33s vs 35s tires
10-05-2011, 09:15 PM
#16
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Year: 92
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I have a 96 jeep Cherokee 5spd manual.
4.5 in long arm lift
4.56 gears
Aussie locker up front
Detroit in the rear
I plan on using my jeep for the Rubicon and fordyce and Barrett lake and all those fun places but I also plan on my jeep being my daily driver for years to come ( although my daily driving doesnt add up to much more then 100-200 miles a month )
I want to get km 2s I think. but I'm open to bfg a/ts if someone can convince me there just as capable and longer lasting.
33s tuck perfect as is.
if I go to 35s which I'm considering.
I'd have to tub the rear.. or bumpstops or somethin.
so with all that said what would you guys recommend
4.5 in long arm lift
4.56 gears
Aussie locker up front
Detroit in the rear
I plan on using my jeep for the Rubicon and fordyce and Barrett lake and all those fun places but I also plan on my jeep being my daily driver for years to come ( although my daily driving doesnt add up to much more then 100-200 miles a month )
I want to get km 2s I think. but I'm open to bfg a/ts if someone can convince me there just as capable and longer lasting.
33s tuck perfect as is.
if I go to 35s which I'm considering.
I'd have to tub the rear.. or bumpstops or somethin.
so with all that said what would you guys recommend
and i'd go with KM's over A/T's. the KM's wont last quite as long as the A/t's, but you will love them offroad compared to the a/t's
but, be prepared, you should also beef up your steering, brakes, and front shafts when running 35's
10-05-2011, 09:47 PM
#18
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i have 35's runnin on 4.56 gears, love them. get decent gas milage on the freeway (18 on a good day, usually about 16 or so) and about 13-15 out in town. the KM2's are a pretty light tire, and are a great all around wheelin tire. i still run stock shafts up front on my dana 30, but i always carry spares. i have ORO U-Turn steering up front and sloted rotors with HPS Hawk pads. in the process of doing the grand cherokee 12" brakes up front
10-05-2011, 09:55 PM
#19
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Year: 1996
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ya everything is already beefed up currie steering roughcountry trck bar
and the guy i bought the jeep from said the shafts were upgraded but idk how to tell who made them or what there made out of. esp without tearing it all apart. and i just did front rotor upgrades to ATE premium ones.
well if i do decide to go 35s..
tubbing is my only option as far as i see it...
that seems like a scary type of job to me
if you cut wrong things can get a lot trickier..
anyone know of any good write ups ive seen the one in the tech write ups here on cf.
and the guy i bought the jeep from said the shafts were upgraded but idk how to tell who made them or what there made out of. esp without tearing it all apart. and i just did front rotor upgrades to ATE premium ones.
well if i do decide to go 35s..
tubbing is my only option as far as i see it...
that seems like a scary type of job to me
if you cut wrong things can get a lot trickier..
anyone know of any good write ups ive seen the one in the tech write ups here on cf.
10-05-2011, 09:57 PM
#20
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Year: 92
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by 96rokee
ya everything is already beefed up currie steering roughcountry trck bar
and the guy i bought the jeep from said the shafts were upgraded but idk how to tell who made them or what there made out of. esp without tearing it all apart. and i just did front rotor upgrades to ATE premium ones.
well if i do decide to go 35s..
tubbing is my only option as far as i see it...
that seems like a scary type of job to me
if you cut wrong things can get a lot trickier..
anyone know of any good write ups ive seen the one in the tech write ups here on cf.
and the guy i bought the jeep from said the shafts were upgraded but idk how to tell who made them or what there made out of. esp without tearing it all apart. and i just did front rotor upgrades to ATE premium ones.
well if i do decide to go 35s..
tubbing is my only option as far as i see it...
that seems like a scary type of job to me
if you cut wrong things can get a lot trickier..
anyone know of any good write ups ive seen the one in the tech write ups here on cf.
10-05-2011, 10:40 PM
#21
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10-05-2011, 10:56 PM
#23
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As far as how things have gone for me... If i consider a bigger tire, I will start to feel the NEED for that bigger tire.
I would go with 35's now. I love 35's perfect tire size for me. 33's where not enough.
I would go with 35's now. I love 35's perfect tire size for me. 33's where not enough.
10-05-2011, 11:10 PM
#24
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Year: 92
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i loved the 33's on my last XJ, and even the 32's i had on this XJ before. but, with the type of wheeling i want to do, 35's are my best option. and im loving them
10-06-2011, 01:36 AM
#25
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Year: 2001
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33 to a 35 really isn't a whole hell of a lot of differece...when I replace my 33s I'll go with 37s...Its a marginal upgrade from 33s to 35s, not worth it IMHO....
10-06-2011, 07:48 AM
#26
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Year: 94
Model: Cherokee
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Any idea how many rpms I'll drop by switching to 33's or 35's with 4.56 gears and an ax-15? I'm on 32's now at 2100 rpms at 65.
10-06-2011, 02:41 PM
#28
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Year: 1993
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65x4.56x336x.79/32 = 2459 rpms , are you sure your speedo is correct? I did the formula and came out with a much higher rpm than you stated at 65mph with 32s.
65x4.56x336x.79/35 = 2248 rpms 35s at 65mph.
10-06-2011, 03:03 PM
#30
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um, you certainly dont need to tub it to run 35's. I run 35" km2's on 4.5" lift. works great. the tires work awesome and even aired down i have good axle clearance.
locked 30/8.25, no problems going easy, well semi easy.
Good combo though. I like it a lot.
dont be afraid to trim.
locked 30/8.25, no problems going easy, well semi easy.
Good combo though. I like it a lot.
dont be afraid to trim.