CobraMarty

Yeah it's a mix mash of different parts.

The calipers for the 350mm rotors (14"GC) are used with Mustang 13" rotors.
The calipers for the 330mm rotors (13"GC) are used with Ford 12" Sport Trac rotors.

Can't use the GC rotors as they have a different bolt pattern and hat height.

SReillyH

I'm looking to do the same upgrade. Although I'm not quite understanding the need for all the 14mm washers. OP states 12 washers, with 2 washers for spacers per mounting bolt, but only 2 mounting bolts per caliper... totaling 8 washers needed. Correct? Leaving 4 extra. Are those 4 extra washers used in any other location?And I'm assuming the washers fit between the caliper bracket and the knuckle to space them correctly on the rotor. And that is for use with the shorter 99.5+ hubs. No spacing out of the hubs is needed, correct? Only some grinding on the outside edge of hub for rotor to sit flush.

Apologies to repeat anything. I read the entire post and just wanted to clarify these things. Appreciate the assistance.

CobraMarty

2 washers are used as spacers for the caliper to bracket. 8 total.
1 washer used on each mounting bolt head. 4 total.

CobraMarty

-12-24x Spacer Washers 14mm 10.9 steel zinc plated
2=0.18” thick -late 99.5+ Unit Bearings
4=0.36” thick –early pre-’99 Unit Bearing
-4x washers 14mm 10.9 steel zinc plated

SReillyH

Wow... that was a smooth.. I totally spaced on putting washers on the mounting bolt heads. I was more focused on the spacers between the caliper and knuckle.

Thanks for the clarification and apologies on my boneheaded mistake.

SReillyH

This may seem like another easy question, but with the mounting bolts, do you suggest using a fully threaded bolt? Or will a partially threaded one work just fine? Seeing as I don't have the parts in front of me I can't tell what would be the best option and/or if I would bottom out the bolt because of lack of thread. Any input would be great. Thanks.

CobraMarty

I think the partially threaded bolts work.
I will check tomorrow when I get home.
Length is more critical.

Threaded bolts, 45mm length, for the 15" wheel, and partially threaded for the 17" wheel kit. <-- now corrected

SReillyH

Ok, thanks for that clarification.

However, when looking for 14x1.5mm hex bolts on bolt depot, the partially threaded ones start at 50mm. There is no 45mm option. Is there any issue with that? Will the extra 5mm cause any interferance.

Thanks for the input.

CobraMarty

Oops, for the 15" wheel kit, I did use the fully threaded 45mm bolts.
Thanks for making me look again. I corrected above.

SReillyH

Awesome. Thanks. I went to Fastenal in my area instead or ordering online. Just waiting for parts to arrive now from Rock Auto. Really looking forward to doing this. I'm the guinea pig for my wheeling group so if this works, they will probably follow suit soon after.

I'll hit you up with any more questions.

Jamie57

What are the advantages of using this bleeder?
Is there a check valve in the screw so fluid only goes one way?
I can't seem to find anything on this even on Dorman's own site.

LACK

Exactly, they have a check ball and spring that prevents air from being able to re-enter the system.

They work pretty well. Makes it possible to bleed the brakes by yourself.

Jamie57

Thanks. That's what I thought. Too bad they only come in metric. I'd love to change over my fleet!

CobraMarty

The easy bleeders come in about 8-10 different varieties, American and Metric.

Jamie57

That's great! Why can I not find any info on them then?
My Google Fu is not working!

Edit Dorman shows 9 different "Quick Bleeders" none of which supposedly fit my 99 Dodge Ram 1500 Pickup but will fit a 99 Dodge Ran 1500 van. WTF?
And XJ has Liberty rear discs with soon to be your Big Brake kit Durango or GC calipers ,
and my 2000 WJ now has the 2003 Akebono front calipers and stock rear calipers.
Been using this page http://www.dormanproducts.com/gsearc...speed-bleeders
but I'm not getting any joy!