3" RC kit added and 1.75 coil spacers on top ok??
#16
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Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
I actually really like the http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/10117.html that you recommended seems much much better then the RC one and the are almost the same price I am assuming I should just to order it , so I don't need a bracket? I really want to go as cheap as possible and it seems the iron rock is the my best option for quality
#17
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Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
If you're on the Android app go to your profile and tap the place where your profile pic goes and it says add attachment, then choose a picture from gallery or take one with camera
#18
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Year: 1988
Model: Comanche
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Bottom right when I first got towed home after it sitting for 10 years, bottom left is first time smog right after i got it to start, and then 3 in lift new tires, grill guard and lights
#19
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Same exact one I have, bolts right up without a bracket, their shipping costs can be kinda high sometimes but they have free shipping codes now and again if you check their Instagram account. Another thing to look out for is your gonna want a pickle fork tie rod end separator, you can rent the tool at auto zone, also you might need a sawzall to get the axle side bolt out mine was seized in the bushing and was a total PITA luckily they send new hardware with the track bar, but overall great product and great company
#20
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Year: 1988
Model: Comanche
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what do you guys think of the rugged ridge relocation bracket or should I just drill a new hole and move it about 3/4 of an inch for location, I cant really afford a track bar so I was hoping this would be ok for now
#21
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people frown upon drilling the hole. I did it. And the 3/4 still didn't center my axle in the middle. It sticks to one side about a half inch. It's not noticeable but I can see it every time I look at my jeep. I'm buying a track bar and welding a new plate that had the extra hole. It weakens it and makes it unsafe. I drive mine very little. A mile here and there. So I'm not to worried about it. I wouldn't get on the high way with it.
#22
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Year: 1993
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Honestly if I were I'd just trim the fenders a little bit and wait until I could afford to do the rest of the lift right, if that track bar bracket doesnt hold your insurance bill is going to be a lot more than a new track bar
#24
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I've been running a track bar relocation bracket (skyjacker iirc) for over a year. I can run down the highway at 85mph and everything feels solid. I have over a dozen wheeling trips on it. Just retorque every oil change or whenever else your down there. You can feel it when the bolts loosen up. It's not perfect, but for $20 it's a great solution to hold you over until you can get an adjustable.
#25
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I've been running a track bar relocation bracket (skyjacker iirc) for over a year. I can run down the highway at 85mph and everything feels solid. I have over a dozen wheeling trips on it. Just retorque every oil change or whenever else your down there. You can feel it when the bolts loosen up. It's not perfect, but for $20 it's a great solution to hold you over until you can get an adjustable.
#26
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Year: 1988
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0
I've been running a track bar relocation bracket (skyjacker iirc) for over a year. I can run down the highway at 85mph and everything feels solid. I have over a dozen wheeling trips on it. Just retorque every oil change or whenever else your down there. You can feel it when the bolts loosen up. It's not perfect, but for $20 it's a great solution to hold you over until you can get an adjustable.
#27
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Year: 1999
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awesome thank you! that's exactly what I was looking for, ill look it up now and ill just order it so i can get a move on this thing. I put a 3 inch RC kit and my fenders definitely did not clear and bot got dented so I ordered the 1.75 coil spacers shackles transfer case drop kit and what ever else I needed for the rest of the 1.5 upgrade, how important is the sye can i replace it when it goes bad?
Your about to find out how important both of these are with almost 5" of lift very quickly.
#28
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
An SYE is a modification to the transfer case. They are necessary on XJs, MJs, and TJs above a certain height because the OEM design experiences rear driveline vibrations when lifted above a certain height. Usually that is around 4 inches, give or take. I am running the same 3 inch RC lift you are and have 1 inch coil spacers up front and shackle relocation brackets in the rear, so just over an additional inch in the rear.
At the 4 inches of lift I am at, I do not experience any vibes and I do not have an SYE nor a transfer case drop. So I think you should be good to go with just a transfer case drop since you are right in the area where you might need and SYE and you might not. Try the transfer case drop first, and if you notice some funky vibrations coming from the rear driveshaft where it meets the transfer case then it's time for an SYE.
At the 4 inches of lift I am at, I do not experience any vibes and I do not have an SYE nor a transfer case drop. So I think you should be good to go with just a transfer case drop since you are right in the area where you might need and SYE and you might not. Try the transfer case drop first, and if you notice some funky vibrations coming from the rear driveshaft where it meets the transfer case then it's time for an SYE.
#29
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Year: 1988
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0
An SYE is a modification to the transfer case. They are necessary on XJs, MJs, and TJs above a certain height because the OEM design experiences rear driveline vibrations when lifted above a certain height. Usually that is around 4 inches, give or take. I am running the same 3 inch RC lift you are and have 1 inch coil spacers up front and shackle relocation brackets in the rear, so just over an additional inch in the rear.
At the 4 inches of lift I am at, I do not experience any vibes and I do not have an SYE nor a transfer case drop. So I think you should be good to go with just a transfer case drop since you are right in the area where you might need and SYE and you might not. Try the transfer case drop first, and if you notice some funky vibrations coming from the rear driveshaft where it meets the transfer case then it's time for an SYE.
At the 4 inches of lift I am at, I do not experience any vibes and I do not have an SYE nor a transfer case drop. So I think you should be good to go with just a transfer case drop since you are right in the area where you might need and SYE and you might not. Try the transfer case drop first, and if you notice some funky vibrations coming from the rear driveshaft where it meets the transfer case then it's time for an SYE.
thaanks guys
#30
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Year: 1988
Model: Comanche
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Same exact one I have, bolts right up without a bracket, their shipping costs can be kinda high sometimes but they have free shipping codes now and again if you check their Instagram account. Another thing to look out for is your gonna want a pickle fork tie rod end separator, you can rent the tool at auto zone, also you might need a sawzall to get the axle side bolt out mine was seized in the bushing and was a total PITA luckily they send new hardware with the track bar, but overall great product and great company
I ordered it I want to get this right but just wanted to say thank you for helping me find the right track bar took forever and still came back to this one.
Thanks again
david