongr

With the stock rear drive shaft, 4 degree shims are likely to cause vibration. That much shim is usually for a double-cardan shaft with SYE.
...The bits from IRO are very good quality, I recommend using the 'drill jig' also, centering the hole by hand is tough.

I have done the 'Hack' twice.
1996 XJ AW4 242. 8.25
4.5" lift

My front shaft was 1/4" to long for the rear so I cut 1/4" off the yoke. Still had 2.5" of output spline from transfer case.
I would think a front shaft will work for you with the D35.
Would you like a measurement of the IRO yoke so you can measure what shaft you will need?