BrownXJ

As of now I have a rustys off-road 3 in lift new coils and full leaf in the back. I wish I would have gone with the 4.5in lift for only a little more... I'm thinking of 4.5-5 in of lift and 33s in the near future. I would go with so bushwackers so the 33s would fit. I'm thinking of a 1.5 or 2 in coil spacer and 1.5-2 in shackles is this a good idea? Also should I go 4.5 or 5 in? What are all the recommended extras like control arms..? I currently have the rough country track bar and steering stabilizer and a 1in TC drop. Thank you for the help!

aka"dude"

A SYE is a solid investment and will give you the security to have vibe free performance at any height. If you have a adjustable track bar go for 4.5". I just did a .75 spacer, shackles and a shackle relocation with little issue, but I did a SYE early on when I was only at a 3"s. Hope this helps. BTW with a good trim job with or without aftermarket flares you can fun 33's on 3"s of lift

andrewmp6

Honestly i would go long arm if you can swing the money.

Fred/N0AZZ

I an running 4 1/2" if lift with the Rustys 3" full leaf/coil package using Adj, Aluminum Spacers and a 1 1/2" Boomerang Shackle better flex than a 4 1/2" leaf. But be prepared to spend a lot more money. It cost me $3.5-4k to do the job properly using what I had already. Tires/Wheels/Shocks/Brake Lines/Adj. U/LCA's/Dbl. Adj. Track Bar/Steering/SYE/Driveshaft/Shims/Gears/Lockers/


This is a shortlist your could be more depending on what all you have replaced new already. I didn't buy junk parts nor the very top of the line for most.

Metmknice

ACOS up front, Shackle relocators in the rear, possibly longer shackle if necessary. Better than RC trackbar, sell or throw it away. IRO, RE, Clayton, Synergy etc. all good companies.

CAD brackes/adj. short arms, or long arms.
I personally do not like Bushcrackers, so either trim fenders/bumpstop correctly maybe add some Flexy flares if you need the coverage.
Hack n Tap at the least or a full SYE. (Ditch the TC drop)

Do not forget extended brake lines.

emptypockets

What are you trying to achieve? Going bigger costs more money and trust me, you're going to want to do it right. You can't just slap on spacers and shackles and call it good.

This was my rig at 3", running aftermarket lca, 3" bastard packs, and shackle relo's. I had it setup for max droop and it did great.


3" is cheap, effective, and allows you to do a lot of stuff off road. Enjoy your new lift and don't sweat going up in height until you can do it right.

BrownXJ

Thank you guys for the info thinking now about upgrading everything first before i think about the extra 2in... Upper and lower control arms what is my best bang for the buck..? Been looking online for some but $300 for adjustable seems like a lot to me? Is there any other options? Maybe fixed length for 5in? New RE trackbar has been ordered and leaning towards hack and tap kit.

BrownXJ

Not to sound completely dumb but what does ACOS stand for?

toasterknight

Adjustable COil Spacer.

Fred/N0AZZ

$300 isn't a lot for adj u/lca's not for all 4 of them about right mine were about $400. You don't want solid arms in case you change something they are what you do the adjustments with for the front end and set the pinion angle.


My advice stay at 3" till you have 3 G's or better to start with for the extra lift, or be ready for a lot of problems.

emptypockets

I ran fixed lowers and stock uppers before I went to my long arms. Brandonrcm is running the same, fixed lca/stock uca and gets great flex out of it. You can tell the difference stability wise if you were to ride in a short arm vs long arm equipped vehicle. Like I said though, I ran that way for many years and it worked. I would stick with the proper lca length for your lift height though. You can find that info with a google search.

Kind of wish you would of asked about your track bar choice before hand. I don't like the RE1600 track bars. The tubing is thin and the single shear heim joint at the unibody is sketch. Not to mention the way the heim is positioned isn't very conducive to droop and you're still working with the same limitations as a tie rod end. A better bet would of been a double shear setup like IRO offers: http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/10215.html

You honestly shouldn't need a SYE at your height. I would worry more about armor for your underside if you plan on wheeling your XJ. Just my 2 pennies in the matter.

BrownXJ

That sounds a lot cheaper! Thank you and I just canceled the order for the RE Track bar and ordered the IRO